how to build an awesome LT1??

hey guys, rookie here when it comes anything but bolt ons.

I've got a 94 lt1, not a daily driver. This car HAS to be streetable.

Im gonna put a good clutch in that can handle 600+ hp, either a spec or a mcleod. My stock clutch is fried (hey i learned how to drive stick on it, gimme a break).
Preformance breaks and rotors are next.

Eventually i , maybe in a year or two, i want to pull the engine and get down to some serious power. Problem is, im not sure where to start. I just don't want to do a half ass job and have to rip the engine apart all the time.

I would like to put a stroker kit in and super charge it.

So if you guys were gonna build this engine--where would u start and what should i consider.

Obviously im gonna have to change the rear to handle the power.
Is 600 hp a reasonable goal on this block?

thanks guys

Ya 600+ hp is reasonable. My first question, it is it a four bolt? if not get the splayed 4 bolt mains for the stroker kit after that i would buy the stoker kit and make sure it is all forged 4340 or above steel. After this i would buy a nice cam and intake, after this i would back it all up with a nice procharger centrifugal supercharger maybe the p-1sc model. Hope it goes well for you,good luck.

four bolt? im still trying to learn about engines/parts. Hook a nigga up.

He's referring to the main bearing caps, and i'm sure it is a four bolt. Honestly, if I was looking for that much power I would ditch the supercharger idea and go with a turbo. That way, you can use a simple boost controller and run low boost and 87 octane when you are on the street, or throw in some race gas and crank up the boost for racin'.

well looking at costs and time, a super charger is a much more viable solution. There is no room in my car as it is, even with a raised hood. I looked into turbos, and there is no "kit" everything has to be custom. I don't even wanna know how much it would cost to make a set of headers to accomadate the turbo(s), let alone finding space for an intercooler.Jesus, linginfelter or how ever you spell it, will twin turbo a small block for the cost of a new house. So even if i find a local pro--it can't be more then a 10 grand difference.Corse, thats a soup to nuts job. im not gonna go remote mount turbo, thats gay as hell, even tho its cheap. Pro charger makes some insane superchargers for small blocks that make most turbos look like toys power wise, so im not really worried about getting a super charger to put out tons of power.

later

I would find another engine to build, so your car won't be down. You will most certainly want a 4-bolt main block. Don't rely on casting numbers. Take the pan off and LOOK. We've seen LT1s that weren't 4-bolt main.
For a 383 kit (ALL Chevy 383s are "strokers", so no need to say it), we use Eagle. We've found them to be of very consistent quality and they measure good. Avoid the cheepy-chugger cast cranks. As said previously, get a forged steel crank. There are various other vendors with kits, too.
ProCharger seems to be the hot lick this year!

not really worried about having the car down while the work is being done, as i have a yukon and plan on getting a little fart rocket to cruise around in. However, i do go through withdrawl when im not driving it, so i might work off another engin anyway.

As was stated earlier, I would look for another block that you can do all the work on. There is a moderator on here by the name of FormulaLT1 who just built a 383 stroker motor out of a LT1 and dropped it into his firebird. You could PM him and he could give you more specifics, but for all practical purposes the best way to do it would be some combination of stroker motor and some kind of power adder, wether it be boost or nitrous.

Rob

F-Body LT1's were all two-bolt mains.

Doing a stroker kit is a great option, and relatively cheap. I've seen decent stroker kits on eBay going for like $1400-1500 - Eagle 4340 crank and 4340 rods, forged pistons (JE, Ross even etc...). 4340 steel is widely regarded as the best type of forged metal but there's a lot of engine builders out there that will argue a good cast crank will do you better. But whatever.

Just remember you want the build the strongest and lightest rotating assembly possible. Thats usually the difference between price - you can have two forged 4340 cranks: the $500 one will weigh over 50 lbs and the $1,500 one will weigh under 40 lbs.