Dash Lights issue 99 Blazer LS

I have an issue with my dash lights where I was driving and all of a sudden all indicator lights light, speedometer drops from 70 to 30 etc. and as quickly as it happened, it was restored back to normal.

I was driving at 70 mph, no change in operation of motor, no codes left as I have a scan device to check the codes, all operation works fine, gauges work fine....

I have concluded that since the instrument cluster has a logic chip in it, that due to the cold or connection it just flaked out. I have owned car since new and it's happened twice in 156K...

I just don't know what it could be but wondered if it has happened to others.....I don't want to replace the instrument cluster if I don't have to, but if there is something simple to check....

To give you a mental image it looked like it went through the 2-second start up routine where all the lights came, then went away..

I also had a CarChip E/X on it and it recorded no irregularities so I think the sensors / operation was all normal...

Weird...any ideas would be appreciated !!

Thanks

Sounds like a connection problem to the instrument panel.

Make sure all the connections are nice and tight and corrosion free.

Wan't to hear an amazing coincidence... my '98 Blazer just did almost the exact same thing (was going steady 60mph instead of 70), and it was also while I had a CarChip (not EX) installed.

From the CarChip WebSite:

General Motors Vehicles
Early CarChip models may cause some or all of the dashboard lights in some General Motors vehicles to flash occasionally. To resolve this issue, update your CarChip to the latest firmware. Instructions for checking your CarChip's firmware version and downloading the CarChip firmware updater are located on our Automotive Support Page.

Ah, sounds like we have a common problem, good to see we have a direction to go to.

Is this carchip a performance enhancing chip?

The CarChip is a datalogger that plugs into the ALDL on cars with OBDII. It can retrieve or clear trouble codes as well as monitor driving habits (if you have a teenager you suspect may be driving a little too agressively). It'll also take a snapshot of some sensor readings when a trouble code is generated. The E/X model that TonyMazz has is a little more useful than mine in that it can be programmed to record up to 4 parameters at a time (other than speed) while you drive to help pinpoint issues with a particular component. Both hook up to a PC to download all this data, of course.

Nice , good to know.

Never heard about it before until now.

Hmmm....interesting...matter-of-fact I had the carchip on both times it did this....

Can you post the URL for that article...as I went to the davis products and could not find it...i'd be interested in learning more.....

Thank You Thank You !!! Went out to the site and upgraded my firmware on the CarChip and the PC Software...hope that helps. You saved me a bunch of trouble in dinkin around with the dash board...never even thought of the carchip...

What a great forum ......!!!!

If the problem every happens again, I would suggest removing it before it causes permanent damage to something.

Well as I mentioned earlier, I flashed the firmware on the CarChip thinking that it would remedy the problem....

Well it didn't I still got the flashing lights, tach shoots to zero, all the indicator lights come on....then things go back to normal...weird.

There is no performance change in the car , there are no codes set in computer, I am thinking that is has to do with the compatibility with the IPC logic chip in instrument panel.

Long story short...each time it has happened (3) I have had the carchip installed.

I have pulled it (as suggested) and no reoccurrance of problem, nor has it ever happened in 6 years of owning truck...

So BEWARE when using aCarChip

This is an awesome forum. I was hooked after the DIY solder fix for the wiper circuit board saved me hours (of shopping) and $$$s. Bummer about the flash update not correcting the issue with the CarChip though. Have you notified the manufacturer about this? Maybe they can come up with a better fix?

Well as I mentioned earlier, I flashed the firmware on the CarChip thinking that it would remedy the problem....

Well it didn't I still got the flashing lights, tach shoots to zero, all the indicator lights come on....then things go back to normal...weird.

There is no performance change in the car , there are no codes set in computer, I am thinking that is has to do with the compatibility with the IPC logic chip in instrument panel.

Long story short...each time it has happened (3) I have had the carchip installed.

I have pulled it (as suggested) and no reoccurrance of problem, nor has it ever happened in 6 years of owning truck...

So BEWARE when using aCarChip

Smart man, better that then a computer blowing out on you.

You did the right thing.

Well I called the company and seems there are many recorded incidents of this type with CarChip E/X.

I gave them an indication that their product is under scrutiny in the Automotive Forum and they should fix it....alot of folks look at this forum...

They appreciated the feed back and sent the engineers a copy of my ticket / request and will be getting a call back in 1 week informing me if there is something that can be done.....

So does this company want negative press via this forum or do they want to fix the chip so others get turned on and use it to...


We'll see.....

Stand by.... :-)

good good,

This should have them working on it.

Please post your own question on this seeing it doesn't involve the same problem as the thread starter had.

Post here if you want, but you individual problem won't be seen.

I am helping you get the attention you problem requires.

i just started using this thing and i must say it's all a bit confusing to me right now but i really need help with a problem i've been having.

I hav a 92 s10 blazer which has been vibrating pretty much randomly for about two years. I have just now started to try to have it worked on but every body tells me it's something different and usaually when the mechanics drive it, it won't even do it. I have been told that it's the torque converter as well as the rear wheel bearings but i don't know whether or not to trust either mechanic. please help, email me at [email protected]

thank you

i just started using this thing and i must say it's all a bit confusing to me right now but i really need help with a problem i've been having.

I hav a 92 s10 blazer which has been vibrating pretty much randomly for about two years. I have just now started to try to have it worked on but every body tells me it's something different and usaually when the mechanics drive it, it won't even do it. I have been told that it's the torque converter as well as the rear wheel bearings but i don't know whether or not to trust either mechanic. please help, email me at [email protected]

thank you

You see this icon http://files.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/newthread.gif (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/newthread.php?f=119)

Press that icon button and then type in your question that you just did above.

Your question in this thread will not get the help that you need, it's totally off topic.

Perhaps BlazerLT can use his moderator's tools and split the thread into a new one. With vBulletin, that is possible, among many other things.

Well I called them and talked with a few folks there, and mentioned that others are having the same issue with the blink dash lights as explained way back on the top of this thread.

They have taken down my VIN number and are working on a revision or firm ware upgrade. They mentioned that others owning GM cars/trucks complained of the same thing.....

They expect to create a new firm ware version/update once the problem is solved......

Just thought that you'd be interested as progress continues......

Excellent, keep us posted.

FYI still on the trail of the CarChip E/X.....here is the latest from the tech support at Davis.....


From what we heard from Engineering, the 1.5 firmware was supposed to address
the problem we sent an E/X out to a site that has a 1999 Blazer and it
actually worked for a while. Then the problem came back. Thus, Engineering is
back at the drawing board and are working on the problem. There is no ETA at
this time. I will forward your email to them just to warm up the pot a bit
and see if they can turn up the wick. Hopefully a long term solution will be
released soon.

Best Regards and thanks for your patience,
Bob Fischer
Davis Instruments
Technical Support

I almost bought one of those from AutoZone. After reading this I'm glad I didn't, let us know when the problem is fixed and I might consider getting one again. While talking to them, how about asking if they plan on making one that will alllow you to interface your computer with the vehicle and view real time data.

Well as time moves forward and being as relentless as I am ....I have been following up on this issue.

I have been working with the technical folks at Davis and have sent me a new firmware upgrade for testing.

I have recieved this upgrade and will be testing this..hopefully it will resolve my 'twinkling' dash lights issue.....

Apparently it has to do with calls to the computer and timing with the class 2 communications from updates on sensors .....

..anyway...we'll see how it goes and will update.....Just in case anyone is interested.....

:smokin:

Excellent......

TMazz... I just solved a problem on a 98 Jimmy, which had several manifestations, ONE of which was the guages zeroing out momentarily at any speed.
Seems there's a solenoid in the steering column that gets energized by the ignition switch, and this solenoid controls several circuits, including the instrument cluster. It shorts out and your guages might zero (or you might get other malfunction indications), but the motor fire isn't affected, so you keep goin'...
Before you dump any green, wait to see if it's this ign. switch problem. It won't strand you anywhere, since the starter circuit, and the ignition coil circuit are supposedly not affected.

cbec1999.
What is this soleniod? I am having a somewhat sililar problem that is effecting all of my guages and other things.

There is no solenoid on the switch, there is only an ignition switch with multiple contacts inside. The contacts inside go bad and cause problems on the related circuits. Anything that is controlled through the ignition switch can experience problems. Depending on which contacts are bad...some things may be messed up and others may function normally.

The solenoid is merely a little thing that locks the position of the key lock cylinder (the part you put the key in). The key lock cylinder and the ignition switch are two separate things.

Thanks for the update Tony.


Have you asked them if they plan on making one that you can connect to a laptop and see real time data?

Thanks for the update Tony.


Have you asked them if they plan on making one that you can connect to a laptop and see real time data?


No I haven't recieved a response...but they DO have a Software Developers Kit interface for download on their web site.

So far the new v1.511 firmware upgrade works perfectly after 130 miles....I am going to leave it on and see how it goes...

This thing is handy and is how I actually diagnosed that my thermostat was keeping motor at 179-188 degrees......MPG went down....so I swapped out and got it back up to 194.7-195 range and mpg went back up....was only a minor change on the dash gauge.....

Blazee...I will ask again on the interactive portion.....and keep you updated..

Update - Reply back from Davis is that they have no immeadiate plans for interactive interface with car computer in the near future. The SDK interface only allows modifications to the existing 23 parameters not adding any new ones.....

Hey JoulesW...
I'm not exactly sure what the solenoid is... I haven't seen a parts schematic yet. Nor can I take the credit, so here's a copy of another post pertinent to the problem...

The ignition switch causes shift problems, because it doesn't supply power to the tranny on circuit 1020. The same problems can be caused by an aftermarket remote start that was either connected wrong, or has developed a broken connection causing it not to energize circuit 1020 when the device is used. A problem with the remote start is easily diagnosed, if the problem occurs only when the remote start is used and functions normally when started by the key. A problem with the ignition switch or remote start not supplying power to circuit 1020 will set one or all of the following codes: P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, and P1860. This condition will put the tranny in "limp home mode". This mode raises fluid pressure to maximum causing hard shifts when going into reverse and hard 1-2 shifts. After the initial shift into 3rd the tranny will stay in 3rd regardless of speed, this includes take-off. Taking off in 3rd can easily be mistaken as a loss of horsepower or tranny slippage. Leading you to believe the damage is far worse than just a simple loose wire. That is how some people really get screwed by tranny shops.

That was the end of the post. It said nothing of the guage lights, but when I cleared my DTC codes by unpluggin' the battery, all the problems went away, until the switch shorted again. The switch (not the keyed lock cylinder, but the under-column switch, which is activated by the turned key, is what's faulty.

Hey JoulesW...
I'm not exactly sure what the solenoid is... I haven't seen a parts schematic yet. Nor can I take the credit, so here's a copy of another post pertinent to the problem...

The ignition switch causes shift problems, because it doesn't supply power to the tranny on circuit 1020. The same problems can be caused by an aftermarket remote start that was either connected wrong, or has developed a broken connection causing it not to energize circuit 1020 when the device is used. A problem with the remote start is easily diagnosed, if the problem occurs only when the remote start is used and functions normally when started by the key. A problem with the ignition switch or remote start not supplying power to circuit 1020 will set one or all of the following codes: P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, and P1860. This condition will put the tranny in "limp home mode". This mode raises fluid pressure to maximum causing hard shifts when going into reverse and hard 1-2 shifts. After the initial shift into 3rd the tranny will stay in 3rd regardless of speed, this includes take-off. Taking off in 3rd can easily be mistaken as a loss of horsepower or tranny slippage. Leading you to believe the damage is far worse than just a simple loose wire. That is how some people really get screwed by tranny shops.

So what wire supplies circuit 1020?
My truck totally died on the way home yesterday.
After I got a jump I made it home and checked the alternator by removing the battery ground and it seemed to work fine. Also I checked all the larger wires on the ignition switch and they were fine.
Not sure what to do now. The fuse is blown for the guages. But why? When I put in a new one everything seemed to work.

Joules,
The post that cbec1999 is quoting is one that I posted for someone having tranny problems. Circuit 1020 is the tranny circuit. You only need to worry about it if you are experiencing tranny problems.

A faulty ignition switch can cause problems with anything that is routed through it. Which is basically almost everything. Some things can function normally and others be totally screwed up. The most common problems are tranny problems, flickering gauges, random misfires, stalling, and the starter not engaging while attempting to start the engine.

If you start your own thread, we can help you there. It isn't nice to hi-jack Tony's thread.

Update - Reply back from Davis is that they have no immeadiate plans for interactive interface with car computer in the near future. The SDK interface only allows modifications to the existing 23 parameters not adding any new ones.....

Thanks.

You can still only monitor 4 parameters at a time...right?

Thanks.

You can still only monitor 4 parameters at a time...right?


yep....and some of the 23 parameters available on the chipE/X are not supported by the Blazer ECM. I am still experimenting on which ones....

The good news is they have dramatically improved the software interface where you can graph / compare by trip various parameters between trips etc.....

Sorry, no hijack intended.
I was just wondering about the "solenoid".

Thanks for the TSB schematic!
You said to TMazz that circuit 1020 controls only tranny functions. Could be. BUT... my Chilton's (which I question sometimes) shows 'instrument cluster' on the same circuit as 'tranny range switch', and transfer case control module'. So are you sure that 1020 controls only tranny functions?

It supplies other things, too. I never said it only controls tranny functions. I said it is the tranny circuit. It is one of the many circuits supplied through the ignition switch. If the switch doesn't supply power to it nothing on the circuit will work. If the tranny doesn't have problems then the circuit is fine. Why are you having such a hard time understanding this? I have answered these same questions for you repeatedly in several threads, I have told you the same thing in the emails you keep sending me, and I've even sent you a TSB with all the info. What seems to be the comprehension problem? You took what I said out of one thread where it was relevent, then copy and pasted it in about 30 different threads. Now I have 2 dozen people sending me PMs wanting me to explain it to them and it has nothing to do with their problems. Quit posting shit that you don't understand. NOT EVERY TRANNY PROBLEM IS CAUSED BY THE F*CKING SWITCH!

When you find out, PLEEEEEEASE let me know. My 98 Blazer is doing the same thing and I have no clue as to the problem. I'm not sure if it is a common problem. I didn't see many threads about it.