Just bought a '94 Metro

168k miles, 1.0L. Only cost me $350. Interior and exterior is ok.

Problem is that the pressure plate must be messed up as it doesn't engage much.

Anyway, this will be my first clutch job. Any special tools I need to get for this job? Any tips you guys can help me with?

Well, it's no different than any other FWD clutch. Remove starter, drain trans, remove drivers side CV axle, unbolt the trans from the engine and motor mount and the inspection plate, unbolt shift linkage from trans, take clutch cable off the trans, unplug reverse light switch , pull the trans off. unbolt the clutch from the flywheel, and the flywheel machined. Install new clutch, and assemble. USE TORQUE SPECS FOR THE BOLTS FROM THE MANUAL! Or you'll run into some major issues like bolts vibrating loose, or breaking heads off bolts when you install them. Shouldn't take more than a few hours.

Oh, and tools... Just a basic ratchet set, ball joint seperator, torque wrench, breaker bar, 30mm axle nut socket, and clutch alignment tool(which should come with the new clutch). If I missed anything, sorry :)

Do you change the clutch with the stick in neutral? Stupid question but I have to ask.

So where is a good place to buy a good clutch? Just local autoparts store?

Another stupid question:

What parts will I need to purchase to replace the clutch?

Another stupid question:

What parts will I need to purchase to replace the clutch?

I found a clutch kit at autozone that includes the pressure plate, clutch disk, throwout bearing, and the alignment tool, with a lifetime warranty :iceslolan
for only $100. SOLD! That sounded like a good deal to me.

What is a good price for machining the flywheel?

I found a clutch kit at autozone that includes the pressure plate, clutch disk, throwout bearing, and the alignment tool, with a lifetime warranty :iceslolan
for only $100. SOLD! That sounded like a good deal to me.

What is a good price for machining the flywheel?

One place wanted $35 and the other one $40.

But I can get a brand new flywheel for $50!

$50 for a NEW flywheel? rock on, get it! It'll cost $30-$40 to have yours machined. Just make sure it has the alignment pegs in the flywheel.

Thanks man!

Yeah 49.99 at Kragen Autoparts. :)

But I just found out that I have to pay $101 to DMV to begin the process to change the title over to me!

Sooooo, $350 for the car, $101 for DMV, ~$200 for the clutch job. THEN I should have a decent beater car!

So do you have the stick in neutral when you do this job? Or doesn't it matter? Dumb folks want to know... :p

You should have it in 6th gear.....






































:smokin: The gear Doesn't matter. You have to have to shift linkage taken off anyways.

That was evil Alan! :evillol:

Well at least he gave me the answer. I don't have any prob with some good fun.

The prob is when peeps joke about n00bs and then don't help them.

Besides, I'm not a real n00b anyway. Just to clutches, this being my first. I'm sure I will muddle through it.

keep us updated! good luck.

The driver's side CV axle comes out surprisingly easy. The only prob I had was getting the axle nut off as the car was on jack stands... So I had my son stomp down on the brakes while I cranked the nut with a breaker bar. I was not able to break it free so I levered the breaker bar with a floor jack. That did the trick. :icon16:

To pivot the suspension arm on this model metro all I had to do was remove the ball joint pinch bolt & nut (14mm) and the suspension arm rear bracket (also 14mm), then I was able to lever the suspension are down and the axle popped right out without a hassle.

I figured it was a good idea to give the axle a thorough going over. Also I replaced both CV boots after cleaning up all the old grease. With shopping around I was able to get CV boot kits for $9.49 ea from Kragen (they have the "We'll beat any price by 5%" deal). Everything about the axle looks good.

Next up: finishing unbolting the transaxle and having a looksy at the clutch and flywheel.

I was dreading pulling off the passenger side axle nut because I had so much trouble with the driver's side nut. But I just used a breaker bar w/ the 30mm axle nut and a crowbar levered between two of the wheel bolts and it came right off.

The axle popped out just as easy as the drivers side. Now I just have to finish the CV boot job on the passenger side axle.

So for this car so far:

1. I bought it for $350
2. DMV charged me $101 for back registration
3. $100 for the clutch parts
4. $50 to have the flywheel machined
5. $45 for 4 CV boot kits

It looks like I will need to get a new pilot bearing because it had a rough feel when I turned it.

I'm probably going to need a new catalytic converter to get it to pass smog.

I wonder how much all this would have cost at the mechanic shop or the dealer?

I'm picking up a pilot bearing ($15.99) and a pair of axle shaft seals ($6.49 each) for the reinstall.

So add $30 to the price tag of doing the clutch job. I figure I might as well do it now while I have it all disassembled.

The starter looks OK so I'm not going to replace it.

I'll have to wait until I get the car driving to evaluate the suspension accurately. But the Metro doesn't typically have a good "ride". So I am not too concerned about that as long as the parts function.

This has been a good "first time" clutch project. I'm still having fun and that is always a good sign... :iceslolan

Oh and while I have the starter motor out, I'm going to wire brush off the connections to prevent the dreaded "no start" typical of Metro's with corrosion build up on the positive battery cable connex.

All I have left to do is toss the transaxle back on and put the halfshafts back on, then reattach everything.

I might need some help adjusting the clutch as I have never done it before.

Anyone give me tips on how to adjust it right?

Up and running!!! Easy money folks.

The transaxle took a little manhandling to get it into position with the help of my floorjack. Cranked everything to spec and turned the key... Nothing! Battery was drained. So I just popped on the battery charger and it turned right over.

Took it out for a spin and the clutch worked perfectly. No additional adjustment was necessary.

The engine idles a little slow. And I haven't checked the timing yet. So that is next on my list. Also sounds like the belt needs tension. No big deal eh?

Also when I'm up to speed on the freeway, there is a highpitched whistle associated with the gas pedal. Anyone know what that might be?

if you have a small vacuum leak somewhere it can cause a whistle, check all the small rubber hoses. might have knocked one off or maybe 1 has a crack

if you have a small vacuum leak somewhere it can cause a whistle, check all the small rubber hoses. might have knocked one off or maybe 1 has a crack

That is exactly what I was thinking: vacuum leak. So I'm going to replace all the old vacuum hoses anyway as well as check out the EGR valve. No big deal.

:lol: Loving my little ride.

Also when I'm up to speed on the freeway, there is a highpitched whistle associated with the gas pedal. Anyone know what that might be?

This turned out to be the speedometer cable. Easily tested by disconnecting and test driving= no squeal.

Gonna try putting a couple drops of 3in1 oil down the cable and see if that does the trick. Otherwise it is time to get a new speedo cable. 10 min job to replace tops (and I go slow!)

I'm a noob but im a noob who loves his Geo....Mmmmhhmmm I want to work try working on it and doing stuff myself so I can learn

I'm a noob but im a noob who loves his Geo....Mmmmhhmmm I want to work try working on it and doing stuff myself so I can learn

Welcome to Geo lovers are us!

I think you will find that the Geo Metro is an excellent car to work on. The parts are relatively inexpensive and easy to find. This forum should provide you with a LOT of help as you get busy on your Geo. ;)

The parts are relatively inexpensive and easy to find.

Except for the FRIGGIN 2dr window regulator!!!! I'm having a witch of a time finding one for my '94 Metro.

FYI the 2dr window regulator is NOT interchangable with the 4dr window regulator.