body work

Ok....i have a 91 s-10 4x4 and there is extensive rust on the rear fenders and around the bottom of the doors. i was going to fix it by welding pieces of steel where the rust is...is this a good idea or is there something else i could that would be easier and cheap...and this is my first body project...i need some help and advice on this...thanx

Talk to Napa, or a simular store about Patch Panels. They are worth their price in gold instead of fixing Junk.

Then use a GOOD GRADE rust neutrolizer, a good grade self etching primer/sealer, then do all the body work, prime, and after all the hard work paint it.

I'll get you a link to look at later, and Movin2stereo will probably give you the best advice

thanx....you said Napa as in the store right?...how much would those patch panels cost...and how would go about fixing the rust on the lower part of my doors and on the body beneath the doors...would it be easier to fiberglass that part or what...once again this is my first body project so i have alot of questions...

Yes Napa where I live has a good supply of auto body replacement panels including new door skins to fix those doors.

Do shop around though, including on the internet.

You'll be suprised how reasonably priced the parts are, although they are a little thinner than the origional parts (don't bump hard into the door with a new door skin.)

ok thanx a bunch.....how hard is it to put a new door skin on?....and what could i do about the rust around the rear fenders....do they have skins for that also?....

I have an 89 and im having the same problem only its being put on hold on account of its like 5 degrees outside. I sanded everything down and put this deruster solution on the bad parts. Where i had rot i cleaned the crap out of the holes and i filled the entire hole with expanding insulation foam it comes in a can, ne ways i used that sanded it down and bondoed over it but if u do that be careful cuz the first layer of bondo eats away the foam so dont sand it down to far then i just worked it up and thats it so far. if u went with the welding option find out if u an get n e old street signs they work great for patch work and also for replacing floor panels. tell me how u make out with ur body work cuz i would like to see maybe u could help me also

so you just spray some of the expanded foam stuff in the rust hole and then just bondo over it?....i never really thought about that...i may try it...thats sounds easier than trying to weld metal on...i think...haha

The only problem with rust is that you can't completely stop it,more like you can prolong the body panel.There are companies that make rust neutralizer,but I haven't seen anything concrete.Let's start with the bed.The best thing you could do is to get a new bedside(expensive).The reason being is that your old bedside is rusting.Say you get a patch panel and weld it on,that spot is good now.The only problem is that around that new panel is rust,so guess where it is going to blow out now?Around the new panel.This is true for all rust repairs.But it's not a perfect world and we just can't go buy new whole panels.So I'll tell ya how I patch'em up.Starting with your bed.Like Overboard said get patch panels.Don't waste your time or money on trying to fill in rust(completely through) with mud(plastic filler).It won't last long.First grind area to be repaired.Take your patch panel hold it up to your bed and look and see how much you will need(if not all).Cut patch panel to desired size.Hold patch panel up to bed and trace around it.Take patch panel down.Now cut the bed about a quarter of a inch smaller going by the traced line,so that you will have a overlap..I think your talking about the wheel lip where it is rusted,if so you will need to drill out the spot welds on the wheel lip.Dig out the dirt and rust that is stuck in between the wheel well and the bedside.Once dirt and rust is dug out,slide the patch panel in behind the bedside,so that the whole patch panel is on the inside of the bedside.There is good reason for this later.Make sure it fits well and weld washers onto patch panel(or pull pins)so that you can pull out on patch panel to make it fit good and tight against bedside.Weld the patch panel in.Go at a quater inch at a time and jump around the patch panel,this will limit warping.Once it's all welded,grind welds down.Now remember putting the patch panel on the inside of the bedside?Now get Duraglass(fiberglass)and fill the patch panel in.Take a grinder and grind off flush.Now that it's somewhat level,your muddin job will be that much easier.After you get it ready for primer,use a good metal ecthing primer and then a surfacer.On the back of the panel use a undercoating and after that is applied soak it down with good ole used oil(the best undercoating there is).As for the doors,you can use the patch panels also.Same thing as the bedside except you will have to hammer and dolly the patch panel to bend it around the door.Undercoat and oil the door bottoms(inside).Hope this helps ya.

thank a bunch man....that will help me alot...i just want my truck to look good again...haha..how expensive is this project ganna be? cause im just a 17 year old high school kid that has a minimum wage job...haha...but i guess ill have to put some money in it some time...

The cost will depend on what products you use.I would say a few hundred no problem,that's not counting paint.

Movin2Stereo I'm just wondering what your opinion on POR-15 is http://www.por15.com/ if you've seen it used, or used it yourself

I'm using it on my Blazer when it's warm enough, and if it seems to work I'll be using it on both my Essex street rods

I've never used that product.I have used a couple of other rust neutralizers in the past before and to be honest I don't think they made a difference.I would say get some and try it on your S10.If it works on that then you will know.Let me know too.