how to clean deck surface for head install...

In building my 454 I've noticed that there is still a good bit of gasket material left on the deck from the old head gasket. I've tried gasket remover, a razor blade, and acetone, each with minimal success. I want it to be perfect for the sake of sealing reliability. What can I use?

I have some brass wire wheels for my die grinder. Couldn't I use them since they are softer than the iron of the block? How about scotch-brite pads? Are they harder than the iron?

I don't know what they are called, but i'm thinking they are a 3M product. Anyway, they are these little plastic disks you use in a die grinder or whatever, about 1.5" diameter, with about 100 little fingers on them about 1/4" long. They come in different colors depending on what material they are made for, they work real nice and you don't have to worry about taking to much off, specially on aluminum and other soft metals.

scotch bright disc and (think thats what the guy above is talking about) with a combination of gasket remover is about the best combination I'v found. That brass wheel may work, but be carefull it may glaze the surface of the old gasket material and make it even harder to get off.

Okay, curtis, step away from that car and put down the gasket remover!! Lets not fill the coolant jacket or oil passages with caustic, corrosive material.
First, use the razor blade type scraper and carefully work on the remaining material.
Do not gouge the block.
Once all the chunks of gasket is off, polish the deck surface using a NEW flat mill file, about 12 inches long or so, and with two hands, run the flat face back and forth diagonally over the deck surface. Use broad overlapping strokes, modest pressure and dont work any one spot too long.
Use a small wire brush to clean the file occasionally. This not only does a beautiful job at producing a spotless iron surface, but it will highlight the high spots on the deck surface, and help you pinpoint any problem areas. The file can correct minor high spots. It may take you 1/2 hour or more to properly prep the surface, but the results are perfect.
I have seen 'professional' engine builders use a palm sander loaded with 180 grit to 220 grit sandpaper, and clean a deck in 5 minutes.......while filling up all the passages with sand and debris.

^^ditto

scotch bright

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I use a 3M pad made for paint removal. Takes old gaskets right off. Sandpaper on a sander or block will work(I have done this as well). You are supposed to put rags in the lifter areas and coolant passages anyway so that no pieces of the old gasket or sanding debris get in there. As for using a flat mill file. I guess it would do a nice job. But I've not seen that one. I would be afraid, one slip and you have a divit to fill in?? I have never had a head gasket come back leaking so I guess I am doing something right.

My first gasket replacement was on my gokart. I used sand papaer and gouged a few scratches in the block. i thought if i used lots of gasket sealant it owuld fill in. well it turns out leaks down in on top of the piston and when it dries makes it near imposible for the engine to turn over. ever tried scraping gasket material from a pison? not fun.
anyway, Acetone worked for me. That and Dichloric acid. Which you probably wont be able to get ahold of. If you can sneak into the local HS chemistry lab and steal the Beaker clenaing stuff it is basically an H2O dilute of the stuff. My dad uses a dilute when cleaning computers so that is how i got a hold of it. It didnt eat away at the metal too fast but did clean the gasket and sealant away great. Be careful, this stuff is as strong as 10M HCl. wouldnt want to get it on your hand for very long ;)

Well, here's what I did, good or bad. The block is 60-over and I had some 30-over pistons sitting around. I oiled them up and slid them down in the bores so I didn't have the problem of debris. Then I hit it with the brass wire wheel on the die grinder at about 6000 rpms. Then about 6 passes with acetone on paper towels seemed to clean it up. It still was "stained" with the shadow of the old gasket but my hand said it was smooth.

I would never second guess the wisdom of you folks since (despite my experience in other arenas) I've never assembled an engine on my own and the only head installs I've done have been after a fresh deck mill... but :) ... I've heard horror stories about using anything (and I mean anything) that removes metal unless its a milling machine. The tolerances on deck straightness are incredibly fine given the inability for the head and deck to conform like, say, a header flange.

It might be BS, but I was told that anything that scratches, burnishes, removes, alters, or changes the finish on the deck or head is a very bad thing. It matters little on my current build since its already torqued down, but what do you folks think about that?

I basically agree with MAGICRAT. I have rebuilt a bunch of SBC and that's the procedure I use. Flatness is important and the mill file is a good way to check it. Flatness, finish and torque are all equally important. So keep on slugging it will work!!!

In the old days we would use copper spray paint without a gasket. It would fill in small scratches pretty well. How long it lasted??