Help me please 1990 Integra cutting out while driving!!

Ok I am at wits end here.

I bought a 1990 Acura Integra three weeks ago and until last week, it ran fine. Great on gas, loved it. Then driving home from work on the freeway (ya it sucked!!) it cut out. I managed to pull over and stop but was freaked. I tried starting the car twice, turned over but didn't catch. Waited and tried again. Had someone come and help me, he jiggled a few things in the engine and tried starting it again. This time it started.
Drove home but nevertheless afraid to drive it.

Had someone look at it and at the time they said that I wasn't getting a spark, so I bought and replaced the coil,cap and rotor. Started fine after that so we thought it was all good.

Drove fine for a day, and just now I went to the corner store and bam it cuts out again. Lucky I was close to home. Waited a few minutes, tried starting it, it wouldn't start. Waited a few more and tried again, this time it sputtered and then started moving again.

It feels like the fuel is cutting out, but then again it could be anything. Does anyone have any help for me? I'm afraid to drive it in case it does it again. Could it be the ignition switch? Or relays? Help me!!

:banghead:

i've had mine for about 3 years and its done the same exact thing about 3 or 4 times. it'll run fine and i'll park and run an errand or something then go to start it and it will just crank like it has no fuel. After I crank it enough though it will sputter and start and then be fine again for a long time. I've never figured it out and since it rarely happens haven't really looked into it much but I would definitely say it has something to do with the fuel delivery.

:uhoh:
That really sucks. See if it was 3 or 4 times in 3 years I could probably handle it. But not when it's cutting out while driving.
How can someone figure it out when you don't know it will happen? Does anyone know what I should have checked, say the filter or the pump? Or the relay?

Now I know that when the check engine light comes on you can usually play with some wires and it will flash a code. But my check engine light only comes on after the car has died (obviously) so I don't think this will help me much.

See it could probably work a whole day, or more, and then do it again but really I'm not willing to be driving home from work on the freeway and it does that again. But lately it has been happening more often. Sometimes, I can't get the car to start at all.

I'd appreciate any help!!

well I would say try changing the fuel filter since its easy and inexpensive... But I think it is more than likely the fuel pump getting ready to crap out on you for good.

:sly:
Ok so next step...I haven't received my service manual yet (ordered it but it hasn't shown up), whereabouts is the fuel pump located? I am a little green, used to ford knowledge and this is my first time as an import.

And I'm a chick.

No comments please! I'm trying my best now!
:naughty:

I never changed mine so I'm not sure, probably in the tank though. I have a service manual but I think I left it in my garage... so I should have it by around noon and I'll see if I can post up the directions for you.

Well..knorwj you won't believe it. So i took the car to my dad and brother, who are mechanics (ford mind you but still) and they looked at the fuel pump, filter, relays, battery connection....
And they have come up with the final announcement that it is the distributor, they would bet money on it. So...
Have you ever had to replace a distributor?

And then again who knows if it's not the case i'm back to square one.

LOL THIS IS HELL I TELL YOU

Well..knorwj you won't believe it. So i took the car to my dad and brother, who are mechanics (ford mind you but still) and they looked at the fuel pump, filter, relays, battery connection....
And they have come up with the final announcement that it is the distributor, they would bet money on it. So...
Have you ever had to replace a distributor?

And then again who knows if it's not the case i'm back to square one.

LOL THIS IS HELL I TELL YOU



Sounds like a problem with your TDC,CYP or CKP sensors. These are inside the distributor and you can not change them. You will have to buy a new distibutor to fix it if they are indeed the problem. My integra did a similar thing and it turned out to be the TDC sensor. Lucky for me I have spare parts, so I didn't have to buy a new distributor.
The best advice I can give you is to check the pins inside the connectors next to your distributor, there are two connectors there one is the power for the coil and the other are wires for the ECU. If they are fine then it is more than likely one of the sensors I noted above.

WHTTEG!
Just as I was reading your post, I was reading another page where i was trying to research distributor problems. It mentioned around the same things as you. I have a vague feeling that you are right.
Well I spoke to my brother and he mentioned it could very well be the ignitor but for the pain it's worth to try and fix that, I may as well get a new dist and at least see if that is the problem.

Aside from the fact that at 200k this car has never been maintenanced except for tune-ups and a timing belt, it's probably time for a few things.

I like the Acura too much to give up now. LOL

Read ur messages n my 90 Ls just did that the other day i replaced the distributor but tried to save 80$ n used the old coil. Car still wont start n its not getting spark on all 4 plugs. I dunt think it's a fuel problem becuase when i pulled out my plugs they were fowled n there was plenty of gas in cylinder. THis is a bitch figuring out so if u get urs goin plzz let me know

well one thing...you CKP is NOT located in the distibutor....its located at the crankshaft...hence the naem CranKshaft Postion sensor...your CMP is located at the dist. and since u used your old coil...thats why it didn't start...9/10 times if a honda has problems starting its the dist. the fuel pump is under your back seat, and if u can hear it prime with the key on engine off, then its not the pump, just open your cap, do KOEO and look for 12v at the + side of the coil, give or take .5vs...easiest way to check coil

well one thing...you CKP is NOT located in the distibutor....its located at the crankshaft...hence the naem CranKshaft Postion sensor...your CMP is located at the dist. and since u used your old coil...thats why it didn't start...9/10 times if a honda has problems starting its the dist. the fuel pump is under your back seat, and if u can hear it prime with the key on engine off, then its not the pump, just open your cap, do KOEO and look for 12v at the + side of the coil, give or take .5vs...easiest way to check coilReally?

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=500/11021dizzy1.jpg



If you don't know what you are talking about, don't reply. We are tring to help people learn more about their cars, not feed them wrong information.

just open your cap, do KOEO and look for 12v at the + side of the coil, give or take .5vs...easiest way to check coil

That is not the correct way to test the coil either, by doing that all you are doing is determining that there is power to the coil. You are not making sure that the ICM is telling it to fire. You need to disconnect the coil and measure resistance between the + & - terminals and then between the + and coil windings. I posted the instructions here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=2853539&goto=2853539) .

if your coil doesn't have pwr, u have an open coil, so u wanna explain why integras ls doesnt have spark then?

if your coil doesn't have pwr, u have an open coil, so u wanna explain why integras ls doesnt have spark then?

You don't get it do you? :disappoin

If the coil does not have power on the + terminal the the coil is not the problem. Also if the coil has power on the + terminal that does not mean that it is good nor bad. Look at the link that I put at the bottom of my previous post, that will explain how to test a coil on an integra and most all honda's in the same year ranges.

This happened to me and it turned out to be the main relay (located under the dash beneath the steering wheel) I bought the part and fixed it myself for about $70