4G63 motor work who to trust...

I am lookin at getting the valve seals done and talked to mitsubishi today and they will charge about $1500... that includes new T belt and gaskets and head shaved and such...

Does anyone in minnesota know of a reputable place that I can trust to do this for cheaper or even just to rebuild mine or get a rebuilt motor+labor for 1500 or less?
I heard the name JASPER thrown around a few times...

I fully trust mitsu to do the work but the price is kinda alot!!!
If thats a last resort I will pay..... reluctantly..... but with peace of mind

If anyone has any other ideas let me know....

I PM'd JAKE about a week ago askin him if and how much he would do it for with or without my help and such but no word back from him.... he lives a few hours away so i'm more than willing to drive there...

Ok, after I got of the phone with you the other night I started finding everything out and estimating the time it will take for everything.

Well I just finished going through and checking all the prices out, contacted my machinest and got all the figures straightened out. What I would be doing is pulling the motor, taking everything off the head, sending the head to get resurfaced, then clean it and reassemble it. Then I would disassemble the block, pull the pistons off the rods, wash and clean everything in the block. Then I dry everything off and oil it, paint the block and let it dry while I put new pistons on the rods. Then I replace all the bearings in the block and reassemble the crank in the block. Make sure that moves good and then put the rings on the pistons and put them in the block. Then lube up bearings and connect the rods to the crank. Check everything over, make sure it moves nice and smooth without any hangups. Next I will put in the balance shaft removal kit. (No need for them, just added security without them)

After that is said and done, the main and rear seals will be replaced, the new case cover and oil pump will be put in and the oil pan will be put on and the block will be done. Then I put the head on, torque it down and put the cams back in. Fill the motor with oil and spin the oil pump to prime the whole engine so it when it starts for the first time there is oil in each and every hole and oil port.

Then I add all the new timing components, new water pump, put the motor mount back on, and then the new timing belt will be put on and timing will be set. Timing belt cover goes back on, intake manifold and exhaust manifold will be put on and torqued down to spec. Turbo and all the lines will be added before the motor is dropped into the car. Then everything is hooked up and all the fluids are put back in the radiator and tranny.

Once this is all done, I start the car, make sure everything is together, no leaks, then break in the piston rings. After that, change the oil and filter, then drive it for 100 miles not exceeding 70mph or 3500rpms. Change the oil again.

After that you can come get your car. I will probably need it for about a week due to my machinest is backed up right now and would need the head for about 2 days so it throws my schedual way off! And I need about a day for disassembly, a day for straight cleaning, a day for reassembly, and a day to break it in. So i'm thinking if you drop it off on say a Saturday, then pick it up the next Friday/Saturday that would probably be best. After you pick it up, you should change the oil and filter again at about 500 miles, around 1250 miles, then again at 3000 miles. Then every 2500/3000 miles after that. Also have to remember that this is not the time to go cheap on oil or the filter so replace with the best cause it will save your bearings!

Here is a list on everything I will be replacing:

New Gaskets and Seals (all will be replaced)
New Pistons and Rings
New Rod and Main Bearings
New Crank Case Cover
New Oil Pump
New Water Pump
New Timing Components
New Timing Belt
New ARP Headstuds
New Oil and Filter
New Antifreeze
New Tranny Fluid
New Balance Shaft Eliminator kit

I PM'd you with prices and also an option of a 6 bolt motor. If anyone has opinions, chime in. Compaired to the $1500 for the dealership to do just valve seals, a complete rebuild isnt much more. I am a certified mechanic and I do stand behind my work! Although I cannot gaurantee that you will not get CW if you use have me rebuild your 7 bolt.

Thanks jake!!!!!

I pm'd ya... check it out
L8R

jake, i noticed that you do all the bearings and then torque on the head. have you read the one CW writeup that recommends putting the head on before setting the bearing clearances in the block? have you ever tried this? would it be a good idea for me to do when i put back together my 6 bolt?

Just for poeple in the New England states, I use Edgar Machine in Ware MA. He does excellent work, and his prices are more than fair. Many poeple in the NE area are starting to catch on and use him as well now, lots of his heads are floating around. We've had a couple blocks done, and it looks like some other NEDSMers are sending their blocks to him now as well. Just a heads up. His number is on my main POSR page.

jake, i noticed that you do all the bearings and then torque on the head. have you read the one CW writeup that recommends putting the head on before setting the bearing clearances in the block? have you ever tried this? would it be a good idea for me to do when i put back together my 6 bolt?

I have never heard of that causeing crankwalk... Although thanks for pointing it out I will look into it more. I have never done it just because I think it would be pretty impossible to make sure the crank spins freely seeing you would need the rods and pistons in the cylinders and with no timing belt on the motor you risk bending valves which is not a good thing! I'll research it more and get back to you on what you should do... Personally I'd just build it like any other motor, put the crank in, tq it down, then drop each piston/rod in individually and tq them down making sure that everything moves and spins freely.

Thats how I have always done it and as far as I'm concerned that will probably be the way I continue, considering if I did put the head on before I torqued everything down then something didnt work right, I'd be really fucking pissed! lol So I wouldnt hassle with putting the head on first, but thats just my :2cents:. You can do it however you would like!

Its not a question of wether or not doing or not doing that does or doesnt cause crankwalk. Its more a matter of eliminating any possible cause that could slightly increase the risk of crankwalk :) Its really the same exact thing as bolting on a torque plate. If the cams are not in the head (which is easy to make happen) there is no way you can bend valves. A torque plate might be easier though. I certainly wouldnt just leave the head on, I like to spend a good deal of time making sure the head is installed properly as far as the studs and gasket go, as we all know from the other thread. Torque plates however can be hard to come by for these motors, so this is a readily available option for poeple that want to take this precaution.

Jake does good work; I can attest to that, having watched him at work and driven the car about 2000 miles since the work was done. You may want to opt for the 6 bolt swap here, though. Especially if you plan to make big power out of the motor in the future...it would be well worth the piece of mind IMO.

Yup... I just talked to jake a bit ago.... gonna do the 6bolt swap.... I really don't have mega power plans ... maybe a 14b or sm 16g...
I gotta talk to the boss er uh I mean my wife......
I see either $1500 for just mitsu valve job or
little over $2000 for rebuilt 6 bolt.......
hmmmmmmmm thats a tuffy.......