custom air intake

i own a 1995 aurora and i was wondering if the cold air intakes that are on ebay are the real deal or if they are cheap fakes.Because the ones that i have seen cost alot more then $50.If there are any air intakes for the aurora that any one would recomend please let me know and where to buy them at.

As you'll see on other threads in this forum, many people do a custom type air box instead of a cool air intake. You can gut the stock airbox to allow for more air flow and add a K&N. I believe peple have compared it to bought CAI kits and not seen much difference. The CAI kits seemingly pull hot air from the engine bay instead of being located away from the heat. You could possibly custom make something that locates an intake in the front air deflector. Just to try, you can always gut your airbox though...it doesn't cost barely anything Reove the white plastic piece and cut the box to fit the opening in the frame that it sets on. You can remove the resonator and cap it with a chopped off piece of black PVC from a hardware store. Remember to put the air temp sensor back on or you'll get an error.

Good luck

Removing the white air piece in the airbox creates air disturbance in the induction pipe. This air piece was designed to straighten the air out, aerodynmically induct from the side. Any modifications to the stock airbox has no performance gain. The only way to improve air induction is to install aluminum pipe, induct from the air dam. If your air box howls, the air induction is not straight therefore creating useless massive air redirections. Unless you replace the entire system, I would not make any modifications such as drilling or removing parts. You could pipe another KN from the air dam to the air storage tank inlet, or get a larger air storage tank. This creates a dual inlet system without modifying existing stock plumbing. Drilling holes in airbox only disturbs air flow by sucking hot air from under the hood. Decide for yourself.

Have any of you looked at this ?
http://caddyinfo.netgetgoing.com/dyno/4airboxtest.htm

I did this and noticed a distinct improvement in
the torque available at lower RPM.

Same here --- I did notice a difference after doing this mod.

"I've run some tests with 2 different paper filters driving in the rain and have not yet found any considerable increase of wetness on the filter. I do carry an extra stock air box just in case for a long highway drive in a down pour, but the modified box will probably do just fine."

Considerable increase of wetness? Not sure if I would chance this besides who has room for an extra box? Three HP? Not enough to justify.

A few quick notes to your previous comments,
Autohanaurora. Piping air into what you call
the air storage tank is not advisable unless you
relocate the ambient air sensor, which is in
the cover of the air filter box. You would be
mixing air into the flow after the sensor and this
will effect emissions control, sometimes significantly.
I say this because I worked on some of the
electronics used in the PCM's used in these
vehicles. I am aware of some of the
sensitivities, altough I did not work on the
firmware.

Another note about this "air storage tank". It
is a resonator. It's function is to muffle the
intake noise, as is the reason the air box inlet
is so small.

The air box modification listed at the caddyinfo
site has one opening up the fresh air inlet from
outside the engine compartment. If you are
certain that this is incorrect, you need to look
again. The air inlet comes from an opening into
the drivers side fender, which is pretty well isolated
from the engine compartment. It would be
very easy to pull the plastic shields off under-
neath and rig up a ram scoop to the front
air dam. I just have not done that.

In regards to power gain, I couldn't care less
about horse power gain. This engine suffers
from lack of low RPM torque. The torque
curve is strongly misbalanced. Opening up
breathability, both intake and exhaust will
not necessarily get you more power, but you
can modify the shape of the power/torque
curve. By raising the torque at lower RPM's
I am able to get much more responsive driving
around town, where most of use drive. I have
seen about 15% increase in gas mileage. All
for a effectively free modification.

GuMan

Very well explained, thanks, very well put. Appreciate the advise on the resonator, didn't even think about the sensor. As previously stated, the KN works fine for my purpose, noticed a slight increase on the upper end. Besides, if you really need the power, just buy the HO GTO...

GuMan, the lack of bottom end is something that I thought was just part of the package. Short storke = little on the bottom end. What did you do to get that much gain on the bottom?