fan clutch going bad?

hi all of you mechanics,
have a problem that just started a few days ago. after driving about 5 miles, my temp starts to go above 210 degrees. if i stop and idle for a minute or so, the temp starts to drop. could the clutch on the fan be bad? how does one tell if it is going bad?
got a 1984 chevy p/up with the 305 motor, no computer.

thanks all.

If the fan is going bad, it should be getting hot when you idle for a long time. It then kicks up a gear to make the fan turn faster. When your driving, air is passing through the radiator, so the fan is not needed as much. I would say the radiator may be getting clogged and in need of a flush. I would use a chemical flush, just to get more of the gunk out.

joe, interesting that you should mention the radiator. have a small leak and used some "stop leak", but that was weeks ago. ?? have another fan assy. just looking at options.

thanks for your input

If the radiator was getting clogged up, then the stop leak could finish off the clog completely, or at least make the clog worse. Take off the rad. cap and look inside and see how bad the openings are. If they are real bad, it may be time for a new one.

Sounds your Stop Leak fix fixed up your radiator to "Stop Flowing"!!!!!!!

That stop leak stuff is BAD BAD BAD. My dad used it ONCE in his 80 scottsdale that had a minor leak. It cost him a new block heater , new coolant and a rad flush. The stop leak stuff blocked off the loop in the heating element of the block heater causing it to burn out. We were amazed because it is not like there is a small gap in the look , it has to be at least 1/4" opening and yes the garage even saved it to show my dad so it is not like they were pulling his leg to get more money out of him.

you know, if you ever have a small rad leak and you are just trying to get home, you can use pepper! Regular household pepper! Note this is a temporary fix but it works. That Stop Leak $&*@ is just a temporary fix as well but I think pepper is cheaper. There is no quick fixin' a radiator leak. You still want to flush the rad out and repair leak (if possible) via welding, soldering, or maybe even JB Weld. If leak is too big, then obviously you must replace it.

well got the ole' rig started and water is flowing nicely from the top heater hose. how much off on the timing before it will run a little hotter??

thanks again

That stop leak stuff is BAD BAD BAD. My dad used it ONCE in his 80 scottsdale that had a minor leak. It cost him a new block heater , new coolant and a rad flush. The stop leak stuff blocked off the loop in the heating element of the block heater causing it to burn out. We were amazed because it is not like there is a small gap in the look , it has to be at least 1/4" opening and yes the garage even saved it to show my dad so it is not like they were pulling his leg to get more money out of him.
A couple of eggs work well too. Just can't put them in a hot radiator. Put them in cold and it really works.

cant figure out tho' why i pump the gas once or twice, starts, and dies, then pump and pump and maybe it will start again and run. carb going bad?? can't figure it out. any more suggs

water pump, check your water pump......