93 Ford Escort St. Wagon Won't turn over

I have a 1993 Ford Escort Station Wagon LX that I drove today and then turned it off. I went out to start it again and it wouldn't turn over. The radio works, the heater fan works and the gauges and lights work. It just won't turn over and it was running fine before with no problems except the headlight high beams work once in a while. What is wrong? Kirfer

Turn on you lights. Are they dim? If so get a jump from another car. Are connections at the battery clean and tight? Manual-clutch switch not completely depressed. Automatic- not in park or neutral. Does it make a clicking sound? If it starts with a jump you more than llikely have a discharged battery. If it doesn't start with a jump your starter is in need of replacement.

I have a manual transmission and I had the clutch pushed in all the way. The only thing it does is when you turn the key all the way on it makes one very light click. The tow truck tried to give me a jump and nothing except one very low click. My husband cleaned the terminals and put a battery charger on the battery and still nothing.

I have a manual transmission and I had the clutch pushed in all the way. The only thing it does is when you turn the key all the way on it makes one very light click. The tow truck tried to give me a jump and nothing except one very low click. My husband cleaned the terminals and put a battery charger on the battery and still nothing.

sometimes the battery can develop a short and cause your problem. even if the battery is not to old this can happen usually in the cold weather. Take the battery or your car to autozone have them test it (they will for free) also be sure the connections to the battery and starter/solenoid is good. then if that dont work check the alternator

We tow started it and it runs good. Then we turn it off and it won't start.

We tow started it and it runs good. Then we turn it off and it won't start.
most likely the battery has issues take it out and have it load tested.

We have a 1995 wagon LX that doesn't start after being run for more than a few minutes (just the single "click" like you mentioned). We've had a tune-up, replaced the starter and replaced the neutral safety switch. The car was awesome for 2½ days. Now we're back to the drawing board.

When it's acting up, most of the time we simply open the hood while trying to start it and it fires right up. It has to be electrical but no one knows what! (It seems to act up more when raining or damp out.)

We have a 1995 wagon LX that doesn't start after being run for more than a few minutes (just the single "click" like you mentioned). We've had a tune-up, replaced the starter and replaced the neutral safety switch. The car was awesome for 2½ days. Now we're back to the drawing board.

When it's acting up, most of the time we simply open the hood while trying to start it and it fires right up. It has to be electrical but no one knows what! (It seems to act up more when raining or damp out.)

have you also tried checking the battery and its connections? (bring it to autozone they will test it in the car and the cars charging system free) also check the wire going to ground and the positive wire going to the starter. When it is in the no start mode check and see if you are getting spark. let me know how ya make out

Thanks for the quick reply! Wow!

I get no spark... won't even turn over, just the infamous 'click'.
FYI: This is an automatic 1.9L with 110K miles

I neglected to say that the battery was the first thing we tried (2 months new) and the positive (+) cable was replaced when the 'new' starter (not rebuilt) was installed. (The old starter was running too hot.)

SO FAR WE'VE DONE...

- 30/60/90 Service
- New Battery
- New Starter & (+) Cable
- New Neutral Safety Switch (OEM Mopar)

(upwards of $850 total... so far!)

Do you know if there are any other components between the neutral safety switch and the starter in a '95 Escort LX? What else is there to replace?!

Thanks again for the suggestion. I'll take it to AutoZone to make sure the battery doesn't have a bad cell and the ground is OK since the (+) is all new. Any thoughts on the hood being opened that might cause it to finally start? Could there be a short in some wiring? My mechanic that did all the above mentioned work said everything checked out ok, they even checked the steering column, wires and tumbler... all good! We're all scratching our heads.

If I do come across the solution (HOPEFULY), I will pass it on for others! This is one frustrating problem!

FORD... Found On Road Dead!

Free Testing

Some places charge you for testing your car, but at AutoZone, it's free.

Don't buy a part you don't need. AutoZone will test your car's parts for free. We can test your car's battery, alternator, starter and voltage regulator while they're still on your car. We can also give your car a complete starting and charging systems test.

You can also take your alternator, starter or battery into our store and we'll test it. In most stores, we can also test voltage regulators, control modules, coils, throttle position sensors (TPSs) and other engine management components.

Sounds like you are going in the right direction however i missundertood. sounds like your getting a click and it is not turning over? if it is a click then check the solinod to the starter and the connection. if it is cranking and not starting thats a whole different area.

Free Testing

Some places charge you for testing your car, but at AutoZone, it's free...

Yup, just a 'click' and it won't turn over at all. (More often when it's raining or damp out.)

Well, I took it to AutoZone and they ran the test you suggested. The battery is fine (new), the starter is fine (new) but the alternator has a "bad diode". I know what a diode is and what it does, but it doesn't sound like the solution to my problem! The diode lets the alternator "charge" the battery when running but doesn't allow it to "drain" the battery when not running. The diode is like a 'one way switch'... if the diode is bad, it'll drain the battery over time so it'll never start. Mine WILL start after opening the hood!

Since I got a new starter, wouldn't it have a new solinoid too?

He said the bad diode IS a "problem", but doesn't think it would cause the "click" with no turn over. Especially when I told him that I simply... "Open the hood and close it, and it'll start right up." The only answer he had was to replace the alternator and see if that fixes it. GEESH!!!! This is getting expensive!

HASN'T ANYONE EVER COME ACROSS THIS PROBLEM BEFORE AND FIXED IT?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? HELP!!!!!!!!

Is there anything that connects the transmission to the neutral safety switch that may be faulty? I've read about some "wire harnesses" that connect there that may be corroded? Is this true?

Thanks for all your help and guidance on this.

Thanks for all your help and guidance on this.[/QUOTE]

well thought you said it was a rebuilt starter. Id check the connection there at the solinod. but as far as that diode goes i'd imagine it would stop the current flow in the system. Are you sure you can recreate the problem and moving the hood solves the problem or was it coinsidence? I still think its a connection/ground issue in the charging system. but i dont know it all-lol

Rmodl,
From your narrative it sounds like you have a bad starter solonoid (relay) located on L/H inner fender. The (+) battery is attached to it, or it is not grounded properly. The 'click' you hear indicates the ignition switch circuit to the solonoid is good. This relay merely hooks the battery to the starter when activated by the ignition switch (small pull-off connector on the solonoid).
Make sure the (-) battery cable has a good ground to the chassis, and check the ground from the chassis to the cylinder head.
Sometimes the solonoid will stick, tap it a couple of times and then try to restart the car. If none of these things work.....replace the starter solonoid.
Alvin.

Rmodl,
From your narrative it sounds like you have a bad starter solonoid (relay) located on L/H inner fender. The (+) battery is attached to it, or it is not grounded properly. The 'click' you hear indicates the ignition switch circuit to the solonoid is good. This relay merely hooks the battery to the starter when activated by the ignition switch (small pull-off connector on the solonoid).
Make sure the (-) battery cable has a good ground to the chassis, and check the ground from the chassis to the cylinder head.
Sometimes the solonoid will stick, tap it a couple of times and then try to restart the car. If none of these things work.....replace the starter solonoid.
Alvin.

I agree with you i was thinking with a chevy mentality-lol

If ur diode is bad, that means it's letting the battery drain through the alternator, am I not correct? If you don't have enough to turn the crank right off, you get a click and it quits tryin. If your draining through your alternator, that's a draw on your battery that could be used to start the car. You're probably getting a start when you catch the diode in a good mood and lets you keep that valuable amperage. Change your alternator!

If ur diode is bad, that means it's letting the battery drain through the alternator, am I not correct? If you don't have enough to turn the crank right off, you get a click and it quits tryin. If your draining through your alternator, that's a draw on your battery that could be used to start the car. You're probably getting a start when you catch the diode in a good mood and lets you keep that valuable amperage. Change your alternator!

Jet-Lee,
To check for battery drain:
a. Key "off", disconnect the (-) battery terminal. Connect a test light between the (-) battery terminal and the disconnected battery cable. It the light comes on, there is a short (drain) somewhere in the electrical system.
b. Disconnect the alternator wiring harness. If the light goes out, there's a problem in the alternator, and it should be replaced.
c. If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out. (This will tell you which component is shorted.)
Alvin

I have a manual transmission and I had the clutch pushed in all the way. The only thing it does is when you turn the key all the way on it makes one very light click. The tow truck tried to give me a jump and nothing except one very low click. My husband cleaned the terminals and put a battery charger on the battery and still nothing.

Kirfer,
I see in this tag where you mention a "very light click" and a "very low click" this is a clue that maybe you are not getting sufficient voltage from the ignition switch to the solonoid, or solonoid is not grounded to the fender. Remove the small wire from the starter solonoid. Connect a VOM between the wire and a good ground turn the Ignition switch to start and read the voltage....should be 12 volts. If the voltage is lower than 12V put a jumper wire from the (+) battery terminal to the ignition switch connector on the solonoid. The starter should engage if the solonoid is good. If not, replace the solonoid. If the starter does engage, the problem is with the ignition switch/circuit.
Alvin.

Gotta replace the alternator in my opinion, cause the battery is not getting enough Juice(AMPS) To push the sparks to turn the car on. If you jump the car you will notice it always starts running, but once you turn the car of, and try to turn it over agian, u will hear that click.

Jet-Lee,
To check for battery drain:
a. Key "off", disconnect the (-) battery terminal. Connect a test light between the (-) battery terminal and the disconnected battery cable. It the light comes on, there is a short (drain) somewhere in the electrical system.
b. Disconnect the alternator wiring harness. If the light goes out, there's a problem in the alternator, and it should be replaced.
c. If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out. (This will tell you which component is shorted.)
Alvin
I know that....

I was explaining to them..... :screwy:

I know that....

I was explaining to them..... :screwy:

Jet-Lee,
Sorry, didn't mean to offend you.
I thought you identified the alternator as the 'cause' the car wouldn't start, and stated it should be replaced without making a determination it was defective. I was trying to explain by way of instruction, a simple check (taking only a couple of minutes) could save a lot of money. My philosophy is, testing is cheap, parts are expensive.
Once again, sorry if I mis-understood your statement.
Alvin

Jet-Lee,
Sorry, didn't mean to offend you.
I thought you identified the alternator as the 'cause' the car wouldn't start, and stated it should be replaced without making a determination it was defective. I was trying to explain by way of instruction, a simple check (taking only a couple of minutes) could save a lot of money. My philosophy is, testing is cheap, parts are expensive.
Once again, sorry if I mis-understood your statement.
Alvin
I gotcha. I aimed straight at the alternator because he's already stated that it is defective.
Well, I took it to AutoZone and they ran the test you suggested. The battery is fine (new), the starter is fine (new) but the alternator has a "bad diode". I know what a diode is and what it does, but it doesn't sound like the solution to my problem! The diode lets the alternator "charge" the battery when running but doesn't allow it to "drain" the battery when not running. The diode is like a 'one way switch'... if the diode is bad, it'll drain the battery over time so it'll never start.

I gotcha. I aimed straight at the alternator because he's already stated that it is defective.

Right I agree with jetlee why put off the inevitable?

BTW alvin I didnt know of those steps you mentioned. Thanks for the tips

Right I agree with jetlee why put off the inevitable?

BTW alvin I didnt know of those steps you mentioned. Thanks for the tips

ChevynOva1, Jet-Lee
I have a problem believing the alternator is the culprit for the following reason/s: My rational:
The car did not start by jump starting. This takes the alternator theory out of the equation. The problem has to lie between the battery and the starter i.e. starter relay (solonoid) A faint click of the solonoid as reported means low voltage from the ignition key, or bad ground between the solonoid and the fender, or the (-) battery cable to the chassis, and/or the chassis to engine ground cable. In one of my tags, I suggested to 'hotwire' from battery (+) terminal to the ignition wire terminal on the starter solonoid after the wire was disconnected. Starter should engage if solonoid is good, and (-) cable grounded to the chassis and engine.

1. If, an alternator diode was bad, the 'output' would be affected and the battery would not have received a full charge. Autozone said the battery was 'good'. I would have checked the battery voltage for a 12.5V reading or recharged it.
2. Start the car and recheck the battery voltage at 2,000 RPM reading should be 14 - 15V. Turn on the headlights, voltage should drop momentarily, and then come back up. If it does, alternator is working properly.
2.a. If the battery reads 13V or less at 2,000 RPM, check and see if the alternator indicator light is burning. If it isn't, check to see if it is working when the switch is turned on. (Sometimes a fault in the light circuit will cause the alternator to malfunction). If the light works properly, the fault is in the regulator side of the alternator and it should be replaced.
All the best,
Alvin

From your narrative it sounds like you have a bad starter solonoid (relay) located on L/H inner fender...

OK... FYI: I don't work on my own cars... It's just that my mechanic doesn't know what else to do and I don't want to spend another $400-$600 'trying' things on a hunch.

Since I have a new starter, wouldn't I have a new solonoid too?

Do you honestly beleive that the diode in the alternator would cause this? It's an expensive thing to replace just to 'try', ya know?

I can't 'recreate' the problem (the click), it's very random. But 90% of the time, just opening the hood and shutting it again makes it start. I checked the ground at the frame... it's solid. I can't 'see' any wires that are stripped or touching either.

Get this... the 'click' happened earlier this week and I opened the hood but it still didn't start. THEN I wiggled the "EEC TEST" box and IT STARTED!!! WHAT?!?!?!? I'm at a total loss here! I'm losing my hair from pulling it out! I'm begining to think that the 'wiggle' of opening and shutting the hood is making (or breaking) the faulty connection. All of my (+) pos and (-) neg battery cables that I can follow seem to be in good condition AND connected solidly. I wish someone here has had this problem before AND fixed it.

Would a Ford Service Center be able to figure this out? Would they have ever seen this before? I'm at my wits end with this!

BTW: Thank you ALL for your thoughts and guidance. I will ask my mechanic to check... the ground at the solonoid, the solonoid itself and THEN the alternator (in that order). Cheaper is better!

Rmotl,
"Since I have a new starter, wouldn't I have a new solonoid"?.....No, the two are separate components on the escort.
You are right, you have identified the problem....by moving the EEC or wiring indicates something is loose, and then mades contact. By opening and closing the hood you are causing something loose, or broken to make contact. It is a simple process to find a loose connector, corroded or broken wire, or poor ground with a voltmeter in that area. Although a Ford shop would find the problem quickly if you tell them the events, however, it's not necessary to pay those kinds of shop prices for simple troubleshooting. EXAMPLE: Many times electrical components have 'case grounds' that means there is no ground wire, just the physical contact between the component and the chassis or engine. It is a simple check with a Voltmeter to determine the resistance between the component and the chassis or engine. If there is high resistance, current goes down and things like relays etc. don't work. Keep going, you are almost there.
Alvin

so you've identified a cheap problem....NOW CHANGE YOUR ALTERNATOR!!! AutoZone told you it was bad, now get it fixed. I've been stuck in the snow because of a bad alternator, and had to change it at 11pm (same night, in the snow), in order to get home. It's not fun. GET IT REPLACED!!! A bad alternator can ruin your battery.

Rmotl,
"Since I have a new starter, wouldn't I have a new solonoid"?.....No, the two are separate components on the escort.
You are right, you have identified the problem....by moving the EEC or wiring indicates something is loose, and then mades contact. By opening and closing the hood you are causing something loose, or broken to make contact. It is a simple process to find a loose connector, corroded or broken wire, or poor ground with a voltmeter in that area. Although a Ford shop would find the problem quickly if you tell them the events, however, it's not necessary to pay those kinds of shop prices for simple troubleshooting. EXAMPLE: Many times electrical components have 'case grounds' that means there is no ground wire, just the physical contact between the component and the chassis or engine. It is a simple check with a Voltmeter to determine the resistance between the component and the chassis or engine. If there is high resistance, current goes down and things like relays etc. don't work. Keep going, you are almost there.
Alvin

You could try to unplug that plug then make all the contacts are clean( buy little sandpaper) on both the plug and the other end tabs. Even the case like alvin suggests. Then coat them with a protector dielectric grease, vasaline. = cheep fix

Again I agree with jetlee and the post after this one replace the alternator sooner then later. its 5 degrees here I wouldnt want to fool with it later.

No, the two are separate components on the escort.
You are right, you have identified the problem....by moving the EEC or wiring indicates something is loose, and then made contact. By opening and closing the hood you are causing something loose, or broken to make contact. Alvin

Thank you, I will check the ground at the solonoid and follow the wires near the bat/EEC box to see if I can find it.

And JetLee... YES... I'll change the alternator! Geesh! :p

FYI: I live in Las Vegas... no 5º or snow here! LOL!

Thanks everyone! I'll let you all know how it works out sometime next week!

rmotl

Well.... no one could figure this one out!!!!!

But it finally stop acting up after I sprayed the floor, seats and ceiling
with "Static Guard"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YES STATIC GUARD!

My wife was getting shocked every time she exited the car so I decided
to spray it down with static guard and it's been over 3 weeks without
the above mentioned problem!

It doesn't surprise me that this is the solution since I knew it was a
bizzar problem but still... who would have guessed Static Guard. I've
sprayed the seats once every two weeks and no problems yet! I hope
others read/see this and I hope it helps!

Thanks for all your help everyone!

Well.... no one could figure this one out!!!!!

But it finally stop acting up after I sprayed the floor, seats and ceiling
with "Static Guard"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YES STATIC GUARD!

My wife was getting shocked every time she exited the car so I decided
to spray it down with static guard and it's been over 3 weeks without
the above mentioned problem!

It doesn't surprise me that this is the solution since I knew it was a
bizzar problem but still... who would have guessed Static Guard. I've
sprayed the seats once every two weeks and no problems yet! I hope
others read/see this and I hope it helps!

Thanks for all your help everyone!

if it is true that should be telling you something is not working. (dont get too excited that you cured it I think its a band aid) You know your computer is in the console (at least mine is). maybe the computers connections need attention.

I get a static shock all the time, comin outta my car, but it never hurts the car, just your finger.

probably doesn't matter at this point, but on '91 to '96 1.9 escorts, the solenoid is indeed on the starter, just like "ol' chevy's". no relay on the inner fender like an "ol' ford"...if anyone cares...lol so if ya' got a new starter, ya' got a new solenoid too.

so if ya' got a new starter, ya' got a new solenoid too.

You are right... I got a new solenoid.

Here's the deal... it isn't static, that was just a coincidence. It isn't heat or anything like that!

We've since found out that there's a small 5" x 2½" black box just below the stearing column that has some wires going in and out.

-One wire goes from one end of the box to a plug under the dash that I assume you plug a computer into to test for codes.

-Out of the other end are 3 wires soldered to a small circuit board (with several jumper plugs); one is labeled GROUND, one is labeled POWER, and the other is labeled STARTER. All three seem to have solid conections. I can't follow them all the way through the car to their respective parts.

When the car won't start, we can wiggle the first mentioned cable above, and the car will start. I've also been able to position the cable in such a way that the car won't start, then move the cable and start the car and back and forth consistantly! I know WHERE the problem is coming from, but have no clue how to fix it or even what this box/circuit board does.

If ANYONE knows what this is or what I can do, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!

Thanks!

You are right... I got a new solenoid.

Here's the deal... it isn't static, that was just a coincidence. It isn't heat or anything like that!

We've since found out that there's a small 5" x 2½" black box just below the stearing column that has some wires going in and out.

-One wire goes from one end of the box to a plug under the dash that I assume you plug a computer into to test for codes.

-Out of the other end are 3 wires soldered to a small circuit board (with several jumper plugs); one is labeled GROUND, one is labeled POWER, and the other is labeled STARTER. All three seem to have solid conections. I can't follow them all the way through the car to their respective parts.

When the car won't start, we can wiggle the first mentioned cable above, and the car will start. I've also been able to position the cable in such a way that the car won't start, then move the cable and start the car and back and forth consistantly! I know WHERE the problem is coming from, but have no clue how to fix it or even what this

box/circuit board does.

If ANYONE knows what this is or what I can do, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!

Thanks!

Isnt that the igniton switch (not the key ignition part)

It sounds as if you have isolated a bad wire... replace it.

Isnt that the igniton switch (not the key ignition part)

Thanks for the info... I have searched other forums (sorry) and found the same thing listed...

QUESTION: 1991 Ford / Escort 1.9 mileage 86,000: I've checked all your archives, and I know there are similar problems like the one I'm having, but nothing the same. My car has this recurring problem of not starting. It won't turn over at all. I always have a warning before this is going to happen, though. The parking brake light and fuel cutout lights pop on, and by that I know that if I turn the car off, it won't start again. Also, there will be a couple instances before those lights will even pop on that I will have to turn the key more than once, listen to the relay click each time, to get the starter to even kick on. I've replaced the starter, the battery is at full charge, the connections on both the battery and solenoid are clean, yet I'm still having this problem. Here's the weird thing, and this has happened with both starters that have been in the car while I've owned it. I can jump the terminals on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to make the car start, and it will be fine again for a couple weeks after I do that. The only thing I can think is that the solenoid is sticking... but why would both starters do it? Do you think it could be something in the wiring?

ANSWER: We have repaired cars with similar problems by replacing the ignition switch (not the lock). We suggest buying it from Ford as we have seen some poor quality after market switches.

I will be taking my car to a FORD DEALER to have this work done. I hope others find this thread and can get this frustrating problem resolved!!!

Thanks for everyones help!

11-23-2005: I FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!!

There was a loose connection (1 loose wire) in the plug under the dash where a mechanic would plug in the computer to test for codes. If I removed the wire from its connection, the car wouldn't start... if I plugged it back in, it WOULD start!

I couldn't get the wire to snap back in and hold, so I rigged it and used electrical tape it hold it in place. PROBLEM SOLVED! I might go get a new plug someday, but now that I know WHAT causes this #@(%ing problem, I can fix it!

I hope other can find this information usefull.

The good news is, I now have an anti-theft device, LOL!