stupid ass car

I just got my car back from getting a new clutch in and I think the fuckers at the shop messed something up in my car.

Problem #1: THE CLUTCH
its all gay and super hard to push in. You can only put it into gear if the pedal's halfway down. If its on the floor, it wont go into gear. BUT if its NOT all the way down (which takes a lot of leg strenth), it wont start. Also, I can put it into gear and dump the clutch and the car wont die. it will just drop the rpm's down to about 600 and just creep foreword.

Problem #2: IDLE
Sometimes the rpm's drop so low when the clutch is in(200-300) that the guages dim, because the car starts to die. But then something will kick them back up to about 900 then they will fall again.

Problem#3 BOOST PRESSURE
ON the factory boost guage, the needle only goes up to a little less than halfway up the guage, even at redline

Problem #4: OIL PRESSURE
oil pressure guage says oil pressure is REALLY LOW at lidle and low rpm's. If I rev it up to 4k of so and keep it there, it goes to about 1/3 rd of the way up
HELP ME OUT!!

mine does # 2 and the oil pressure, its suspected to be a head gasket or bas seal in my case idk im bringing it to the dealer on friday

that would suck if it was the head gasket, those are mad money to get installed and mad time to do it yourself, im hoping thats not my problem

Did you check all your fluid levels. The first one sounds like it could be air in the clutch cylinder. Second sounds like it could be a timing issue, which would also lead to the third. I don't know about the last one.

didnt check my fluids, i will in a minute.. How could I purge the air out of the clutch cylinder, and what can be done about the timing issues?

You'll basically have to bleed the cylinder and refill it. Before you seal it up, pump the pedal a few times then seal it up to make sure it forces out the air. Timing issues can be remedied by setting the chain on its proper markings. Most engines have 2 sets of markings on the timing cogs and alot of the time people reassemble engines on the wrong set of marks.

You'll have to bleed your clutch to get the air out of the lines. There are many tech articles on here and dsmtuners about how to do it, incase you don't already know.

ok ill do a little searching on the bleeding and stuff. SO are you guys basically telling me that the problems ive listed can be fixed pretty easily? If thats that case then SWEET because im broke right now from dropping nearly 800 on that stupid clutch
ALL I WANT IS MY CAR TO RUN RIGHT!!!

Ok... #1 It seems as if your pedal hight adjustment rod is out to far. #2 Its because the adjustment rod is so far out that it is pushing the pressure plate so far that the fingers on the pressure plate are hitting the clutch springs slowing the motor down. #3 Do not use that gauge... get a different one! The stock boost gauge is a POS. #4 Seems like you may have a low oil level if the gauge is really low, either that or the its where it is suppose to be and you have never noticed it there before. So say the stock gauge has a scale from 0-100, idle is at 20psi for oil pressure. So think of the gauge reading 100psi at the top, pick somewhere close to the bottom, probably where your gauge is at, thats about 20psi. To tell for sure get a aftermarket oil pressure gauge that reads 0-100psi!

Jake took the words right out of my mouth. Doesnt sound like a bleeding problem, but the opposite. Too MUCH clutch action. Think about it. It seems to already be partially engaged when the pedal is up (slipping), works normal halfway down, and is practically stalling the motor when all the way down. Start with the adjustment rod, which someone may have moved out too far to make up for a poor bleed job or bad installation, or it may be the clutch itself or the way it was installed, but its almost impossible to screw up. Aside from banjaxed step height anyway. Most "shops" dont realize how important it is to get the step height right on our cars. What clutch did you have put it in? That info would have been helful. But ACT, stock, and most others require a .610" step height. Ask them what they used. Either way, I would have taken it back long before I took the time to post about it... ;)

yep go with jake, but i would bleed it to.

IT is impossible for bleeding to fix this issue. Like I said, its the opposite problem. In fact if it wasnt beld properly, bleeding it right would make this problem worse. I wouldnt bleed it until the actual problem is fixed.

sweet, thanks for the advice. I'm at school now, but ill mess with the rod when i get home and see if that solves anything. As for the guages, i'll have to wait to get some cash first, but i was planning on doing those anyway. And as for the oil pressure, is there anyway to check if the stock oil pump is working right?

If it wasnt... You wouldnt have a motor anymore! Check your oil level and make sure thats at optimal level. Oil pressure at idle is pretty low, but enough to make sure everything is properly lubed.

wow.. so i get home and go out to my car and start it... And the clutch works fine!!. ALso, none of that idleing shit i was talking about. weird, huh. The only thing that isnt complentley normal about my car is it idles just a little bit low and shakes a bit. nothing too uncomfortable, but not like it used to be. It idles around 800 now, where it used to be about 1000

750-800rpm is normal spec idle... Thats where it should be!

thats good... whats up with the shake then? could it be the egr valve?

My car shakes at idle, but I do have filled front and rear mounts.

well, the clutch problem is back again, but at least the others are gone. Its like you push in the clutch in 2 stages. you push it in about 5 inches and it feels like it's on the floor, but when you turn the key, it doesnt start. Then, if you push it REALLY HARD, it goes in another 1.5 inches or so and THEN it's on the floor. But when its on the floor, you cant put it into gear, without it going ARRGHGSLHIFKJD.....gay car