'93 Lumina Euro - slow heater

I have a '93 Lumina Euro. The heat works, but must run the car about 25 minutes before it kicks in. Then, the air gets cooler again after a while of running. Can this be fixed?
I don't have any mechanical experience, but I'm very intuitive. Is it something I could tackle?

Thanks!

There is a bleeder screw on the little "tower" above the water pump. Open it while the motor is hot and running. No air should come out, just coolant. If you get bubbles, refill the radiator with the screw open. If there doesn't seem to be any air in the system, your thermostat is most likely bad. It is in the housing where the radiator hose meets the motor, on the driver's side top of the motor. Make sure you install it with the element facing into the motor, and bleed the system when you refill it.

You may or may not have a bleeder on the thermostat housing too. I don't remember on the '93.

Could you tell me what I might expect to pay for this to be fixed? Thanks for your help!

Could you tell me what I might expect to pay for this to be fixed? Thanks for your help!

I'd say do it yourself, A thermostat and gasket are around $10, take you an hour or less to do it.

If not, I'd say 1 hour labor + customer cost on part, probably $75-$90.

It's a two bolt job. (and one hose clamp) We can walk you through it if you want.

I'd appreciate a walk thru. As I said, I've never tampered mechanically. It sounds as if I need to drain the radiator?

No, not really, the stat is up pretty high in the cooloing system, so you won't loose very much.

I'll get back to you shortly with more info.

OK, first, remove the engine from the car.



Just kidding:iceslolan

It's been a while since I did a stat on one of these, forgot how tight it is.

You're gonna want to take the top hose off the stat housing neck, mine still has the OE clamp you just pinch with pliers. Yours may have a screw clamp.


http://images5.theimagehosting.com/tstat1.1.JPG

Looking under where the throttle plate is, you follow that neck down to the housing (it's all one piece). There are 2 bolts, one top, one bottom. You'll have to work them from the backside, and the bottom one will be by feel.


http://images5.theimagehosting.com/tstat2.JPG


Once you have them out, the housing will come off with a little force, usually stuck on somewhat. I usually just put a screwdriver handle in the neck and rock it a little. If it really puts up a fight, make sure yours doesn't have three bolts, then soak it with some WD-40 along the seam where it joins the motor. After a few minutes, it should seperate pretty easy. We just don't want to crack the neck, it's aluminum.

The stat will probably stick in the opening in the intake. If so, pry it out with a screwdriver.

I don't remember if these use a gasket or an o-ring. If gasket, make sure both the housing and the intake side are clean of old gasket, use something to scrape it clean, but try not to gouge the aluminum. It is soft, and deep gouges will cause leaks.

If o-ring type, that makes it easy, just put the ring around the new stat, and push it into the hole in the motor. It will usually stay there by itself. Just make sure the side with the spring go into the motor. Otherwise, it won't sense the water's heat, and the car will overheat without the stat ever opening.

If gasket type, I like to put a thin film of sealer on both surfaces with my finger, then push the stat into the hole. A little sealer (very little) around the hole will keep it in place while you put the housing back on.

Make sure as you tighten the bolts that the stat still seems properly in the hole. If it drop down a little out of it's groove it sits in, it will leak and the housing may crack when you tighten it up.

Reattach your hose. Open the bleeder screw(s) and fill the radiator. When full, and coolant comes out the bleeder, close bleeder and cap the radiator. Start car and let idle for about 5 min., watching the temp gauge while it runs. Shut it off, and open the bleeder slightly. If no coolant comes out, open the cap and top off coolant. Repeat until the system seems to be unable to take any more coolant without it coming out the bleeder. Then let the motor run and watch the gauge. When your fan comes on, you are done. If it doesn't, watch the gauge as you drive it around some. If there is air in the system, the temp will "spike" fast, shut it down if this happens. Take coolant and a wrench for the bleeder with you.

http://images5.theimagehosting.com/3.1.2.jpg

The other bleeder is at the top of that little black tower coming up from the water pump, that the smaller heater hose goes to.

It's usually not that difficult to bleed these, but just giving you extra info in case.

OK, first, remove the engine from the car.



OK, engine's out...now what?


Just kidding! Thanks for your help. I think I'll give it a shot.