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Engine Prep Question Please Reply


Mayday0017
01-25-2005, 10:07 PM
Ok so I got the new engine that will be going in my 240. The engine is out of a 1997 and has 1,652 miles on it. The question is this engine must have been sitting for roughly 8 years, What all do I need to do to this engine before I put it in the car? Would yall worrie about new seals like rear main, front crank, oilpan, ect? Also What prep work do I need to do? just drain any oil left drop oil pan make sure it is clean inside, prime oil pump by taking the fuel pump fuse out and cranking the engine for like 15 seconds (let sit for a min then repeat 3 or so times) I was also going to open the valve cover and pour the oil in on top of the cams ect when I go to fill it is this a good idea? Let me know anythign else I"m missing.

Hit_N_Run-player
01-25-2005, 11:06 PM
less than 2,000 miles? it has to be rebuilt then, and i wouldnt worry to much if was just rebuilt, im not really sure about what to change..Good luck though.

logik23
01-25-2005, 11:07 PM
Make sure there's no rust in the cylinders.

Mayday0017
01-25-2005, 11:16 PM
The engine is not rebuilt Factory engine nissian built. I have pics of the car it came from the vin # on it the milage and pics of the vin # on the block of the engine as well as a pic inside the valve cover wehre I must say it is cleaner then a head that I just had machined.

Mayday0017
01-25-2005, 11:17 PM
How do I check for rust on the cylenders when the engine is all together? ALSO why would they rust if the engine has a coat of oil from beign ran?

Hit_N_Run-player
01-25-2005, 11:18 PM
so your saying someone outside of the company (nissan) couldnt have re-built it?

logik23
01-25-2005, 11:22 PM
There's no oil in the combustion chambers, if the engine has been sitting there for 8 years, there might be rust there, and you gotta take the head off.

Mayday0017
01-25-2005, 11:43 PM
Combustion chambers do end up coated with oil that is why the pistons don't melt to the block. However I must agree there is a chance of rust due to the fact they haven't had their light coat of oil in roughly 8 years. However I"m not going to pull the head and check, the engine has a 30 day warrenty and I should have the engine in and running w/ 29 days remaining on the warrenty. If nothing fails with in 29 days and roughly 1,500 miles I have nothing to worrie about. I just think it would be pointless to pull the head and check cause even if it does then I have to rebuild the engine pretty much which defeats the purpose of buying the engine instead of rebuilding mine. I plan on pouring some oil in on top of the pistons and cranking the car with the fuel pump turned off so oil pump will get primed and pistons won't scratch the walls or have any friction. Anymore suggestions?

logik23
01-26-2005, 03:44 PM
Oil in the combustion chambers? Anyone can verefy that? I didn't think so....

Mayday0017
01-26-2005, 04:19 PM
There is a THIN THIN coat of oil that the piston rings glide on. Everyone knows the main purpose of oil in your engine is to prevent metal on metal from welding itself together. So there IS oil on the walls of the combustion chamber. Now then there isn't ALOT but there is a thin coat if there wasn't there would be to great of friction and that would cause the engine to seize up.

monooxide
01-26-2005, 04:30 PM
Just learned this in Aviation Maintenance class...You need to find something called a Borescope its made specifcally for this... Make sure you get a Borescope with the Light on the end so it lights the cylinder up nicely and then oh yeah didnt tell you this key part of information. Put the Borescope through the Spark Plug hole :D(thank god for edit)..use it to check around each of the cylinder walls once thats done. If there was no Oil on the walls I would pour like maybe 1/4-1/2 pints of oil into each cylinder...Then i would compression test it. And if compression check comes out good then try to start her up. If you want a FULL descriptive where to get and how-to just PM ME

Hit_N_Run-player
01-26-2005, 04:39 PM
we have one of those. Its like a fiberoptic cable. Super awesome, hold the button on for the light, put it down in the cyl. and you should save yourself a bit of trouble..Good luck!

logik23
01-26-2005, 04:41 PM
So why doesn't it burn? I know there's some on the rings, but in the actual combustion chamber?

Hit_N_Run-player
01-26-2005, 04:46 PM
idk about the question you got logik, im leaning more toward your side though, i always thought the actual chamber didnt have any oil but the rings do? where is "nissanfanatic" when you need him!!

DWF Engineering
01-27-2005, 10:32 AM
So why doesn't it burn? I know there's some on the rings, but in the actual combustion chamber?

Some of it does but the fire in the cylinder is in the air charge, not directly on the metal (not that it doesn't contact the metal, or the oil film actually). The cylinder walls' temperatures are probably only about 15-20% of the EGT, well below the flash point of motor oils so it doesn't burn off rapidly or ash the cylinder walls. Bottom line: ALL engines burn oil, even you can't tell by checking the level between changes. If none of the oil burned off and none of the burning/burned gasses made it past the rings into the crank case you would not need an oil filter and you would NEVER have to change the oil. Nice thought but it doesn't work that way, you can't make a 100% seal between moving parts.

Mayday0017
01-27-2005, 11:33 AM
Thank you that was exactly what I was trying to say just couldn't think of the words I wanted to use to express it.

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