door hinges

I need to know if anyone has had a problem with their door hinges sagging. how can i get rid of this and how much is it to replace them?

There are brass bushings that hold the door pins tight. Most likely these are old and worn. You can go to the local auto parts store (I go to NAPA) and get some news ones pretty cheap.
You will have to get the pins out, which could be tricky then pop out the new bushings and replace with the new bushings and new pins.
Be careful with the door spring !!!! Replace one pin at a time !!!

and just to add, support the door during removal and assembly...

I need to know if anyone has had a problem with their door hinges sagging. how can i get rid of this and how much is it to replace them?

As dugie indicated, the bronze bushings are worn. There are kits made that include all the parts (bushings, pins and retainer) and you should replace both upper and lower bushing/pin assemblies.

I just did this on an '85 S10; doors work like new.

You *WILL* need a special tool to remove and replace the door springs. You can pry them out with a screw driver but no way in God's green Earth are you ever gonna get 'em back in. The tool is available online, doesn's cost much (less than $10) and makes the job very easy.

Good luck and be careful with that door spring.....

what springs? i dont see a spring

Where might I find the spring tool. I've got a 2000 with the same sag issue. :banghead:

Where might I find the spring tool. I've got a 2000 with the same sag issue. :banghead:

Here's an on-line source for specialty tools....

http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Door-Spring-Tool-for-GM-Cars.html

This is the spring compressor you will need to make the job so much easier and it can be had for less than twenty bucks...........

There are brass bushings that hold the door pins tight. Most likely these are old and worn. You can go to the local auto parts store (I go to NAPA) and get some news ones pretty cheap.
You will have to get the pins out, which could be tricky then pop out the new bushings and replace with the new bushings and new pins.
Be careful with the door spring !!!! Replace one pin at a time !!!
I don't understand the one pin at a time deal?When I do them.I take the door off,pop out the bushings(all),install new bushings,set door back on and put in the new pins.

what springs? i dont see a spring
Look at the bottom of the top hinge,it should be there.Although I have seen where the roller broke off and the spring fell out as a result.

I don't understand the one pin at a time deal?

I have replaced the pins and bushings without completely removing the door. That is why I said one at a time. That why you don't have to completely remove the door. It is harder to do but I work alone, so I have come up with other ways of doing things; not neccesarily the easist for others.

I have replaced the pins and bushings without completely removing the door. That is why I said one at a time. That why you don't have to completely remove the door. It is harder to do but I work alone, so I have come up with other ways of doing things; not neccesarily the easist for others.
How in the hell do you do it with the door still on the truck?I'm impressed. :)

as for the spring, probally not to safe but it worked for me. compress the spring a vise and tie it with safty wire in at least 3 places. slide spring into position and cut the wire and it pops into place. you might want to ware a face shield if your going to try this.

as for the spring, probally not to safe but it worked for me. compress the spring a vise and tie it with safty wire in at least 3 places. slide spring into position and cut the wire and it pops into place. you might want to ware a face shield if your going to try this.

i used needle nose vice grips.

i used needle nose vice grips.
Your a brave soul.

I just replaced my pins (both front doors) stopped by my GM dealer and for 5$ a mechanic came right out side, compressed the springs and installed and I was on my way in about 5 min. I figured I would never use the tool again...good luck

I need to know if anyone has had a problem with their door hinges sagging. how can i get rid of this and how much is it to replace them?
change the hinges for new ones the best way to go about it

change the hinges for new ones the best way to go about it
Wrong,the hinges are welded on.

change the hinges for new ones the best way to go about it
:nono: :lol2: :rofl: :lol:
Wrong,the hinges are welded on. :thumbsup: :1:

true true true the actual hinges are welded on. the only thing that can be easily changed is the hinge pins and the bushings that they ride in. the cost for all four of pins and eight of the bushings should be less then $20. actually i live the the powdered metals mecca of the world and had a friend on mine run my bushings through a vacuum oil impregnation to try to get the bushings to last longer. but even after the replacing the pins and bushings there was still a noticable sag in the door, to the point that it is beginning to ware the latching pin on the rear part of the door opening on the cab. its is almost as if the hinges have become slanted that direction. i am not much into body work, is there someone out there that has seen this and been able to fix it??

one person i spoke with suggest that i get out the hi-lift jack and put a block of wood under the rear of the door and jack on it with the door nearly closed. anyone try this and have it work? i would like to hear a success story before i start jacking on the door like that....

I've changed my hinges one at a time and it's stupid. You just end up bending the latch and your door wont sit straight unless you bend it back. Just do both at the same time.

I ended up redoing the door I did one at a time :(

true true true the actual hinges are welded on. the only thing that can be easily changed is the hinge pins and the bushings that they ride in. the cost for all four of pins and eight of the bushings should be less then $20. actually i live the the powdered metals mecca of the world and had a friend on mine run my bushings through a vacuum oil impregnation to try to get the bushings to last longer. but even after the replacing the pins and bushings there was still a noticable sag in the door, to the point that it is beginning to ware the latching pin on the rear part of the door opening on the cab. its is almost as if the hinges have become slanted that direction. i am not much into body work, is there someone out there that has seen this and been able to fix it??

one person i spoke with suggest that i get out the hi-lift jack and put a block of wood under the rear of the door and jack on it with the door nearly closed. anyone try this and have it work? i would like to hear a success story before i start jacking on the door like that....
Yes the jack story works.Make sure that you use a block of wood and put it under the inner door,NOT the bottom of the door skin.Try a little at a time untill the door lines up right.Opps almost forgot,I have seen cases where the bushings were worn so bad that it wore into the hinge itself.So that even a new bushing wouldnt fit tight.I fixed this by filling the bushing hole with brass,yes this is old school.By doing that I could see the two different metals so I knew where to drill the hole again.

This is the devil, I was afraid of prying the spring out w/ a hammer so I used the spring tool, only it's hard to get the ears of the tool around the ends of the spring due to the hinge hardware being in the way. It finally gave in for me, i'm not looking forward to the reinstallation. After removing the panel, disconnecting the wires and removing the spring I realized I my be in over my head w/ pulling and replacing the bushings... In an effort to seal the job i went ahead and partially knocked out the top pin... now I must continue on. Now I'm waiting on a bud to come hold the door steady while i finish banging out the pins and replacing the bushings. How is it possible to do only one pin at a time... there doesn't appear to be room to put in the new bushing beneath door side of the hinge. wish me luck!

The spring tool doesn't around the ends of the spring, you put it inside the coil a little bit on each end.

I used a 12" long 3/8 socket extension to hit the bottom pin out without scuffing the door. You didn't really have to remove the panel and the wiring to do this, and it's a lot easier if you have something to hold the door up.

Good luck and post up if you need more help.

The spring tool doesn't around the ends of the spring, you put it inside the coil a little bit on each end.

I used a 12" long 3/8 socket extension to hit the bottom pin out without scuffing the door. You didn't really have to remove the panel and the wiring to do this, and it's a lot easier if you have something to hold the door up.

Good luck and post up if you need more help.
Removing everything(door panel and wiring) so the door can be taken off is easier.It is alot easier to be able to lay the door on a rack and replace the bushings than to try and steady it on a jack or what not.Unless of course you have a door jack.

I found that an ice chest, college class schedule, and towel achieved the perfect height for what I need,,, plus i can slide the door back and forth out of the way as i replace the bushings. all seems to be going well. It would have been necessary during reassembly for me to remove the door panel/wiring harness... the wires running from the door to the cab (and the accompanying sheathing) occupy the only access route to the springs resting place. Without removing this rubber sheathing there is no way of directing the spring & tool into position. I have a 2000 blazer LS 4dr 2wd. Ya'll are awesome w/ the quick responses.

It would have been necessary during reassembly for me to remove the door panel/wiring harness... the wires running from the door to the cab (and the accompanying sheathing) occupy the only access route to the springs resting place. Without removing this rubber sheathing there is no way of directing the spring & tool into position.

You lost me here.

The only clear path for reinserting the spring is coming straight up from the bottom. The wire harness from the door to the cab blocks this path. So i felt it would ultimately be necessary to move the wiring out of the way.

I just unplugged the wire harness' rubber molding from both sides of the door, it gave me about 2" more room to play. I used socket extensions and a rubber mallet to help pound the pins in/out.

After undoing the wire harness' rubber molding it's just a straight horizontal shot to put the spring in, easy as pie.

I always just used the spring tool.

I finished the project... it can indeed be a PITA. The first time is always the hardest though right? I have a passenger side which will need new bushings soon enough, i can see the brass starting to split at the top. <chcknugget>You were right about just pulling the rubber harness loose for reinserting the spring. Also using a 5/16 bolt w/ a few washers is awesome for pressing in the new bushings. <wink>Thanks to everyone for the educational posts, couldn't have done it w/ out this forum.

Good Job,
I forgot to remind you to put some grease on your new pin and bushings when you put it in... I hope you did!

It does get easier the second time you do it.

Movin2stereo, I do use a spring tool for the spring, I said to use a rubber mallet and socket extensions to pound the pins in/out.