Heater Core Flush?

When you flush your entire system i thought your radiator would be flushed as well? I'm a noob.

Also, I've heard of getting a cracked upper plenum resulting in coolant leaking into engine for my 3800 series II. Also that certain gaskets are corroded over time and cause specific leaks. I was wondering if any of these coolant flushers/cleansing chemicals would damage the gaskets or if they are safe to use.

Also, I've heard of getting a cracked upper plenum resulting in coolant leaking into engine for my 3800 series II. Also that certain gaskets are corroded over time and cause specific leaks. I was wondering if any of these coolant flushers/cleansing chemicals would damage the gaskets or if they are safe to use.

The chemicals shouldn't hurt the gaskets, HOWEVER if you gasket is deteriated connecting a water hose and turning it on high pressure will.

You system runs at around 16psi, a normal water hose is around 40psi. If it leaks at 16 just imagine what it will do at 40.....

AHhhh...

Any easy roundabout way i can check for such leaks? or do i just have to hope for the best?

Not wanting to sound like a smartass, but... the best way to tell if you have a leak is to check you coolant level. If it is low or you have to add regularly then you have a leak. From what I have read on the forums of AF alot of the leaks can be seen by inspecting around the intake.

Hm, no offence taken, i'm still learning about cars having got my first one not too long ago and am trying to fix things.

According to chevy a system in good condition will withstand up to 50psi, but I would never go higher than neccessary to remove the blockage. A reverse flush doesn't require much pressure to clear the system. I have had great success at pressures closer to 20psi and didn't have to jeopardize the system.

In your name tag here i see youve worked on your rotors, i just noticed on one of mine that it has a 1/16 or 1/8 inch deep line carved into it about the width of a penny. What could have cause this and should i get it checked out?

Any easy roundabout way i can check for such leaks? or do i just have to hope for the best?


The easiest way to check for cooling system leaks is to go to Autozone and borrow the Pressure Cap tool. It is a Radiator cap with a small tire pump on it. When your engine is cool and turned OFF, you remove your Radiator cap, make sure your coolant is topped off and install the pressure cap tool. Pump the pump to approx. 15-16 lbs pressure and look for any leaks. Have a flashlight handy and an inspection mirror if you have one. This will safely allow you to see even the tiniest leaks unless they are hidden from view like in the heater core. After that, it is like Blazee says, "Watch your coolant level".

The chemicals shouldn't hurt the gaskets, HOWEVER if you gasket is deteriated connecting a water hose and turning it on high pressure will.

You system runs at around 16psi, a normal water hose is around 40psi. If it leaks at 16 just imagine what it will do at 40.....


I'd like to comment about the "Garden Hose Flush"

The basic concept here is to FLUSH the system, not to PRESSURE TEST the system.

When ever I use a garden hose to flush a system, I ALWAYS leave the water a way to escape. I NEVER try to build up pressure by sealing off all of the openings.

If I am trying to flush the heater core for example, I alway disconnect BOTH heater hoses, attach the garden hose to one side and let the water FLUSH the core out through the other side.

I also like to attach the garden hose to the heater hose that that comes out of the top of the block, however, when I do, I remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and flush the crud out of the block and not into the radiator.

I also like to remove both radiator hoses and wrap a rag around the garden hose and flush the radiator out going in both directions.

BUT THE WATER ALWAYS HAS A WAY TO ESCAPE.

I have performed the above mentioned flush on countless vehicles over 35 years of mechanical work and NEVER caused any damage, blown out any gaskets, ruptured any radiators, ruined any heater cores, or created any bigger problems than were already there. In fact this has worked great for me and I have always ended up with a good clean system.

The word of the day here is caution and common sense. If you don't feel comfortable doing this type of flush, don't do it.

Peace to all and good luck.

Rick

In your name tag here i see youve worked on your rotors, i just noticed on one of mine that it has a 1/16 or 1/8 inch deep line carved into it about the width of a penny. What could have cause this and should i get it checked out? Check you pads, it may be time for new brakes. If the gash is that deep you will need to replace the damaged rotor. I highly recommend you replace the one on the other side as well.

I'd like to comment about the "Garden Hose Flush"

The basic concept here is to FLUSH the system, not to PRESSURE TEST the system.

When ever I use a garden hose to flush a system, I ALWAYS leave the water a way to escape. I NEVER try to build up pressure by sealing off all of the openings.

If I am trying to flush the heater core for example, I alway disconnect BOTH heater hoses, attach the garden hose to one side and let the water FLUSH the core out through the other side.

I also like to attach the garden hose to the heater hose that that comes out of the top of the block, however, when I do, I remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and flush the crud out of the block and not into the radiator.

I also like to remove both radiator hoses and wrap a rag around the garden hose and flush the radiator out going in both directions.

BUT THE WATER ALWAYS HAS A WAY TO ESCAPE.

I have performed the above mentioned flush on countless vehicles over 35 years of mechanical work and NEVER caused any damage, blown out any gaskets, ruptured any radiators, ruined any heater cores, or created any bigger problems than were already there. In fact this has worked great for me and I have always ended up with a good clean system.

The word of the day here is caution and common sense. If you don't feel comfortable doing this type of flush, don't do it.

Peace to all and good luck.

Rick

right. you alway leave the cap off and the drain open while flushing.

The point isn't that the system develops high pressure, it is that the water is going in at high pressure.

The easiest way to check for cooling system leaks is to go to Autozone and borrow the Pressure Cap tool. It is a Radiator cap with a small tire pump on it. When your engine is cool and turned OFF, you remove your Radiator cap, make sure your coolant is topped off and install the pressure cap tool. Pump the pump to approx. 15-16 lbs pressure and look for any leaks. Have a flashlight handy and an inspection mirror if you have one. This will safely allow you to see even the tiniest leaks unless they are hidden from view like in the heater core. After that, it is like Blazee says, "Watch your coolant level".

That is an easy way to locate leaks, but not to determine if you have a leak. The best way to determine if you have a leak is to check your coolant level.

right. you alway leave the cap off and the drain open while flushing.

The point isn't that the system develops high pressure, it is that the water is going in at high pressure.


I guess I just don't see a problem with that. A large volume of water is going in at a higher pressure, yes, but isn't that the purpose of a flush?

Water, like just about everything else, will follow the least path of resistance, if water is slowly added into a system, a clogged tube will simply force the water into an open tube, and pockets of crud will probably remain pockets of crud. The desired result is to dislodge and move pockets of crud out of the system and possibly open up partially clogged radiator tubes.

As I stated in earlier threads, nothing beats a properly performed Reverse Power Flush, but if you're low on funds, this might just get you through another season. I have never seen anything damaged as a result of using a garden hose to flush a cooling system.

That is an easy way to locate leaks, but not to determine if you have a leak. The best way to determine if you have a leak is to check your coolant level.


I agree!

I guess I just don't see a problem with that. A large volume of water is going in at a higher pressure, yes, but isn't that the purpose of a flush?

Water, like just about everything else, will follow the least path of resistance, if water is slowly added into a system, a clogged tube will simply force the water into an open tube, and pockets of crud will probably remain pockets of crud. The desired result is to dislodge and move pockets of crud out of the system and possibly open up partially clogged radiator tubes.

As I stated in earlier threads, nothing beats a properly performed Reverse Power Flush, but if you're low on funds, this might just get you through another season. I have never seen anything damaged as a result of using a garden hose to flush a cooling system.

I agree. A garden hose won't damage a normal system, the topic was that it could worsen an already damged system. The water will follow the path of least resistence which in some cases would be through a deteriated gasket rather than the clogged portion of the system.

I agree! I just want to make it clear...I wasn't disputing your advice. I just wanted to clarify that he should make sure he has a leak, before he starts trying to find it.

I agree. A garden hose won't damage a normal system, the topic was that it could worsen an already damged system. The water will follow the path of least resistence which in some cases would be through a deteriated gasket rather than the clogged portion of the system.


This may come as quite a shock, But I agree too!

My last parting comment would be that if I had a potential, looming defect, like a deteriorating gasket, I'd rather find out while sitting in my driveway as opposed to 100 miles away from nowhere.

I just want to make it clear...I wasn't disputing your advice. I just wanted to clarify that he should make sure he has a leak, before he starts trying to find it.

We're starting to agree too much! No Problem here.

I don't mind anyone disputing my advice as long it is for a good logical reason. I've been wrong before and no one is perfect. I've learned a lot and hopefully helped a few people as well.

The whole purpose of this Forum is to share ideas and help each other.

Good luck!

We're starting to agree too much! No Problem here.

I don't mind anyone disputing my advice as long it is for a good logical reason. I've been wrong before and no one is perfect. I've learned a lot and hopefully helped a few people as well.

The whole purpose of this Forum is to share ideas and help each other.

Good luck!

I agree. :lol2:

I just want to let you know, I love you guys...

I just want to let you know, I love you guys...

*looks around*

Why do I feel nervous?

You can't recognize a beautiful thing! LOL!

I just want to let you know, I love you guys...

I hope you mean that in a non :gay: way.

I hope you mean that in a non :gay: way.


I HOPE THIS DOESN'T MEAN WE NEED TO START PICKING OUT CURTAINS!

I hope you mean that in a non :gay: way.

hahaha no, sorry to dissapoint you, but let's try not to be offensive guys

Reverse flush, what is that, going from both ends?

Reverse flush, what is that, going from both ends?

Reverse Flush is flushing the engine in the opposite direction than the coolant normally flows during circulation.

Is there anything else you really do differently?

Is there anything else you really do differently?

Honestly, I've never seen one done. If my information is correct, there is a special pump that is used with various attachments to reverse flush the heater core, the engine block, and radiator. I am not sure what type of solution is used, whether a chemical solvent, an Acid or water is used.

Hm, i think mine needs that done, its prolly clogged up like no other, when i looked in i it looked like mud.

Also, is there a chance my water pump is dead? How can i check to see if this is operating properly. And also, I've already mentioned it but when my car was initially flushed, the thermostat blew out, could this be a sign for anything?

Also, is there a chance my water pump is dead? How can i check to see if this is operating properly. And also, I've already mentioned it but when my car was initially flushed, the thermostat blew out, could this be a sign for anything?

Usually water pumps don't just quit pumping. When a water pump goes out, it most often is because the mechanical seal goes out and it starts leaking coolant through the little weeper hole in the bottom of the water pump casting. The annoying little leak from the weeper hole is to tell you that a bigger problem is around the corner and hopefully gives you enough time to get the problem fixed. I have also seen the bearings sieze up in the water pump and it either howls like a dog, or quits turning all together, and the belt just squeels on the pulley.

If your coolant looks like mud and/or your heater is blowing cold and/or your engine over heats, it is time to either take it in to a reputable garage for a Reverse Power Flush, or perform a thorough flush of the system yourself. The procedure has been explained on this and several other threads in this Forum. I strongly recommend that if your system is as bad as you say it is, take it to a garage this time and see if they will let you watch the procedure, and don't let them charge you more than approx. $150 USD.

What part of the country do you live in?

Chicago, IL

Chicago, IL

You shouldn't have any trouble finding a good reputable garage!

Hm, rgr, I'm barely 18 and am very cheap but actually intelligent and I would probably want to do the flush myself with the aid of somebody.

Better do it properly.

If not you could create all sorts of problems.

Hm, rgr, I'm barely 18 and am very cheap but actually intelligent and I would probably want to do the flush myself with the aid of somebody.

I admire your ambition. That is the only way you'll learn, and is how most of us started.

Please take a piece of advice and make sure that the "SOMEBODY" that helps you knows what they're doing. As I stated earlier, the process has been outlined many times in this and other threads.

Good Luck.

In case you guys haven't noticed, this thread now has the most replies in the Blazer forum.

Although doing it yourself is ideal, changing coolant and doing the flush on your own in the winter is just messy as hell.


Unless you live where the sun shines like California!

I didn't see anyone post here using an adaptor for the garden hose. Prestone sells a flush kit that includes an adaptor for the garden hose. The adaptor is also a restrictor. I don't know the pressure it allows, but it does restrict the flow. The kit is pretty cheap (~$10) and has instructions so it is n00b friendly.

I didn't see anyone post here using an adaptor for the garden hose. Prestone sells a flush kit that includes an adaptor for the garden hose. The adaptor is also a restrictor. I don't know the pressure it allows, but it does restrict the flow. The kit is pretty cheap (~$10) and has instructions so it is n00b friendly.

It has been posted in this thread many times, it is called the Prestone Flush 'N Fill kit. they cost about $4.

A while back, I asked for help with the "no heat" problem. I added antifreeze the first time and it temporarily solved the problem........for about a week. So I came back to the forum and further searched. Found where one of you guys suggested the rad cap. I ran down to AZ and grabbed the STANT. It has now been about two months, my kids (they're 20) are driving the thing in the mountains at ASU and the end result...............no more heating problems! I should've thanked you guys earlier but I'll do it now! THANKS A TON!!!! - Jay

Hahaha, last weekend it was 85 degrees and really sunny here in lansing, it has been above 60 for nearly a month!

This weekend it is 30 degrees and snowing, it's april 23 and we're supposed to get 4 inches of snow tonight... At least my heat works!

Will I be at risk for overheating using the Prestone cleaner and water? I drive around 100 miles a day and am a little worried...

Also, is it possible to drain ALL the liquid out of the engine etc? I always have a hell of a time getting the mix correct - since there is some water already in the system...

Will I be at risk for overheating using the Prestone cleaner and water? I drive around 100 miles a day and am a little worried...

Also, is it possible to drain ALL the liquid out of the engine etc? I always have a hell of a time getting the mix correct - since there is some water already in the system...

As long as your radiator cap is good, you will be fine. Water has a higher boiling point when under pressure. Water boils at 212° F, with the 15psi rad cap the water's boiling point is raised to about 250° F. A 50/50 mix of antifreeze only takes it up to about 264° F.

You can drain almost all the water out using the drain plugs on the block, but it is a pain in the ass. The easiest way to get a true 50/50 mix is to add the required amount of pure antifreeze then top off with distilled water. This is to be done after draining and flushing, so that you know it is pure water already in the block.

hey, i know this thread is 8 months old..if anyone has more input on the dexcool-to-green fluid change lets hear it. someone convinced me to have it done last year, and now it looks like remnants of dex-cool sludge is in the reservoir, and the fluid is brownish in color. you'd all probably agree that when the dex cool was flushed, there was still some left in it when they put the green in. they even sold me on some sort of 'cleaner that is necessary to change to green' for 28 bucks. i'm going to get the whole system flushed out. should I have them put dex cool back in, or just keep the green stuff?? pls help.

For what it's worth, my mechanic says just keep it green and make life simpler. However, I recall that "Prestone" has a new line that doesn't care what your current color is. You can put it in no matter what you've got in there right now.

This is why you stick with Dexcool. There is nothing wrong with Dexcool, the problem is the crappy rad cap that everyone should replace.

yes, but what's done is done. my question is now what should I do?

yes, but what's done is done. my question is now what should I do?

You have two choices, you can take it to a reputable garage and pay to have a REVERSE POWER FLUSH done, or you can flush the system yourself using radiator cleaners and a garden house. The best by far is the REVERSE POWER FLUSH. However, if your low on funds, the garden hose my be your only option. I agree with BlazerLT and say to get the system flushed and re-fill with Dexcool and replace the cap. :2cents:

just get it flushed at a shop again and replace the rad cap.

will do. thanks guys.