*B20B Questions*

Ok im always asking repetitive questions, that cuz im not asking everything I wanna ask because I keep thinking up new things, anyway. I basically want a good motor, money doesnt matter at all because im doin this lil project in sections, saving up then buying. I have a whole shopping list from the block to the bolts. Basically I want a motor that will be able to be a lil quicker than an ls/vtec crx. My friends are already planning on getting b18(ls/vtec) and an integra gsr for the other friend. I want something different, so im going with crvtec turbo. They are all going to add turbo, I know the b20 has thin walls, which i plan on resleeving, but I just wanted to know how much the B20B weighs compared to the B18. That and why do people always choose the b18b and the b18c over the b20b? I know its because of the thin walls, but all you have to do is relseeve for like 1500 right? Anyway I want to get a crvtec into a 92-95 civic hatch with a t3/t4 turbo boosted up to around 28psi for a daily driver, I know its not safe to drive around with 28psi but I mean when im racing ill turn it up to 28. So uh all together will it be a pretty good street car, a crvtec with around 28psi? I know traction issues and what not, juss need peoples advice. Thanx if you took your time to read this, if anyone is interested in helping me out and checking out my shopping list lemme know.

they should weigh almost the same(not a big difference). the b20b walls are thin, and theyre of siamese design. the b20b also cost more to resleeve then the 1.8l's if you really want to be different go with k24 crv turbo :)

If you're sleeving a B18 is a better choice than a B20. Stronger lower sleeves, and it will cost less.

For starters, I would suggest a turbo stock LS motor. You'd probably soil yourself in a 250 WHP car, so start off easy.

PM integralover, he has that swap and as far as i know he likes it. he'll tell you everything you need to know about the swap.

as for the turbo... you're going to have to resleave, get new pistons and rods, new injectors, programed ECU, the whole turbo system...turbo, downpipe, intercooler, exhaust manifold, blah blah blah. 28psi is an insane amount of boost but if you have the money go for it. the forced induction forums is going to be your best bet for that question.

wtf are you guys talking about. it wont cost more to resleeve a b20 vs a b18b. its all the same.

also original poster guy, you say you want 28psi. first of all dont give us a psi, give us a hp number because 28psi will give different hp depending on the turbo.

also think about fuel. at 28psi you will need to run race gas, so are you willing to run race gas all the time, or do you plan on switching between pump and race gas. if so you will need 2 different tunes because a motor tuned for pump gas wont be tuned for race gas and will run lean. so if you want to run both you need to have 2 different tunes.

ya i know this is gunna take a while and alot of moeny im thinkin around 10-15,000$ all together. i plan on getting it sleeved by aebs, on there site it says 1475 for sleeves, so its not as much as i thought it would be, im just gunna drop the motor in and drive around with it w/bolt ons for a while, then ill save up and when i have all the parts ill put them all on, tune it and go.

ya i know, my bad i meant to add in the hp goal, well i was looking at around 350-400whp, if its gunna need race gas then screw it. i just want as much power that i can get out of a turbo b20 on the highest pump gas.

it will take more then 15k to build this, well i mean 15k for the motor and turbo but then all the other things you need for the chassis to get it legal for the track, look to spend around 25k total

400whp is possible on pump gas, whats the highest octane you have ?

you also wont need 28psi to get to 400whp. that can be done at under 20psi.

ooo, ok, well i think around here its 93, i think im not sure. but i have a huge shopping list but i cant find it on any of the forums so if anyone wants to check it out lemme know. i have prices for each of them and so far it only comes up to around 9 or 10k, but thats without suspension, shipping, and tax which will prolly come up to another 2 or 3k. o ya and what kinda stuff would i need to get my chassis legal?

depending on the turbo... i would say right around 20psi. with 91-93 octane gas. it isn't necessarily true that he would need race gas for 28psi. do you realize how much horsepower that is? and money you'll be spending? unless you're rich and like playing with cars, why not buy a newer/better/faster car? dont get me wrong, i love imports, obviously, but throwing that kind of money around is kind of pointless. twin turbo a vette and roughly 700hp and i guarentee you'll kill anyone on the street. i'm not trying to discourage you but i don't know if you realize how much time/money that's going to be just for some ponies.

ya i know, the money cost and all that, I plan on getting a precision sc60 turbo. ive always had this thought but couldnt word it so im gunna try. its all about wat you want, and how much money u want to spend, no cars faster than the other one. cuz ive seen civics beat vipers, vettes, and supras with about the same amount of money put into the car, that youd buy one of those cars for.

on 93 octane if you have a good tuner, you should be able to get 400whp. i dont understand, you have a huge shopping list but u cant find it on the forum ? i dont get it.

to get your chassis legal to race on teh track, if you go 11s, youll need a roll cage, helmet, 5 point harness, fire jacket, scattershield. thats all i can think of. you should be able to find the requirements on the internet somewhere

yeah it all depends on the turbo when you hit yoru mark. 1 of my friends made 495whp at 22psi, another made 415whp at 15psi.

according to Jeff from IB it costs $100 more to resleeve the B20. he uses Golden Eagle sleeves. B18B will cost $750 shipped
B20 will cost $850 shipped. Its $100 more.

28psi is possible on pump fuel, but youll be lagging and measures taken to prevent detonation would probally decrease power then if you were to run race fuel or decrease boost. there's a guy running ~20psi on 10:1 pistons and pump fuel in Honda Tuning, hes making around 400whp i think.

oh also upon further research i found that those thigns i listed for 11s might only be for 11.49 and lower, so i would do some research on that or maybe if you just want to build your car then take it to the track to see how fast it goes then get the safety equpment they tell you to get

ight, well i dont really plan on taking it to the track all that much, prolly like 3 or 4 times a year. i dunno if 400 is too much for the street, because in chorpus christi they open up an air strip for people to race on. so thats the only track type thing il be on.

B20B Block
B18C1 Head
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears
Custom Exhaust
B18B or B18C Transmission
GSR Throttle Body
JG Intake Manifold
P75 ECU (this or an OBD1 GSR ECU?)
B-Series Motor Mounts
HA Sport Shift Linkage
8.5mm Spark Plugs
Integra Axles
Exedy Stage 3 Kit
ACT Prolite Flywheel
B17/B16 Throttle Cable
Hondata ECU Chip w/boost option
AEM Adjustable Cam Gears
AEBS sleeves
CP 9:1 Pistons
Crower Rods
Crower Valves
Crower B18C Valve Springs
Crower Titanium Retainers
ARP Head Studs
Stage 2 Turbo Crower Cams
Blitz Turbo Timer
Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller
Precision SC60 Turbo
Intercooler Kit
Tial 40mm Wastegate
Turbo Manifold
3” Down pipe
Blitz BOV
AEM Fuel Rail
RC 750cc fuel injectors
Quaife LSD
Walbro 255lph Kit


**Found the other list** What axles do you suggest I get?

i see a lot of off prices but just remember, with cars, everything will ALWAYS cost more, and take more time to do than expected. that phrase has never proved me wrong yet

true, i know this is gunna be a while, but its just a long-term project.

if your under 400whp with a crvtec at 28psi. i dont know what to say to you.

you listed cams and flywheel twice. why are you going with a 8 cr, thats way too low. go with 9 cr. those raxle axles probably wont last to the power you plan on putting down. if you plan on running multiple psi levels, you dont need cam gears because one setting wont be the same setting for lower psi. aebs are expensive sleeves, go with benson sleeves cheaper and just as good. you never listed a intake mani or tb.

ya, my list isnt all the way done, this is the older one, i lost , my updated one, I plan on going with a jg or the type r manifold, and the gsr tb. ya i just thought 28psi because ive seen people barely hitting 450 with 28psi. i dunno if I said it but the hp goal was to the wheels. also i figured thats prolly waay too much for the street, and i know im prolly gunna be fixing it more than driving it. so i figured watever 15-20psi gets me on that sc60 turbo. i wanna just keep it at one psi level just to kill most of the confusion. also on the other list i had 9:1 cp pistons, cuz i read 8:1 was way too low.

300whp is pretty much the limit on street tires, and you could run that much hp on your stock block

Don't fuck around with a B20 block. LS blocks are cheaper and more plentiful in the JY's, and B20 blocks use a different sleeve design that makes them inherently weaker. Run a GSR or ITR/B16 trans long before a B18B trans.

yup ls blocks are more plentiful than b20 blocks i own 2 ls blocks, and the only difference is a bigger bore and a vtec oil pump.

if you end up going with the crvtec, a gsr or b16 trans would be a perfect trans for that

ok, well i wanted to go with the crvtec because of torque, and my best friends getting an ls/vtec. i just wanted to know if it mattered what OBD the head is. I know the car would be obd1, the block obd2 and the head is obd0, how would I go about hooking all this up, also which ecu should I go with? and since im only gunna go for about 300-350hp what would I need to do to the internals, just to make sure, im relseeving no matter what just for backup.

it dpends on your engine management. if you want to go hondata, uberdata. then you need to go obd1. idk how well a obd0 head will fit a obd1 dist.

it also depends on the build of hte motor and how high you plan on revving. since your resleeving, i think you can spend alittle extra on rods. i would suggest pauter rods, and cp pistons. since you plan on getting cams, you will need full valvetrain to go with it.

if you do get a good sized turbo, with a crvtec and cams you should reach 350whp with low boost.

the distributors should be interchangable. just match the distributor obd to the ecu obd. i suggest going with obd1 because they have pretty good ecu's for those years..

ok, well i wanted to go with the crvtec because of torque, and my best friends getting an ls/vtec. i just wanted to know if it mattered what OBD the head is. I know the car would be obd1, the block obd2 and the head is obd0, how would I go about hooking all this up, also which ecu should I go with? and since im only gunna go for about 300-350hp what would I need to do to the internals, just to make sure, im relseeving no matter what just for backup.

LS = B20

The reason the B20 makes more torque than the LS is because it's an 84MM bore, and the LS is an 81MM bore. If you have an LS sleeved and bored to 84MM, it's functionally identical to a B20.

For 350 HP you don't need to sleeve it. My car makes a little over 300 WHP at 14 pounds of boost, and I'm on a totally stock LS motor, it's my daily driver. I have several friends pushing over 400 WHP on LS, GSR, and a B16 block with new pistons and rods in stock sleeves. Detonation is what kills sleeves, not horsepower.

so a sleeved b20 is more lickely to crack before a sleeved ls motor? also what ecu should i use? the p61, the p72, or a different one? o ya and what all could i use to get traction?

no, if theyre both sleeve then they should hold up just as well as the other. for the ecu, which OBD do you want? but of the ones you listed, and are going to tune it, go for the P61. the P72 should be identical except that it has IAB control(you dont need it unless you want to use a intake manifold with that function).

oh and for traction, get a gearbox with a stock LSD(the Type-R's) or a Quaife aftermarket LSD. if you drag then a clutch-type LSD will work(ATS, Cusco, etc.). Stay away from differential "modifiers" like the Phantom Grip. also pick a set of good tires. www.tirerack.com has reviews of the tires and that will help make your decision. also if you use Uberdata(i dont know if Hondata has this), but there's a feature called Full Throttle Launch. It lets you floor it but keeps the rpm at a preset level(ie 5000rpm). a good suspension will also help you grip.

u just need a obd1 vtec ecu, could be a p28 if you want and it will be cheaper.

get an lsd of some kind. quaife is the best and hte most expensive, get good tires, traction bars help with wheel hop.

hondata does has FTL as well as uberdata. hondata has more functions then uberdata.

u just need a obd1 vtec ecu, could be a p28 if you want and it will be cheaper.

get an lsd of some kind. quaife is the best and hte most expensive, get good tires, traction bars help with wheel hop.

hondata does has FTL as well as uberdata. hondata has more functions then uberdata.

What options does Hondata have that Uberdata doesnt?

not sure about what exactly hondata has that uber doesnt.

hondata has something thats better than uber that involves datalogging, it doesnt support romulator. i know there are more but i just cant think of them right now.

there is also a new program out, neptune. suppose to be really good

would i need a throttle cable for this swap? or could i use the stock one?

I have another question, when im done with the crvtrec swap, and i add on some stuff, like a header, bigger injectors, and prolly sum cams, do I have to get it tuned? And what shops do that? Just local shops?

technically once you add a part or adjust anything, you should have it retuned. call hondata and ask them for a dealer near you

even if im not even using hondata theyll tune it for me? because im just going to have basic stuff, then later on when I have the money I will use hondata with my turbo setup.

what do are you talking about when you say basic ? also you cant tune anything unless you have a tunable engine management like hondata. so no they wont tune it if you dont have a hondata ecu because you cant tune you motor without something that is able to change fuel and timing maps. hondata dealers usually dont like to tune with anything else other than hondata so yeah

ooo, well i meant like cams, header, intake, prolly pistons too but thats not so basic. how much would getting hondata and getting it tuned cost? also when I switch to my turbo setup, can i still use the same hondata chip?

i would only tune for cams and pistons, not intake and header. you should be able to use the same chip, they would just burn a new program onto your new tune, but then again i dont own a hondata ecu so i dont know

www.hondata.com, then tuning usually cost around 400

its dyno tuning isnt it? so the cost of the chip, which i take it I buy it from a local dealer and they tune it, plus the cost of the tune. I would only need to tune it once right? unless i changed the parts again of course. the reason im askin all this is because im doing the crvtec swap, and i just want around 160-170hp n/a justo keep up with some of the stock ls and b16 hatches. would i be able to get this amount with 11:5 pistons? or would getting 12:5 pistons do any better horsepower wise? when i get cams and pistons do i need rings,, valves and rods?

yeah dyno tuning. you need to tune on a dyno to get max power. yes you should only need to retune if you change anything on the motor. yes you want to change your rings too, when you get a cam, its a good idea to get a new valvetrain, but also if you get big cams you need the right valvetrain. 11.5 should be more than enough to break 170whp but you would make more power with a 12 cr. rods, well most go with eagle rods, i guess they will do ok.

so stock rods wit arp bolts wont work? also i think the 12:5 and the 11:5 pistons are the same price, so whats the downfall of me getting the 12:5 ones?

stock rods with arp rod bolts will work. with 12.5 pistons if you have a big cam, it may hit hte pistons and your reaching the limits of pump gas and streetability. with 11.5 you dont need to worry about hitting the pistons with the valves and its streetable and not at the limits of pump gas. do they have 12 pistons ? that would be a good compromise. i mean if your valves clear the pistons then its ok to run it. make sure you get it tuned good

ight thanx, but I konw that the stock pistons hit the valves on a vtec head when the cam timing is adjusted, but would it do the same with the aftermarket pistons? Or am I going to need new valves? I dont plan on getting big cams, either crower or skunk2.

Another question, when doing the crvtec swap, would I still have to change the block to OBD-1? I am going to be using an OBD 1 vtec head. I just dont know if there is anything that makes the block OBD 2. Also, would I have to retard the timing or anything when just slapping on the vtec head, since the cams are different from the stock B20 cams?