How to Lower 01 Z24?

Does anyone have any detailed instructions on how to lowering springs and shocks/struts?

install lowering springs and shocks/struts******

Teamforwardmotion.com use to have a step by step how to, but i just tried getting it for you and its no longer there.

http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=77664&t=77664

Here is one where a JBO member shows how to do a KONI yellow and Eibach pro kit install. Its the exact same just if you do not use koni, don't worry about all the steps on modifying the struts.. JUST READ IT ALL!

put some jubilee clips around your springs a few coils apart and tighten them until the desired amount is taking out.

Seriously though never do this or anything like it!! Don't ever cut springs either it's not good!

i was about to say the struts would blow if you did that

i was about to say the struts would blow if you did that
Not necessarily. If you get low enough, on to your bumps stops they wont come into play that much! It'll be like having NO suspension though!

^^ remember you need to cut the bumps stops when lowering though ... in between the first and second bump...

thats true but thats on hell of a ride

I don't think I want to lower anymore. I bet my system would skip like nuts.

Not necessarily. If you get low enough, on to your bumps stops they wont come into play that much! It'll be like having NO suspension though!

Even after you properly cut the bump stop where its suppose to be done, the only way you will hit it is if your cutting coils out of your springs. Coilovers are only designed to go to 3" below factory level and even then you will not touch it. You would have to be a stupid ass to even try to be this low. The ideal drop on J-bodys is 1.4" to where the A-arm is parellel with the ground. Anything more than its considered an agressive drop. It puts more stress on the CV shaft.

I don't think I want to lower anymore. I bet my system would skip like nuts.

You should ask someone that owns lowered a car and did the drop themselves oversome who just relays messages that they have read and has no idea on what the ride feels like. I have ridden in an 00 sunfire with Goldline springs (1.7 F, 2.3 R) and KYB GR-2 struts. This ride was really good and the tires were always planted on the road and the bumps were a bit hard but his alpine deck never skipped once. Currently i have dropzone(1.7 F, 2.3 R) on factory struts. The ride is extremly bouncy because i don't have revavled struts to compensate for the higher spring rate. Note the fact i hate the bounce, my deck has only skipped once and it was when i hit a rather large pot hole and blew my crappy stock tire. If you do a good setup spring wise and strut combination you will be surprised on how much better your car will feel and handle. I already have my new setup for the spring whick will be Eibach Prokit(1.4") with KYB GR-2's. This setup so far has run me $550 bucks.

if i got another lowerning kit i would get tin (i think thats how its spelled) lowering springs with the air balance ajuster to smooth out the ride i rode in a 03? dodge srt4 with that and the ride was so smooth you could set a wine glass on the back bench with out it spilling and that was a 2.0 inch drop

if i got another lowerning kit i would get tin (i think thats how its spelled) lowering springs with the air balance ajuster to smooth out the ride i rode in a 03? dodge srt4 with that and the ride was so smooth you could set a wine glass on the back bench with out it spilling and that was a 2.0 inch drop

You means TEIN. they're $1300 though for the full coilovers!

My sony deck only skipped once. But that was after I got air off of a railroad crossing!!!! I wont do that again though! I hit my head on the roof where I came out of the seat and though that my car probably didn't like it either.

would a camber kit be necessary?

^^^ No... but you do need an alignment ASAP.

would a camber kit be necessary?


The easist way to tell if you are running cambered from your new springs and in turn will waer the inner edge of your tires out more quickly is to drive for about a mile and then using a surface thermometer take a reading from the innner edge, the centre and the outer edge. If it drops from inside to out (out being coolest) you have negative camber, if it's constant it's ok, if it's warmest on the outer edge you some how have gotten positive camber! Any change in ride height will alter the camber to the negative but dependin on how low you go will determine the degree of camber. If you don't test temps and the inner edge wears quicker, a camber kit will save you money on tires! The kit would have to be adjusted professionally unless you have a camber guage and know how to use it!