thinking about a turbo

for all of you thinking about putting a turbo on ur 240, you should read this. it gives a good feel of how to install the oil lines on the turbo, which is what i was looking for. and tells you the steps of doing so.

1. clear up the entire exhaust side of the engine bay of all extraneous stuff. As you remove the exhaust manifold you will realize that there are many things that are connected to it. the AIV valve can be removed, as well as the EGR valve. I plugged my EGR on the exhaust side, but you can remove a lot of the vacuum components on the intake side but I didn't do any of that prep. remove the stock airbox, if you still have that, and all of the intake piping.
2. The next step is to figure out where you want the turbo to be mounted, if you have a manifold that allows you to position your turbo. set your turbo manifold up to the studs, and you might as well bolt it in place because you will need to move around it quite a lot. the trouble that I ran into was the steering column and the bellhousing of the tranny are close, and required some artful maneuvering of the downpipe to fit it in place. for me there was only one possible configration that worked. Once you know where you want the turbo mounted, mark well, or weld your flange into place. make sure that the manifold can hold pressure, and if you are unsure of your welding prowess, I would recommend taking it to someone.
3. The Third step is to mount your turbo for the first final fitting. install all gaskets in the exhaust path, and torque the pieces down to spec. now you can begin with the peripherals of the turbo install. I continued with oil delivery as the next stage in the install. begin by running a T from the oil pressure sending unit, which is the sensor located in the block next to your oil filter. Then from that T, run a -3AN / 1/4in oil feed line. get one that is braided stainless, because it rubs against things, and you dont want your feed line to ever rupture. the other side of the T goes back into the oil pressure sending unit. attatch the oil hose to the turbo and your feed is done.
4. Next the oil has to go somewhere after it enters the turbo, so you want a return hose that will drain into your oil pan. in order to begin this jack up the engine and remove the oil pan. first unbolt motor mounts, then put a jack under the bellhousing to block connection, and jack the engine up ~4-5 inches. undo all of the bolts connecting the oil pan to the motor and now you will have to pry it off with a screwdriver, or the designated nissan tool, but who actually has that. anyway, once the oil pan is off you will have to drill a hole, and affix your connection somehow. I tapped the pan using a 1/2 NPT tap, and connecting my return hose ... a 5/8" reinforced drain line.
5. Now that oil is done, the piping has to be made. first I would recommend finding a place for your inter cooler if you have one. I mounted my sidemount in the fender by cutting a hole where the old airbox used to be. after your intercooler is where you want it you can begin the final construction of the piping. personally I fabricated everything with PVC bends from the hardware store. this makes for fairly easy fabrication, and now I have everything mocked up, and I will take them to a pipe bender and have him bend me a piece that is of the exact specs that I need.
6. The next system in your car that needs refinment is the fuel system. There are many options as far as delivery is concerned. being on a tight budget, I decided to use all of my stock pieces and go with a Vortech 8:1 FMU. this sits inline with your fuel return line, and increases the pressure in the system as boost goes up. its relatively simple. find a place to mount the unit, and screw it in place. once it is secured you can splice into your current return line. fairly simple.
7. Finally your fabrication is done. Now all of your vacuum lines have to be rerun. the AICV valve has to be plugged into boost. The line going to the T and over to the carbon canister can be left open. the PCV valve I have left open as well, but will put a filter on the end of it. it can also be rerouted to feed into the intake pipe, before the turbo. any lines that you have added, BOV, and wastegate must be connected to their proper places inline with your piping.
8. as a final step, you can retard the timing as a precaution to detonation. now that you have a turboed engine, I would run high octane gasoline in it.

WOW great thread and very informative, i think it should be stickyed or added to faq, pic would be nice but its really helpful, i knew most of this but you put it together well in one place

btw how does the car run now, im assuming your running 6-8 psi b/c you dont have proper fmu...

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Sticky worthy. I think there should be a "do it yourself"sticky or" walk throughs". This, and the engine removal guide are very informative.

I think it is sticky worthy. And turbo2nr, I think he just found this and copy/pasted it.

I wouldn't do a KA-T setup without removing the engine. Taking the oil pan off is sooooo much easier with the engine out of the car. It also allows you to change the clutch, access the EGR much easier, set up your oil lines very easily, and check all your vacuum lines very easily. And you can get to all of the bolts on the exhaust manifold very easily to get them tightened down well. And trust me, that matters if your running a Revhard. Access to the bolts is tight if the engine is in the car. Retarding base timing must also be done correctly or it can cost you one of two things: drivability or your engine. Make sure the car idles at 700rpm before you back timing off. PCV valve should be routed back into the intake as well. Believe it or not, that is actually metered air. Overall, a very good guide for people looking for what is involved in the task. I have PVC for intake tubes right now too.hahahahahahahhahahahha

yeah i did copy and paste it, he did have pictures on the site how he did it, ill try to find it again.

http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/shersman/pics.html
sorry to whoever i jacked these pics from, but its to good use

Yea I remember him from 240sxforums. He's pretty cool.

Gotta love the white PVC piping.

Gotta hate it when it starts warping. I can't wait for the intercooler and couplings to arrive for mine. Intake piping looks sooooooo cool. Much cooler than white PVC with barcodes all over it.

lol now when a customer comes into home depot buying pvc pipes i will have that taught in my head "are you making piping" lol o0o man see what you people did corupting my mind with ghetto tunning lol

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hahahahahhaahahahaha If only the people at Ace knew what I was really doing with that piping. After you rig so many things, it just seems correct after a while. Don't worry, no more ghetto stuff for me. Like you have never rigged anything. hahahahahaha with a 160k turbo car, ghettoing is inevitable.

haha did anyone see my front lip? its made from homedepot garden guard.. lol its the funnies thing if you look at it for a distance it looks legit, but up close you can see the sheetrock screws holding to the bumper... yes i know im soo rice... and countless zipties holding down parts under my hood lol...

take a peep if you want http://www.cardomain.com/id/turbo2nr

with a old car its inevitable
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More zip ties than horsepower here too. hahahahahahahaha. Love the lip.

You beat me by 1mph in the quarter. But that was at 5psi unintercooled with a shitty coil. Smoked me on the time though. 15.3@93

yea but its not offical, lol that a gustimate, cause i beat hi 14 sec cars and low 15sec car so thats why i guessed that, most likley now your faster then i am, my car running like garbage right now lol..

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