Boost Controllers

Can someone please explain to me how excactly manual and electronic boost controllers work, I know they regulate the wastegate, but what parts do i excactly need and which brand would you recomend. Thanks

The wastegate opens based on boost pressure depending on the spring rate inside it.
A 10 psi spring in the WG will open the WG at 10 psi and hold your boost steady.

A manual boost controller (typically a ball and spring) just adds restricition to the vac line feeding the wastegate. The more pressure required to move the restriction, the more boost you are going to run. So if you have a 10 psi spring in your WG and you put a MBC in the way and set it at 15 psi ... the WG never sees the boost until it hits 15 psi.

The EBCs work the same way except they use a solenoid (or two) to impede the boost flow to the wastegate.

I highly recommend the Blitz Dual Solenoid unit (BLitz DSBC).

hey jeff what would happen if we upped the boost a couple of PSI on a stock engine, kept it just under the fuel cut.

i don't want to do anything to this engine, most stuff can wait till the new one, but i don't think it takes much to up the boost by just a couple of psi, so it might be worth it. i can't raise it much or i have to deal with the fuel cut.

Stock boost is 7 ~ 11.8 psi.
Fuel Cut is 12 psi.
There isn't really any room to up it.

The most boost I would recommend running on the CT26 is 15 psi. Under no circumstance would I go over that.

I race at 24.5 psi on the stock engine, but I amtuned for it, use race fuel and water injection.

What about being tuned for per say 17psi, will the stock turbo hold up? Thats what they say in here anyway. http://www.mrcontrols.com/primers/power.htm

Where does it say on there that the stock turbo will hold up to 17 psi? I think you should reread that article a bit more carefully.

It does say "With the addition of three simple, inexpensive devices, this can be safely increased to 15psi for a gain of nearly 10rwhp per additional pound of boost."
and
"After doing this, you can expect to be producing approximately 200rwhp. First, you need an accurate boost gauge to be sure that you are not boosting above 15psi."

It does not matter what you do to the engine or anything else, the CT26 is out of it's efficieny range above 15 psi; therefore, you are drastically increasing risk for very little gain in power.
It's not worth it. If you want big power and you want big boost, you need a bigger turbo.

It says you can take the CT26 up to 16 psi with a larger intercooler not 17 i made a mistake.

You might notice that it says you might see another 5 rwhp.

You might notice that I said above:
"you are drastically increasing risk for very little gain in power."

:)

i'm with Jeff, i wouldn't want to go above 15 on the stock turbo, it's ceramic, put too much load on it and you'll hear the blades make their way down your exaust with a puff of black smoke... game over. not worth it for minimal gains...

lol true , i only thought it was ceramic everywhere but the US

The CT20B is, not our CT26's

mmm so you guys got steel turbines in the ct26? like the us supra?

how does the boost controller work witha 4agze supercharger...basically the sam way right...i know how on a turbo it works but i have little to no exp w a supercharger

As far as I know, the amount of boost from a supercharger is fixed, not adjustable.

If you want more boost from a supercharger, you need to get a different pulley for it.

yeah i knew that but the only thing i didnt get is why a gyuy w an ae 86 rolla w a 4agze had a boost controller on it...meh it coulda been a turbo timer w an lcd screen but im not sure

haha im using ta 4agze tat i got and putting the head from my 4afe on it

ima have a 4afze...w my near stock ecu running stock boost on the supercahrger...haha

how much boost did the 4agze supercharger run stock?

It could have been a turbo timer as you said or it could be a twin-charged engine that has both a turbo- and a supercharger.

nvm it runs 12 psi stock....its outta a levine ae 101

8psi - usdm sw11-140mm
10psi-JDM sw11-125mm
12psi-jdm ae101-106mm

why are you changing to an FE head? FE is the economy head, GE is the sports head.

naw it was just a 4agze with new pistons and a pully upagrade...im thinkin it was his safc gfuel controller

haha im gunna be screwed, i dont know itf my 4afe ecu can handle the supercharger and the bigger injectors


im using the F head from my 4afe (if you dont knwo why goto the celica section) long story short its got smooth and short intake ports that allow awsome amoutns of tourqe...im only expecting a loss of 5-10% of HP and a gain of about 20% in tourque...

anyway yeah im not thinkin my ecu can handle the supercharger...and im using the 4agze injectors and fuel pump...ima buy a fuel controller and see if that helps

i dont liek the fact taht th emotor only has abotu 120 TQ i want at least 160...witch im hoping i will have with the head swap...honestly the f head is not as bad as everyone thinks

So if we say that 15psi is our maximum, and Jeff has recommended the blitz DSBC, an accurate boost meter to keep a check on things, what parts are recommended to get around fuel cut to get to 15psi?

so how's it rev?

pureadrenalin, you can eliminate fuel cut for free buy pluggin up the vac line to the OEM MAP sensor.
This will also disable the worthless factory boost gauge.

If you want fuel cut protection, you can buy the HKS FCD and raise fuel cut to 17.8 psi.