89 Caravan Won't turn Over!!??

I had a fuse link go out first, and it would turn over, but wouldn't crank. Fixed that, and now it won't turn over at all. Ignition won't even give me the staisfaction of a single click either. I have power in it, as far as the lights radio etc.

It's a 2.5 ltr non-turbo under the hood.


Any ideas folks? Need to get this beast running ASAP. It's the only vehicle I have and need it running.

Thanks in advance... :)

I had a fuse link go out first, and it would turn over, but wouldn't crank. Fixed that, and now it won't turn over at all. Ignition won't even give me the staisfaction of a single click either. I have power in it, as far as the lights radio etc.

It's a 2.5 ltr non-turbo under the hood.


Any ideas folks? Need to get this beast running ASAP. It's the only vehicle I have and need it running.

Thanks in advance... :)
If I were you I would do the following:
Make sure the battry is fully charged.I would then clean the terminals and make sure the terminals are tight.Then I would try bypassing the ignition.If that does not crank the motor ove then I would yank the starter motor out open it up and check the heavy duty contacts.If the contacts are worn I would replace them and clean the plunger and put the whole thing together and try it out. If the motor turns then you may be in luck when you put it back and try your key.Sounds complicated?? Well thats the first step.After that go to the ignition part. Worth trying!!

If I were you I would do the following:
Make sure the battry is fully charged.I would then clean the terminals and make sure the terminals are tight.Then I would try bypassing the ignition.If that does not crank the motor ove then I would yank the starter motor out open it up and check the heavy duty contacts.If the contacts are worn I would replace them and clean the plunger and put the whole thing together and try it out. If the motor turns then you may be in luck when you put it back and try your key.Sounds complicated?? Well thats the first step.After that go to the ignition part. Worth trying!!

ok, checked the starter, and it's working just fine. Now I'm going to try to check the ignition. Hope this works. Thanks so far.

Alright, I cannot figure out how to hot wire it, so I guess bypassing the ignition is out for now. I took the starter out and brought it to the closest advance here, and it checked out ok. I have been trying to find the wire that leads to the ignition; think it may be the pink one, but I cannot get the steering column apart to know which wire really goes to the ignition.... Anyway, at this point, I'm pretty lost, but I'm not afraid to get into whatever it takes to get this van to start for me. Man! I'm wayyyyy out in the country, and I'm runnin out of food too. Gotta get this vehicle started to get to the store on a regular basis. My neighbor is moving away; the one that helped me get my starter to the advance. Really need some good advice here.

Thanks again, in advance...
Kate

Hi zulman,

ok, Now I'm brainstorming here.... and thinking this may be a timing belt issue. Do you know how to check if the timing belt is snapped? If so, where can I find the info I need to change it out correctly?

Im not sure if you say when you turn the key the starter does not electricly turn? Or it turns the engine but the engine does not fire.
If you turn to the start posistion, and the starter motor does not start turning the engine then it would seem the problem is the cirquet between the battery to the ignition switch,...then the switch to the starter (which includes a starter relay or a selenoid). Somthing in that chain of electrical wizardry is afoul. Not only is the switch a multiple position set up, (off, run, start) it is also a multiple (pole)contact setup. when in the 2nd position(run) some contacts are sending current to some systems like the radio and some other contacts are sending current to say, the electronic ignition system. (or Distibutor coil or High Voltage coil for the spark plugs) If you turn the key to the 1st position, the idiot lights, check engine lights or guages should in fact respond to the current. This however is not a total indicator of whether the the contacts that are assigned to the starter are functioning. (its a very old switch)
Here is a time tested but highly primitive and reletively easy test to do before you spend the rest of your life getting the steering wheel off.
This test will require 2 people, (unless you can stretch your head into the engine compartment while sitting in the seat turning the key to the start position)
1. take out any sparkplug, and leave connected to the thick plug wire
2. fasten a "vise grip plier tool"(or pliers) very!! loosly onto the treads of the plug and have your buddy contact the tool to ground on the engine block somewhere close.
3. get the starter motor engaged to turn the engine over and check for spark.
4. repeat these steps for all 4 plugs
**If you have spark then we may have a few more things to look at.
If the engine turns over and does not fire
1. timing belt...
2. do you smell fuel at the exaust? you do?... goood
Stupid things break just that quick!... on life limited parts like, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, timing belt, ignition switch assembly, the actual coil itself.
Here is another test just for the hell of it if you have a Volt Ohm Meter.
1. disconnect the two small wires on the ignition coil, (Its on your left),
2.Set the meter to R1(resitance in ohms), there should be a small ohm reading of an ohm or two, between the 2 contacts on the coil.
3. Next the setting of R100x is used for test 2. the reading between the big fat wire and the frame of the van or the frame of the coil where it would connect to the van should read at least somthing. if not you may have a bad coil. any coil of the same approximate size will suffice if ya gotta another junk vehicle on the property it may and probably will work.
If you turn the key to start and you get nothing... well maybee??
The senario would be:
Unfortunetly it sounds as if you may need to replace the ignition harness (the assembly that consists of the key slot switch and associated wires that come off of it.) This would entail the complete disassembly of the steering column from the horn switch on down to the spot where the key switch is attached. Perhaps calling a tech from Chrysler on the phone or calling the auto parts store to see if they have anyone who could explain how to get it apart or they may recomend Chiltons or Haines book to show you basic details of the steps to disassemble. It might be an all day job to do too. I have an 89 with the Chrysler 2.5 liter Turbo. I have never looked at the column assembly though. Ill ask my friend tommorow and get back with you. He is currently working with me on a real BEAR of a problem. Ill show you the post I have on Technical/Engineering Thread. Unfortunetley I have had NO responces to help me at all. This stupid thing hasnt ran good enough to drive for like 7 months now, and it still doesnt run... hmmm maybee tomorow...My post is as follows:
=========================
1989 chrysler 2.5 liter turbo with 4 port fuel injection.
engine idles poorly w/ black smoke, runs fine at or above 2500 rpm.
will not get higher than approx. 3500 rpm, stalls at that point when put into drive. In addition when more pedal is applied at 3500 rpm the engine bogs down like its too lean.
Replaced:
1. MAP sensor
2. throttle position sensor
3. oygen sensor
4. disconnected the EGR Valve
5. checked distributor and plugs (did not check timing)
6. replaced fuel pressure regulator
7. checked for blockage of airway
8. replaced main computer
9. checked for the feel of vacuume from various hoses, but did not take redings.
10. did not do a compression check.
If anyone can help, please email at [email protected]
Im desperate now as my backup vehicle is on the way out.
Thanx Rodeee... the bald guy with the speckled mutt.

I just had anuther thought(these are rare) As long as ya know where the big fat cable at the starter end is and frame where the starter attaches to,... these all need to be shined up spotless of NO corrosion! Then tighten and seal the areas with heavy grease, or vaseline, or some commercial greasy connection/anti corrosion sealer. You probly dont live near the shore but hell ya outta see airplanes that live on or near the coast!! jeez!
corrosion is what happens when the owner parks his airplane!! Obviously ya wanna sparkle up the battery terminals, connectors, but some folks forget to elliminate the corrosion that happens where the battery wires connect to the connector.
This is kewl!.
1. get a pan of warm water about a cup or 2.
2. put about2 or 3 tablspoons of baking soda and stir. (your corroded battery terminals are shuddering with fear, because they can sence whats gonna happen next!)
3. carefully immerse as much of the connectors and battery wires as you can in the solution, and go watch a movie. Be carefull!! NOT to get this mess any where near anything important like the battery! baking soda will destroy a battery (if the soution gets inside the fill holes) cuz a base and an acid solution kill each other making salt and water.
Later wash with plenty of clean warm water.
Reassemble connections, and (apply grease or vaseline, or some commercial greasy connection/anti corrosion sealer. whatever is more accesible for ya)
Rodeee

kusawakate, what part of the country are you in? It sounds like things are getting pretty desperate for you, maybe one of us lives close enough we can come out and help.