1999 Escort/Tracer Electrical Problem
beckery1
01-24-2005, 12:25 PM
This question is actually for a 1999 Mercury Tracer but I thought it would get better exposure under its sister's category. This car was bought new and has never had any rewiring done to it, or any previous problems. A couple of weeks ago, the gas tank was filled and then parked in the garage. The next morning after using the remote to unlock the trunk before getting in the car, the car would not start. I mention the gas and the trunk release because those are the only things that happened between the car working and not working. Here were the symptoms:
1) The starter would crank strong (so the battery was fine).
2) No other electrical components worked (lights, radio, blower motor, power locks etc.)
3) With the ignition off some of the red idiot lights would glow dimly on the dash.
4) If you try to turn the lights on, something would click under the hood.
5) The gas gauge had gone all the way past full and was pointing downward.
6) When you would pull the BTN fuse in and out from the fuse block under the hood, you woud hear a bunch of clicking under the hood. The same thing happened with the ROOM fuse from the fuse block inside the car.
I checked everything I could of thinking that maybe something had crossed under the fuse box, or maybe a wire was grounding somewhere. The car was towed and as soon as it was dropped off the truck, it started and everything went back to normal. A few seconds later it cut out and went back to the above symptoms. I had a mechanic check things over and after his pulling and prodding they found nothing but the car started and has been working fine for the past couple of weeks. The only strange thing that happened twice was that for a few seconds while driving, you would hear a click and the electrical components would die (blower motor, lights etc.) and the red idiot lights would flash on and then it would go back to normal. This all occured without any engine power loss. As you might imagine I am completely stumped and am starting to worry about the reliability of the car. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
1) The starter would crank strong (so the battery was fine).
2) No other electrical components worked (lights, radio, blower motor, power locks etc.)
3) With the ignition off some of the red idiot lights would glow dimly on the dash.
4) If you try to turn the lights on, something would click under the hood.
5) The gas gauge had gone all the way past full and was pointing downward.
6) When you would pull the BTN fuse in and out from the fuse block under the hood, you woud hear a bunch of clicking under the hood. The same thing happened with the ROOM fuse from the fuse block inside the car.
I checked everything I could of thinking that maybe something had crossed under the fuse box, or maybe a wire was grounding somewhere. The car was towed and as soon as it was dropped off the truck, it started and everything went back to normal. A few seconds later it cut out and went back to the above symptoms. I had a mechanic check things over and after his pulling and prodding they found nothing but the car started and has been working fine for the past couple of weeks. The only strange thing that happened twice was that for a few seconds while driving, you would hear a click and the electrical components would die (blower motor, lights etc.) and the red idiot lights would flash on and then it would go back to normal. This all occured without any engine power loss. As you might imagine I am completely stumped and am starting to worry about the reliability of the car. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
Jet-Lee
01-24-2005, 02:15 PM
Get your alternator and battery checked at AutoZone ASAP, it's free. Then, before or after, check your lead connections to your battery. Clean them with a copper wire brush VERY good. Clamp them back down TIGHT. If that doesn't fix it, someone else on this board may be able to shed some light.
beckery1
01-24-2005, 03:07 PM
I already had the alternator checked and the battery cables are like new. This ones a real puzzler, but thanks for your advice.
Jet-Lee
01-24-2005, 03:40 PM
-how r the connections to the battery?
-You might have a corroded ground from the negative (-) battery terminal.
-I'm not interested in the condition of the leads, just the connection. You can have brand new leads and if the connection is dirty, ur screwed.
-How old is ur battery?
-Have you had it(battery) tested?
-wiggle the pcm and see if it makes a difference.
-You might have a corroded ground from the negative (-) battery terminal.
-I'm not interested in the condition of the leads, just the connection. You can have brand new leads and if the connection is dirty, ur screwed.
-How old is ur battery?
-Have you had it(battery) tested?
-wiggle the pcm and see if it makes a difference.
beckery1
01-24-2005, 03:45 PM
The connections are clean. The battery is original, but it appears to be as good as new. It starts up strong in single digit weather with no problems. What is the pcm?
Jet-Lee
01-24-2005, 03:50 PM
Get a new battery. Less than 30% last more than 4 years. PCM I believe is the control unit underneath your airbox. Make sure it has a good tight connection. Also check your ECU under the dash.
beckery1
01-24-2005, 03:52 PM
OK thanks, I'll try that.
A. Souphound
01-24-2005, 04:46 PM
This question is actually for a 1999 Mercury Tracer but I thought it would get better exposure under its sister's category. This car was bought new and has never had any rewiring done to it, or any previous problems. A couple of weeks ago, the gas tank was filled and then parked in the garage. The next morning after using the remote to unlock the trunk before getting in the car, the car would not start. I mention the gas and the trunk release because those are the only things that happened between the car working and not working. Here were the symptoms:
1) The starter would crank strong (so the battery was fine).
2) No other electrical components worked (lights, radio, blower motor, power locks etc.)
3) With the ignition off some of the red idiot lights would glow dimly on the dash.
4) If you try to turn the lights on, something would click under the hood.
5) The gas gauge had gone all the way past full and was pointing downward.
6) When you would pull the BTN fuse in and out from the fuse block under the hood, you woud hear a bunch of clicking under the hood. The same thing happened with the ROOM fuse from the fuse block inside the car.
I checked everything I could of thinking that maybe something had crossed under the fuse box, or maybe a wire was grounding somewhere. The car was towed and as soon as it was dropped off the truck, it started and everything went back to normal. A few seconds later it cut out and went back to the above symptoms. I had a mechanic check things over and after his pulling and prodding they found nothing but the car started and has been working fine for the past couple of weeks. The only strange thing that happened twice was that for a few seconds while driving, you would hear a click and the electrical components would die (blower motor, lights etc.) and the red idiot lights would flash on and then it would go back to normal. This all occured without any engine power loss. As you might imagine I am completely stumped and am starting to worry about the reliability of the car. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
Beckery1,
When this power failure occured, everything was inoperative except the starter motor/relay....If this is a correct summary, the problem lies between the battery (+) terminal and the Main Fuse (60 -100 Amp) located in the engine compartment. Check the fuse, check for bad connection, broken wire, loose bulkhead connector, etc.
Rational: The Main Fuse controls all circuits EXCEPT Starter Motor/Relay. If this circuit were "open" nothing would work except the starter, and those were the symptoms. Poor contact is causing the intermittent condition.
Alvin
1) The starter would crank strong (so the battery was fine).
2) No other electrical components worked (lights, radio, blower motor, power locks etc.)
3) With the ignition off some of the red idiot lights would glow dimly on the dash.
4) If you try to turn the lights on, something would click under the hood.
5) The gas gauge had gone all the way past full and was pointing downward.
6) When you would pull the BTN fuse in and out from the fuse block under the hood, you woud hear a bunch of clicking under the hood. The same thing happened with the ROOM fuse from the fuse block inside the car.
I checked everything I could of thinking that maybe something had crossed under the fuse box, or maybe a wire was grounding somewhere. The car was towed and as soon as it was dropped off the truck, it started and everything went back to normal. A few seconds later it cut out and went back to the above symptoms. I had a mechanic check things over and after his pulling and prodding they found nothing but the car started and has been working fine for the past couple of weeks. The only strange thing that happened twice was that for a few seconds while driving, you would hear a click and the electrical components would die (blower motor, lights etc.) and the red idiot lights would flash on and then it would go back to normal. This all occured without any engine power loss. As you might imagine I am completely stumped and am starting to worry about the reliability of the car. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
Beckery1,
When this power failure occured, everything was inoperative except the starter motor/relay....If this is a correct summary, the problem lies between the battery (+) terminal and the Main Fuse (60 -100 Amp) located in the engine compartment. Check the fuse, check for bad connection, broken wire, loose bulkhead connector, etc.
Rational: The Main Fuse controls all circuits EXCEPT Starter Motor/Relay. If this circuit were "open" nothing would work except the starter, and those were the symptoms. Poor contact is causing the intermittent condition.
Alvin
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