Headlight Flicker Fixed by Cardboard
Renegade2k
01-18-2005, 10:26 PM
My headlights and all my electrical were fluctuating in below zero weather and the GM TSB says that replacing my alternator w/ a new redesigned one will fix problem. This actually got bad while I was out of town so I just put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator on the side w/ the alternator on and I haven't had the problem come up again yet.
2000 Intrigue 3.5 56,000
2000 Intrigue 3.5 56,000
paulkramer
01-19-2005, 08:09 AM
I solved my headlight flicker by trading my Intrigue in - on a 2002 Acura RSX.
Yes, I have finally gone to the other side.
Yes, I have finally gone to the other side.
ttbit
01-20-2005, 12:15 AM
I solved my headlight flicker by trading my Intrigue in - on a 2002 Acura RSX.
Yes, I have finally gone to the other side.
I went to a Lincoln LS. I had to try and stay domestic. :) ALMOST got a Maxima. I guess I'll wait until the Lincoln ticks me off. My wife really liked the Intrigue too. We were shocked that we had to get rid of it for multiple problems at 80k! That is usually the mileage where I buy my cars!!
Yes, I have finally gone to the other side.
I went to a Lincoln LS. I had to try and stay domestic. :) ALMOST got a Maxima. I guess I'll wait until the Lincoln ticks me off. My wife really liked the Intrigue too. We were shocked that we had to get rid of it for multiple problems at 80k! That is usually the mileage where I buy my cars!!
panzer dragoon
01-20-2005, 09:57 AM
this thread has gotten off of the main subject.
The question I will bring up is: If the original alternator design would have been recalled earlier how many of the problems on this forum would have been minimized by not having the voltage fluctuate so badly? This one item really minimized this car's chance for success.
All damaged by voltage fluctuation?
1. Headlight replacement, blinkers, tail-lights damaged.
2. Flasher circuit.
3. Crank and Cam sensors?
4. Fan motor and resistor controller.
5. Little switches like door ones
6. Transmission Circuit/Valve/control
etc
etc
I really had high hopes for this car being all my cars were from the 70's or earlier. My first V6, otherwise I always had V8s. The 3.5L was on the Wards 10 Best Engine list (1999?). Had power similar to my 1975 350 Olds Rocket Engine. Super smooth idle in the 3.5L. The baby Rocket.
I can be a little more upbeat about my car since I haven't had my tranny replaced yet (3 times?) But I can see little problems starting to surface.
Fixed so far:
Flasher circuit $30
Will need to be fixed:
Wiper circuit (a short somewhere-wipers go vertical when turned off-must keep them on)
Crank Position Sensor (2 sensors on same part 1 doesn't work causing a 1/4 sec stall at around 170 deg F engine temp when the sensor tries to switch over to the other.)
Alternator swap with new design.
Swapping the alternator for the new design will hopefully limit the many future little problems that could surface. In the mean time I like my car and have another 12 months to pay it off. For me the car is fixible and this forum helps me out alot. But if a fix is going to cost $2500+ it may soon be parted out. With 80K miles it's been a good car without any major work needed. Being a 2000 it's only worth about $5k. If I wasn't good at fixing stuff and had to bring the car in for service I would be having problems with it.
The question I will bring up is: If the original alternator design would have been recalled earlier how many of the problems on this forum would have been minimized by not having the voltage fluctuate so badly? This one item really minimized this car's chance for success.
All damaged by voltage fluctuation?
1. Headlight replacement, blinkers, tail-lights damaged.
2. Flasher circuit.
3. Crank and Cam sensors?
4. Fan motor and resistor controller.
5. Little switches like door ones
6. Transmission Circuit/Valve/control
etc
etc
I really had high hopes for this car being all my cars were from the 70's or earlier. My first V6, otherwise I always had V8s. The 3.5L was on the Wards 10 Best Engine list (1999?). Had power similar to my 1975 350 Olds Rocket Engine. Super smooth idle in the 3.5L. The baby Rocket.
I can be a little more upbeat about my car since I haven't had my tranny replaced yet (3 times?) But I can see little problems starting to surface.
Fixed so far:
Flasher circuit $30
Will need to be fixed:
Wiper circuit (a short somewhere-wipers go vertical when turned off-must keep them on)
Crank Position Sensor (2 sensors on same part 1 doesn't work causing a 1/4 sec stall at around 170 deg F engine temp when the sensor tries to switch over to the other.)
Alternator swap with new design.
Swapping the alternator for the new design will hopefully limit the many future little problems that could surface. In the mean time I like my car and have another 12 months to pay it off. For me the car is fixible and this forum helps me out alot. But if a fix is going to cost $2500+ it may soon be parted out. With 80K miles it's been a good car without any major work needed. Being a 2000 it's only worth about $5k. If I wasn't good at fixing stuff and had to bring the car in for service I would be having problems with it.
ibew112
03-26-2005, 04:38 PM
did you have GM replace your crankshaft sensor ? and perform the relearn process ? and did they replace both sensors or just the X7 sensor ? or did you do it ?
panzer dragoon
03-27-2005, 09:36 AM
I use alldatadiy.com for all my information. It costs about 20$ a year.
I have not replaced my CKP (crankshaft position) sensor yet. My car throws out the P0335 code which is means that sensor A of the CKP sensor (A+B on same sensor) is bad. I simply live with the fact that the car takes longer to start and that at 70 C or 158 F the car will have a blip in rpms that may cause a stall condition. I keep the car in second gear and the revs above 1.2K until the temp guage gets at least 1/2 of the first 1/4 (1/8). I will replace it this summer. The GM part is about $100 GM #10456594 --but why use the same part if it is going to fail again?
The CKP system variation learn procedure is supposed to be performed after the sensor is replaced, but my dad replaced the CKP sensor in a 2000 Saturn without using the learn procedure and it worked fine. It says that a scan tool is needed to is needed to enable the CKP learn procedure. Will a cheap Equus scanner or other ($120) do this? ---I don't know --I need to ask my dad or look it up on the internet.
I have not replaced my CKP (crankshaft position) sensor yet. My car throws out the P0335 code which is means that sensor A of the CKP sensor (A+B on same sensor) is bad. I simply live with the fact that the car takes longer to start and that at 70 C or 158 F the car will have a blip in rpms that may cause a stall condition. I keep the car in second gear and the revs above 1.2K until the temp guage gets at least 1/2 of the first 1/4 (1/8). I will replace it this summer. The GM part is about $100 GM #10456594 --but why use the same part if it is going to fail again?
The CKP system variation learn procedure is supposed to be performed after the sensor is replaced, but my dad replaced the CKP sensor in a 2000 Saturn without using the learn procedure and it worked fine. It says that a scan tool is needed to is needed to enable the CKP learn procedure. Will a cheap Equus scanner or other ($120) do this? ---I don't know --I need to ask my dad or look it up on the internet.
ibew112
03-27-2005, 10:29 AM
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=762&ptset=A&searchfor=Crank+Position+Sensor
here is a link for the sensor at shucks that is only $69 thanks for the response ill change mine today I think
here is a link for the sensor at shucks that is only $69 thanks for the response ill change mine today I think
BB1164
04-21-2005, 10:34 PM
You should know that there is a crankshaft and a
camshaft position sensor. The crankshaft position sensor is behind the starter. I got mine (AC Delco) from rockauto.com for $62.00 plus shipping. I belive the camshaft sensor is less exspensive. I'm installing this weekend. From everything I've read on the net most people just install and have no problems. If you do you'll probably have to take it in some where because you'll need a Tech II scan tool to do the relearn proceedure. My understanding is the tool sends a signal and then you need to rev the engine up to 4500 rpm then the
car turns off the injectors momentarily and the rpms drop. After a 15 second delay the senor is reset.
camshaft position sensor. The crankshaft position sensor is behind the starter. I got mine (AC Delco) from rockauto.com for $62.00 plus shipping. I belive the camshaft sensor is less exspensive. I'm installing this weekend. From everything I've read on the net most people just install and have no problems. If you do you'll probably have to take it in some where because you'll need a Tech II scan tool to do the relearn proceedure. My understanding is the tool sends a signal and then you need to rev the engine up to 4500 rpm then the
car turns off the injectors momentarily and the rpms drop. After a 15 second delay the senor is reset.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025