Cylinder Head
Powerefx
01-26-2005, 08:42 PM
Just bought new cylinder head for my 1993 escort along with a torque wrench, a tap and die set, and a compression kit, along with all of the neccesary bolts and gaskets. Just have a question about the torque wrench. After i put how much pressure i want to be applied, how will i be notified that it has reached that setting. Some say that the wrench will click. I dont see how the wrench knows how much is applied and when to "Click", can anyone expalin to me? Also i am open to any suggestion on installing the head, for this is my first time.
RandomTask
01-26-2005, 08:49 PM
Well it does depend on what type of torque wrench it is. Some have a dial, or more commonly a needle indicator. The shaft of the torque wrench bends while this needle stays straight. Essentially, where the needle is pointing on the guage is the current torque on the bolt. The other type of torque wrench which sounds like you have, does click. When you get to the set torque it does *click*. Its unmistakable and I don't think you'll be able to get it confused... good luck...
MagicRat
01-26-2005, 08:56 PM
Be sure to get a proper service manual (like Haynes or Chiltons) for your car that outlines the service procedure, step by step.
Your torque wrench should have come with instructions, if its new.
If there is no dial or digital readout, it's likely a clicker type.
If its a clicker type, it has an outer housing, where the hand grip is. The inner component is connected to the ratchet head. A tiny amount of movement is allowable, between the two. There is a calibrated sping inside that holds the two together. As you twist a socket, pressure is applied on this spring through a linkage. Eventually, your twisting force overcomes the spring tension, allowing the two components to move slightly. You will feel a slight movement and hear a 'click' when you have acheved the correct torque. Do not turn the bolt anymore after you hear the click.
Also when tightening the bolt, don't jerk the wrench, use a slow, even pressure.
Try placing the ratchet drive in a vice and dialing in 5 ft-lbs and then turn the wrench, to feel the click. Then try 10 ft lbs, then 15 etc to get the feel of the click and the pressure required to achieve a specific amount of torque.
When you have finished using the wrench, be sure to turn the adjstment dial back to zero ft-lbs (no less, no more) to relieve tension on the spring.
Your torque wrench should have come with instructions, if its new.
If there is no dial or digital readout, it's likely a clicker type.
If its a clicker type, it has an outer housing, where the hand grip is. The inner component is connected to the ratchet head. A tiny amount of movement is allowable, between the two. There is a calibrated sping inside that holds the two together. As you twist a socket, pressure is applied on this spring through a linkage. Eventually, your twisting force overcomes the spring tension, allowing the two components to move slightly. You will feel a slight movement and hear a 'click' when you have acheved the correct torque. Do not turn the bolt anymore after you hear the click.
Also when tightening the bolt, don't jerk the wrench, use a slow, even pressure.
Try placing the ratchet drive in a vice and dialing in 5 ft-lbs and then turn the wrench, to feel the click. Then try 10 ft lbs, then 15 etc to get the feel of the click and the pressure required to achieve a specific amount of torque.
When you have finished using the wrench, be sure to turn the adjstment dial back to zero ft-lbs (no less, no more) to relieve tension on the spring.
Powerefx
01-26-2005, 08:56 PM
when im using the torque wrench to bolt on the head cylinder bolts, do i just keep moving it in a curcular motion, or is it ok to pull it back and push it front again.( YOU KNOW HOW WHEN YOU MOVE IT IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS, IT CLIKS AND NO PRESSURE IS APPLIED AND LETS YOU MOVE THE WRENCH FORWARD AGAIN).
v10_viper
01-26-2005, 09:32 PM
when im using the torque wrench to bolt on the head cylinder bolts, do i just keep moving it in a curcular motion, or is it ok to pull it back and push it front again.( YOU KNOW HOW WHEN YOU MOVE IT IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS, IT CLIKS AND NO PRESSURE IS APPLIED AND LETS YOU MOVE THE WRENCH FORWARD AGAIN).
No the click is noticeably different then the ratcheting action you should notice the difference anyways. Just set it to the torque that your heads need to be at and go try it on something else to get a feel for it so you know what to expect, and like they said, slow and even motions, just keep it constant.
No the click is noticeably different then the ratcheting action you should notice the difference anyways. Just set it to the torque that your heads need to be at and go try it on something else to get a feel for it so you know what to expect, and like they said, slow and even motions, just keep it constant.
curtis73
01-27-2005, 12:00 AM
Yep. Take it slowly or you'll keep turning the bolt past the click. If you're not ready to let off, sometimes it clicks and surprises you and you accidentally turn it a little more after the click. Just don't be afraid to go slowly. I like to put some classical or jazz music on and chill with a beer.
Its fine to rachet the wrench back to get a good pulling position. The manual will probably say this, but its good to "sneak up" on the torque values. Use the manual to go in proper order, thats important... and take them all up to about 1/2 the torque value. Then set the wrench up about 10 ft-lbs and start back at #1. The most recent ones I did required 65 ft-lbs, so I started at 35 and did them all in sequence. Then 45, 55, and finally 65. It takes time especially your first time so don't rush it.
Oh, also, avoid the use of extensions or abnormally deep sockets. They can throw of the torque readings by about 3-5 ft-lbs. Just be consistent and you'll be fine.
I also recommend using a moly-based assembly lube on under the head of the bolt and between the washer and head. If there's too much friction between them, they'll throw off the torque readings.
Its fine to rachet the wrench back to get a good pulling position. The manual will probably say this, but its good to "sneak up" on the torque values. Use the manual to go in proper order, thats important... and take them all up to about 1/2 the torque value. Then set the wrench up about 10 ft-lbs and start back at #1. The most recent ones I did required 65 ft-lbs, so I started at 35 and did them all in sequence. Then 45, 55, and finally 65. It takes time especially your first time so don't rush it.
Oh, also, avoid the use of extensions or abnormally deep sockets. They can throw of the torque readings by about 3-5 ft-lbs. Just be consistent and you'll be fine.
I also recommend using a moly-based assembly lube on under the head of the bolt and between the washer and head. If there's too much friction between them, they'll throw off the torque readings.
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