oil loss????

For the last few months I have had small oil losses..... Now that it's winter I let my car run for about 5-10 mins to warm up OK well in the morning my wife goes out and starts it for me!! he he he
A few times I go out and it smells like oil burning out the exhaust but no blue smoke... I did a compression test a while back and from the results my rings are fine.... My pcv isn't able to allow oil into the int mani and the breather hose going to the intake pipe (B4 turbo) has catch can.... those used to be my oil problems....
I am not losing oil to the ground but am losing oil..... what could all the possible culprits be?

Thanks all!!!

valvestem seals. thats usually what it is if it only does it after sitting for awhile.

Whats a fixit price on that?
If I were to have them redone what else would be good to have done if they tear into the stem seals?

Yeah, it is probably valve stem seals. Jake replaced mine while he was down...you two might be able to work something out as well.

Cost of having it done at a dealer should be around $1k, because the head has to be pulled to do it. There is a tool called the Miller's Valve Spring Compressor that allows you to change the valve stem seals without removing the head. You still have to take off the intake and exhaust manis (minimally the exhaust manifold--you *might* not have to take off the intake mani). This tool is about $150, but I believe you could do it yourself it you had the tool.

Basically, after watching Jake do it, the process is:
-pull head (lol)
-use valve spring compressor with custom fabricated socket to compress valve spring
-use tiny magnetic rod or pliers to remove valve spring retainers
-remove valve spring
-remove valve
-remove valve stem seal
-replace with new valve stem seal
-proceed in reverse to put everything back together

With the Miller's Valve Spring Compressor, you just take off the valve cover. You then bolt the MVSC to the part of the head usually covered with the valve cover, then you can compress springs easily. You have to remove the valves from the exhaust mani ports in the head.

Be sure to keep in mind that you can drive the car for a while if this is a problem, especially if you are not seeing blue smoke! However, problems caused by burning oil are:
-getting too low on oil and starving the engine
-getting excessive oil baked on pistons, which causes knock

My car didn't blow lots of blue smoke. When I gave it a rev in neutral, a single puff would plume out of the exhaust. Do this test and see if you are getting any clouds of blue smoke.

Sorry for the novel, but I hope this helps shed some light on the problem. With the Miller's Valve Spring Compressor, it really shouldn't be that difficult of a job IMO.

>>EDIT: Shit I almost forgot--check your turbo for shaft play as well. You could be burning oil in/around the turbo. So don't assume the worst yet! ;)

Since its winter now I don't have the chance of really gettin under my cars hood.....
Yeah jake isn't to far away from me so maybe we could work out a weekend or sumthin......
Need some dough first...and as for the turbo it does have some shaft play and I do plan on replacing it asap...$$$...
Thanks for the rundown JOE!!!!!!!!!

Sure, man--no problem. Check the turbo first...

If you do end up needing to do the valve stem seals, I did this at the same time:
-bought a full 4g63 engine gasket set ($140 from PartsDinosaur on ebay--made by ITM Components and includes HG, VC Gasket, injector o-rings, turbo mounting gaskets, and everything)
-bought ARP head studs ($95 on ebay)

The ITM Components OEM style composite headgasket seems to have sealed well (thanks, Jake ;)), despite me not getting the head resurfaced. If you go with a metal HG instead, you might want to think about a resurfacing. The new HG and ARP head studs have held 20 psi on the EvoIII 16g just fine so far...and you'll have extra gaskets in the kit for replacing any other pesky problems that occur down the road (injector o-rings, crank/oil pump sprocket seals, oil pan gasket, etc.)

Are the ARP head studs needed? I'm gonna look into the gasket set....$$$ permitting....
I PM'd jake about helpin out.... so hopefully....

Hey JOE....or anyone else....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7939687187&category=33665
This is listed for 89-94 for the 4G63T... just to make sure.... I know the engine is the same from 1st gen to 2nd gen except for exhaust manifold, turbo, and TB....is this the kit I would need?
It's only about $80+ w/ship...

I believe you need the kit intended for the 2g motors. Jake or Kevin can correct me if I'm wrong, but there are subtle differences in the 1g vs. 2g heads...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33665&item=7939612212&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

It's only $20 more...

The ARP head studs are not *needed*. If I remember correctly, you are planning a turbo upgrade down the road; doing the ARP head studs now will be insurance that when you crank up the boost with a bigger turbo, you don't blow your HG by lifting your stock head studs.

Cool... thanks joe...
I PM'd jake but no word back yet....