Rear Defroster fusible link

My rear defroster does not work. When I press the button for the defroster it just pops back out. I already checked the fuse under the dash and it was good. I checked my Chilton book and it seems to show that the wires for the rear defroster come off of the engine control module. Is this where the fusible link is located? The book says the fusible link is located in the wiring harness for the rear defroster, but where is this wiring harness. I can't find it. Is it in the engine compartment or somewhere on the inside of the car? If anyone knows, please help me. It is winter and snowing and I need to get this fixed as soon as possible and I don't want to take it to the dealer for something that sounds like a simple repair. One more thing. When replacing the fusible link, the book says the wires that you butt together need soldered afterwards. Is this really necessary? I thought thats what solderless connctors were for. Thanks for any help

Need vehicle information....Year, Model, Engine etc., but most of the time the fusible link is attached to the starter solonoid located on the L/H inner fender. A 'yellow' wire will be attached to one end of the fusible link going to the defroster. If the fusible link is fried, you will have to find the cause.
I always solder the joints using rosin core.
Hope this helps.
Alvin

Its a 1995 Escort LX wagon with a 1.9 liter 4 cylinder engine. What would cause it to blow anyway? I had this car for over 5 years and it worked fine and then one day it just didn't work anymore.

Its a 1995 Escort LX wagon with a 1.9 liter 4 cylinder engine. What would cause it to blow anyway? I had this car for over 5 years and it worked fine and then one day it just didn't work anymore.


I don't believe you have a problem with a fusible link. If you did, there would be more inoperable components.

You say the 15A fuse is good. There is also a rear window defroster relay on the fuse panel. Can you hear it 'click' when you push the defroster button (With ignition 'on' engine not running).
Also check the connector wire/s at the defroster grid (both ends) they have a habit of breaking in cold weather from the door being opened and closed. I suspect you have an 'open circuit'. not a short.
Alvin.

Ok, I'll take a look at those 2 things and I'll let you know how I make out.
Thanks for the help.

I checked the conections to the defroster grid and they looked good I also checked the relay. I can hear the defroster click when I push the button. Wolud it be a good idea to just replace the relay anyway?

I checked the conections to the defroster grid and they looked good I also checked the relay. I can hear the defroster click when I push the button. Wolud it be a good idea to just replace the relay anyway?

mrscott 1968,
Generally, if you hear the relay 'click' it's working. Does the indicator light in the buttom illuminate when you push the defroster button in?
Do you have a test light or a voltmeter? If so, with the ignition on, and the defroster button pushed in, test the two connectors at the rear window grid. Light will illuminate if voltage is present. If you use a VOM, the reading should be between 10 - 13V.
Alvin

Hello !

I've just joined the forum and I noticed your problem you had (or still have) with Ford Escort rear window defroster. I'm really curious if you found out the source of the problem ?

I've been experinecing similar problems for quite a while, not just defroster, but problems with rear wiper as well. Some facts; the wiper proplem has been annoying me for a couple of years, always in cold and damp weather, pronounced so in morning. Wiper just wouldn't react when switched on, until I hit some bump on the road and it would start to work again. The most obvious just didn't occur to me, until I found this forum and a reply from Greg Palmer about checking those three copper rods on the rear door (have a 5-door '98 Escort). I cleaned them and sanded them with a fine sand-paper, to my big surprise I even discovered that middle one gets stuck in upper position when I close the trunk door.

Quick reference about those copper rods; left-most one is for the wiper and tail fog light, the right one is just a switch for trunk light and the middle one...is the bad guy responsible for connecting voltage to defroster.

First what I did was I replaced relay behind fuse panel, thinking it's dead (no connection between any combination of relay pins), it turned out a waste of money since relay was switching just fine. Next I checked connections to defroster grid (OK) and the grid itself, using ohm-meter (reads 1 OHM). Fuse is also fine, but there's still no voltage on grid connectors with ignition ON.

If you found the remedy in the meantime, I would appreciate to hear what it was. Thank you.

Sebastian