Amp to factory stero hookup
chrisfrye
01-12-2005, 08:02 PM
Alright so i have a 2003 s10 stock, with stock cd player/radio. I'm hooking up two more speakers and an amp. From what i've gathered i hook the four factory speakers to the amp, as well as my new ones, then run lines back the the factory wire harness for the 8 speaker wires. (i dont have a wirring diagram, but i think i figured out which ones are which as far as the speakers)Does anyone out there have a diagram? Then i drilled in the firewall to run a positive lead to my battery, then ran a ground to my chasis. Theres one last wire i have to hookup which is the power lead to turn on the amp. I'm not sure where on the harness it hookups. This is my friends car and we have the dash off now trying to figure this rediculousness. I wish he had a manual. Thank you guys!
To be a little more specific on the amp, it has four front and four rear speaker outputs, + and - for each speaker/field. Theres two types of inputs, RCA type connections and "High Level Input Connection" which contains 8 wires which should hook into the harness.
For the three power wires, it has a negative, positive and "remote output to car audio" It says note Be sure to connect the remote control wire of the car audio to the remote terminal. When using a car audio without a remote output on the amplifier, connect the remote input terminal (REMOTE) to the accessory power supply.
There are no directions with this only some cheap diagram with a couple notes.. do i need to run a power wire from the amp back to the stock harness? I'm really confused and i know this can't be that difficult.. help~!!
To be a little more specific on the amp, it has four front and four rear speaker outputs, + and - for each speaker/field. Theres two types of inputs, RCA type connections and "High Level Input Connection" which contains 8 wires which should hook into the harness.
For the three power wires, it has a negative, positive and "remote output to car audio" It says note Be sure to connect the remote control wire of the car audio to the remote terminal. When using a car audio without a remote output on the amplifier, connect the remote input terminal (REMOTE) to the accessory power supply.
There are no directions with this only some cheap diagram with a couple notes.. do i need to run a power wire from the amp back to the stock harness? I'm really confused and i know this can't be that difficult.. help~!!
dmbrisket 51
01-12-2005, 10:36 PM
you need a stock to aftermarket adaptor, hard to find, you would be better off to buy an aftermarket cd player, if thats not an option, then you must cut and splice from input signel to amp, amp out to speakers, chop in a remote, a remote is a voltage current that is sepretly controlled by something thats alwase on when the truck is on but never on when off, the remote sends a signel to the amp to draw power from the main sorce, your battery, and it seams like you get the power idea, just screw that into the back, also for your input, you want to go to the high output spot, because rca's are for sub applications. any questions just post or e mail me at [email protected]
OverBoardProject
01-12-2005, 11:58 PM
the factory speakers are usually the worst part of any factory stereo system. Replace those and you'll have a much better sound.... or if you don't it'll sound awfull, not to mention they'll probably blow with an amp hooked up
dmbrisket 51
01-13-2005, 12:01 AM
theres really not probably with that overboard, you bring up an excellent point, factory speakers are like 40 to 80watts max power handleing, they will be cracked after the first good song you hear after the install, i have pioneers and imo they are excellent and fairly cheep, go to walmart, its a lower end but its still the pioneer name and preformence, a little less wattage handleing, but im pushen 600 watts to 4 of them and they are doing just fine
chrisfrye
01-13-2005, 12:32 AM
Yeah i really figured that the stock speakers suck and needed to be replaced, if it were me i wouldve replaced all four and dropped in a couple subs, but he decided to buy a new speaker set with a box and an amp. they're 300w speakers, so they'll draw most of the watts off the 500w xplode amp. if the four factory speakers are hooked up they will most definitely blow? possibly he'll want to just hookup the two new ones and maybe pick up a sub. If i do decide to replace all four speakers what specifications should i look for that won't blow hooked up to my amp? thanks
OverBoardProject
01-13-2005, 01:02 AM
Just about any brand name speakers will do fine, so get whatever you like. They should have the power rating listed on them.
I personally like Cerwin Vega's, because of their price and quailty. Or Rockford Fosgate because they match my amp,
I personally like Cerwin Vega's, because of their price and quailty. Or Rockford Fosgate because they match my amp,
chrisfrye
01-13-2005, 02:59 AM
okay, so another thought i had, is to take the two new speakers, and plug them into the amp, then splice four of the speaker wires comming off my factory harness and on one end hook up the amp input and the current factory speakers. not running the factory speakers through the amp should prevent them from blowing. since my friend is kind of poor especialy after dropping 150 on this, i dont think he can afford four new speakers or a new cd player. So first question is would that hookup work? Secondly I still have questions on this reply
"" then you must cut and splice from input signel to amp, amp out to speakers, chop in a remote, a remote is a voltage current that is sepretly controlled by something thats alwase on when the truck is on but never on when off, the remote sends a signel to the amp to draw power from the main sorce, your battery, and it seams like you get the power idea, just screw that into the back ""
cut and splice from input signal, using my idea above? and amp out to my new speakers. when it comes into chop in a remote, i'm not sure what i need to do. i understand the concept of a remote but do i need a special device/box that controls this, do i hook the wire straight from amp to somewhere on the harness? where or which wire would i run it into? or is this where i require the adapter which is hard to find? is there anyother ways around wasting my time looking for impossible parts, or replacing the headunit?
And "just screw that into the back" i'm not sure what you were referring to.
Lastely, does anyone have a diagram, chart of the wirring of the factory cd player?? thank you guys.
"" then you must cut and splice from input signel to amp, amp out to speakers, chop in a remote, a remote is a voltage current that is sepretly controlled by something thats alwase on when the truck is on but never on when off, the remote sends a signel to the amp to draw power from the main sorce, your battery, and it seams like you get the power idea, just screw that into the back ""
cut and splice from input signal, using my idea above? and amp out to my new speakers. when it comes into chop in a remote, i'm not sure what i need to do. i understand the concept of a remote but do i need a special device/box that controls this, do i hook the wire straight from amp to somewhere on the harness? where or which wire would i run it into? or is this where i require the adapter which is hard to find? is there anyother ways around wasting my time looking for impossible parts, or replacing the headunit?
And "just screw that into the back" i'm not sure what you were referring to.
Lastely, does anyone have a diagram, chart of the wirring of the factory cd player?? thank you guys.
dmbrisket 51
01-13-2005, 01:46 PM
well to start with the remote, no it is just a simple 12 v sorce, i know people who have used a sepret switch and when they flip the switch it turns the amp on, others hook it up to the lights its just a wire no special anything needed, when the amp gets the voltage to it, it will turn on, its like a switch to keep the battery kicken, and about the cutting and sliceing, without the aftermarket to stock adaptor, you must find the wire with the input in it, cut it and run it to the amp, without the clip you have to get into the amp, no offence at all, and this sounds like your new to the radio portion, buy the adaptor, poor or not its something that i strongly recomend for a job like this, and just screw it into the back, sorry should of been more clear, i was reading and typing as i was going, i ment for the ground, just get a self tapping screw and screw it into the floor or back of the truck and it will be an excellent water tight ground
OverBoardProject
01-13-2005, 04:34 PM
trust me on this one, don't just hook it up to a toggle switch. I had a dead battery because of that once during an all day concert.
You'll probably get better sound just hooking up the new speakers, and leaving the factory ones disconected.
I really sugest that you buy a couple of car audio magizines, and look at their tech articles. Just don't get hooked into their advertising, and spend your life savings. Your local library might even have the mags on their shelves
You'll probably get better sound just hooking up the new speakers, and leaving the factory ones disconected.
I really sugest that you buy a couple of car audio magizines, and look at their tech articles. Just don't get hooked into their advertising, and spend your life savings. Your local library might even have the mags on their shelves
BlazerLT
01-14-2005, 05:13 PM
You can't run aftermarket speakers on a stock deck
stock deck speakers are 6 ohms whereas aftermarket is 4 ohm.
you will burn up you cd player is you do that.
stock deck speakers are 6 ohms whereas aftermarket is 4 ohm.
you will burn up you cd player is you do that.
chris15706
01-14-2005, 08:52 PM
i thought they ran at 8 ohms? If it were up to me i would just get a 2 channel or mono sub amp and add a sub or two with the existing stereo. I think that would be the best way to improve the sound without getting a new cd player.
BlazerLT
01-14-2005, 09:10 PM
What are 8ohms?
movin2stereo
01-14-2005, 09:24 PM
I've seen just about all ohms used in factory systems,4,6,8.The ohm load is usually printed on the backs of the speakers.Mostly 4 ohms are used in mobile audio while 8 ohms are used for the home.What's really scary is that he was hooking up speakers and not paying atension to the ohm loads.This is a really good way to burn up a amp or like Blazer said the cd player.You just can't go about hooking up stuff and not know what you have.Please check and research what you have first.
ponchonutty
01-15-2005, 10:39 AM
I've seen just about all ohms used in factory systems,4,6,8.The ohm load is usually printed on the backs of the speakers.Mostly 4 ohms are used in mobile audio while 8 ohms are used for the home.What's really scary is that he was hooking up speakers and not paying atension to the ohm loads.This is a really good way to burn up a amp or like Blazer said the cd player.You just can't go about hooking up stuff and not know what you have.Please check and research what you have first.
NO, HE IS FINE! The cheapo amp he's got has HIGH LEVEL INPUTS. What he needs to do is run some wire from the speaker outputs from the stock radio directly into the amp. THere is minimal draw so his CD player will be fine. Do not use the RCA hook up. You will only want to use these if you get a new aftermarket stereo. Then, run power wire as stated but make sure to use a gromet in the firewall or someway protect it from being cut on the sharp metal. MAKE SURE TO USE A PROPER FUSE FOR THE MAIN POWER WIRE. Then do the ground and then the remote turn on lead. On this truck, just hook that to the ignition wire so when he turns on the truck, the amp will come on.
Why did he waste money on a 4ch amp???? Those make for sucky sub amp because they usually can't be bridged, therefore you will not get all the power out of it.
NO, HE IS FINE! The cheapo amp he's got has HIGH LEVEL INPUTS. What he needs to do is run some wire from the speaker outputs from the stock radio directly into the amp. THere is minimal draw so his CD player will be fine. Do not use the RCA hook up. You will only want to use these if you get a new aftermarket stereo. Then, run power wire as stated but make sure to use a gromet in the firewall or someway protect it from being cut on the sharp metal. MAKE SURE TO USE A PROPER FUSE FOR THE MAIN POWER WIRE. Then do the ground and then the remote turn on lead. On this truck, just hook that to the ignition wire so when he turns on the truck, the amp will come on.
Why did he waste money on a 4ch amp???? Those make for sucky sub amp because they usually can't be bridged, therefore you will not get all the power out of it.
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