Window masking + panel line washing

I’ve been having some real trouble with a few tasks I was doing last night. The first is with tamiya masking tape. No matter how I put this stuff down it always leaks. My process is that I apply the tape, press down and seal with finger nail, if required cut on the model for window frames etc by tracing a line using a toothpick, remove cut tape and reseal. I then paint a first coat of paint, then wait for it to dry and add a second coat, then 5 mins later remove the tape. But it never gives a decent line and looks jiggered or even paint has gone under the tape. Does this tape not work well, or have I used it incorrectly? Reading P-Man guide for window masking what I did should work but I did something wrong. Any ideas?

The second problem I’m having is with panel line washing. I mixed a wash of 2 parts red, 1 black and 10 thinner to create a thin wash. It was VERY thin and looked a very dark red. Superb, until I tried to apply it. I used a 0.3 pointed brush, placed the brush in the wash, and then placed the brush tip onto the model at the top of the panel line. It did nothing, just sit on the paint, so I tried again on another panel line and it moved down the line but there were paint wash marks. I used a cloth to remove the excess, but this is where the problem is. It’s a nice panel line, but after I removed the excess wash, the car has a raised edge line next to the panel. The wiping of the wash has also removed some of the paint. I can see a visible white line where this is primer. Not happy..!! But I did something wrong but I don’t know what. The car is coated with TS spray, no clear coat. Polished using Micro Mesh, no wax. Should I have done the panel lines BEFORE polishing with Micro Mesh?

Not a lot I can do about the white line, it’s either there for good, or I try and patch it. Not sure if I can do that. TBH I was expecting some errors as this is a first build, and if you didn’t know it was there you wouldn’t see it anyway, as it’s right down the on the bottom side skirt of the car body, thankfully..!!

Last question, I’ve brought some MicroScale crystal clear fix. It looks like a white wood glue. I’ve painted my windscreen wipers black, and need to mount to the actual clear windscreen. Does this glue sit on the top of paint, or will it melt through? Would it be safe to add a small drop of this glue to the underside of the wiper then mount on the windscreen? Do I have to remove the paint first, as this will be IMPOSSIBLE for the rear lights and front light clear covers, but possible for the wipers (if I’m careful). The body is a 360 modena and I would never get the paint off the front mounts for the front light covers.

Many Thanks. Still learning..!! But one day I will get there.

Huh, this is where practice work best. You have the theory but when you do it it is totaly different. Well let's start. Tamiya masking tape is the best you will find (no better tape than this). You didn't write do you spray or brush paint on? If you spray then you should do few very light coats of colour (just to see paint on the tape) then wait for 10 min. and then apply heavier coat. If you are doing it with brush it is little trickier, the paint should be little bit harder (not thined) and you should carefully go from the edge of the tape with not to much paint on brush. This is very hard and long job affter which you will still have some spill going under the tape, you can still clean that with Q-stick and some thinner on it or careffuly remove it with tooth pick. As for panel lines you simply have to add more thinner if you are using acrylic paints add small amount of liquid soap and if you are working with enemals (I prefer them for this job) just delute them more, you should have dirty thinner and not deluted colour.
As for the paint job first do painting then panel lines and then polish because that way you will polish the body and clear panel lines in same time, but if you had to sand paint that went out of panel lines then your wash was definitly to thick because I simply wipe all of the colour that went out of panel line with my finger just affter I did a line and then just polish it a bit to make it shinny again. You can apply clear glue over the paint it will not eat through paint and when dry it won't be white no more.

Last question, I’ve brought some MicroScale crystal clear fix. It looks like a white wood glue. I’ve painted my windscreen wipers black, and need to mount to the actual clear windscreen. Does this glue sit on the top of paint, or will it melt through? Would it be safe to add a small drop of this glue to the underside of the wiper then mount on the windscreen? Do I have to remove the paint first, as this will be IMPOSSIBLE for the rear lights and front light clear covers, but possible for the wipers (if I’m careful). The body is a 360 modena and I would never get the paint off the front mounts for the front light covers.

This glue drys totally transparent.
Apply small drop of MSCC with a cocktail stick to the wiper blade and mounting hole and then use a small strip of Tamiya masking tape to hold in place till it drys.
MSCC does not affect and paints at all and can be peeled off if you chose later, No need to scrape off anything, I use this for attaching door mirrors, wings, all clear (glass) parts and even for test assembly of parts.

Thanks for the replies. I guess it is just practice. I did think when I was polishing the body should I apply the panel line wash now. I take it my wash wasn’t thin enough. Another lesson learnt. I’ll thin it even more next time.

As for the masking, I did brush paint as I was not confident enough to spray the window frames. I did learn that using a toothpick I could pick at the paint in attempts to make it look better. That did work out well enough to save the car body, apart from the white primer line right at the bottom. That will just have to stay as is now. Next time I’ll try the spray option. Sounds like I have the theory correct, just my technique is bad. Was a first attempt though, so shouldn’t feel bad about it, just learn from it.

As for the glue. Great news. This should make getting all the parts for the body attached without too much trouble, as if it doesn’t attack paint this will help. I take it the join will not be very strong though? Just enough to hold the parts in place. A case of when the model is completed, look but don’t touch.

I also take it the glue is water-soluble. Water washes it away?

I will also get some Q-Tips, as I’ve been using cotton bud sticks, and they are a little thick. Not sure where to get them in the UK. www.google.co.uk search coming up..!!

Thanks all, I’m learning loads..!! by my fifth model it should be a right masterpiece instead of a model with a cumulative collection of errors..!!

I also take it the glue is water-soluble. Water washes it away?
Yes it is :)


I will also get some Q-Tips, as I’ve been using cotton bud sticks, and they are a little thick. Not sure where to get them in the UK.


Q-Tip is just a US brand name (http://www.qtips.com/history.html) , they are the same as Cotton Bud Sticks. I get mine from Aldi/Lidl about 0.39 pence/100

I think I must have got 'beginners luck'! I followed Primeraman's how to for 'Window Seals' and Alex Kustov's 'Window Frame' technique and can't believe how well it turned out. I'm only on my second model but have been REALLY patient with this one as I want it to be better than my first attempt.

You MUST use Tamiya tape, I have 10mm & 40mm and both were used. 10mm on the window seals & 40mm on the window masks.

Both window and body (seals) were painted with a tin of Humbrol enamel I had (don't know if its 'politically' correct to do this but it worked out fine). I painted 2 coats carefully & then left the paint for about 1 hour. While it was still tacky I carefully, I mean very carefully, removed the masking tape. I had one small section of bleed (where I obviously didn't burnish well enough) but that was all. For a novice like myself I was pretty chuffed.

Who's to say it will go on so well the next time.

P.S. I painted the seals before I lay on the lacquer (I'm using metallic paint)

Just tried the crystal clear, and it doesn't eat the paint at all, amazing stuff, but it does take an age to dry. Seems weak as well, but it does say you have to leave a long time on the back of the jar.

I also got some Micro Weld, and this is easy to apply as you can dip a toothpick into the jar. I've been using revell contacta in the tub with the needle applicator. Thats great for plastic - plastic with no paint or where you can sand of the glue joins etc... But for small part work, or painted parts it's next to useless..!!

Sticky fingers - I know you are just starting out, I recommend getting some crystal clear. It's easy to apply and it even wipes off.. how cool is that..!!

A few additional thoughts:

If you can find Formula 560 Canopy glue, it's superior to any other similar glues. It's my favorite for gluing lenses and trim, it's easy to wipe away any excess w/water. Dries very strong, and clear, and it has some ability to hold the part while it's drying.

As for panel lines, you need to be using a thinner that is compatible w/your paint...if you used lacquer/enamel for a body, you need to use acrylics for the panel line wash. TS sprays for the body, Tamiya acrylic flats thinned w/their thinner or window cleaner. Otherwise you very well could eat into the main paint w/your wash. You can do the body w/acrylics, and then make the wash from artist's oil paints thinned w/regular old mineral spirits paint thinner.

I actually prefer to use Pigma Micron .005 permanent pigment liner pens to make the panel lines in black, and apply over the first coats of color, prior to a second coat of color. It's easy to apply, and w/the second coat of color the black panel lines are much more realistic, a good contrast to the body color w/o being to dark/harsh.

As for Tamiya tape or any masking tapes, you always run the risk of color bleed. Sometimes it happens no matter how hard you've tried to seal the edges. If you want an easy solution, it would be to mask as thoroughly as possible, then spray a small amount of either the color you've already applied, or clear (clear is preferable). This seals the edge, and if any bleeds through, it won't be the second color. Let the edge dry for a few minutes, then apply your second color. Then carefully remove the masking shortly after painting the second color...10 to 20 minutes is what I generally can do, sometimes immediately if the paint is flat black window trim.

Hope these ideas help.

about the TS paint wiping off, did you happen to thin the paint with high concentrated alcohol (99%)? I found out that 99% can damage TS paint, and 70% (isopropyl) does not seem to damage it at all. Just an input.

I now remeber reading about using a coat of clear first to seal the tape. I will try that next, as all the time it leaks for me.

It was Tamiya thinner, and tamiya arcylic paint I used. I have now ignored the small section that is showing a very small amount of white. I'm not fixing it, I'll put it down to a learning curve..!!

I've just been using MSCC tonight to attach the rear lights etc and it works, but it's slow curing and the parts I've put on are still weak. I'll try that another glue recommended. I'm open to all ideas at the moment until I find a style I can work with well.

I have however just tried Microscale weld, and this is much better then revell contacta for actually applying to the model. I used a brush or toothpick and I didn't get any over spill..!! Not sure how hard it dries or how rated the glue is, but I've ordered some Tamiya CA and Tamiya thin cement and I'll give these a go.

I'll also get some 40mm tape. As for Q-Tips I thoght that they were another product, but I've got hundreds of cotton buds already.

Thanks for the advice all..

If you brush the window molding you should try scribing around the part that is going to be painted. Mask it. Cut the mask and seal the edge. As long as you're not caking it on the line should be straight. I find that spraying the window molding yields far better results. The masking is more intense but well worth it.

Sticky fingers - I know you are just starting out, I recommend getting some crystal clear. It's easy to apply and it even wipes off.. how cool is that..!!


:biggrin: Cheers man, already got some. Yep, put a couple of dots to keep the lens in place. Wait for it to dry then run a bead round the whole lens then wipe off. Seamless & invisible lens-to-body-attachment!!

Superb stuff, but yes - takes ages to dry!

Just read that you guys put a coat of clear on before doing your edges. I didn't, knew it was beginners luck!! From now on I'll use that tip! Cheers