engine died what to do

hi guys.i have a 86 runner and with a 22re, the other day a hole developed in the bottom of the rad so the engine overheated. i keep on driving it to my house(10-15 min)since it was all highway and it was very cold out (i was frozen)so i just wanted to get home. the day after i went to get the rad fixed and the engine had a hard time starting but it ran ok. then once i got to the garage (20-25min) i got the rad fixed . i had the same troubles starting it then i stoped off in a near by parking lot cause the heater wasn't working. i was missing a hole lot of prestone. so i added some. went to start the truck and it didn't want to start. so i got it towed to an other garage and as it turned out there was about 2 liters of prestone in the oil and the timing jumped a few notches. oh and the compression is low around 50 psi (that can be due to the timing right?)
so my question is by changing the head gasket and timing chain will that solve my problem or is there posiblities that the head is warped or cracked. cause i don't have a ton of money to spend so i might consider changing the whole engine if the head is bad.
sorry for the long post but i think it will avoid confusion.
thanks for your help

Yes, bad compression is at least partially due to the bad valve timing (may not be the only cause though).

Pull the head and check it for flatness corner to corners and side to sides. If it is warped, then you can estimate how much it will cost vs replacing the engine. With the head off, you can also check the condition of the cylinder bores and the valves. Better an engine you know than an engine you don't know if the costs are about the same.

ya thats sounds good. i was wondering do you know what would make a chain jump. and is it common for the head to be warped or is it rare. just to know cause if it is common for the head to go bad i won't even bother. and save the money at the garage from open it up, when it is probably bad.
thanks for you help!!

Sorry, I don't know how likely it is, but it is not that expensive to pull the head and find out.

tru tru thats what i am gonna do
thanks man

had the same trouble but i blew a cylclinder head gasket and in my part of the woods you dont call anyone to tow you had to fix another took some 4 hours of work and she ran fine again but the head was baldy damaged and shes started over heating am looking into redoin the engine she long over due
all the best

Pull head off...inspect the inside of cylinders for *bluing*(hot spots) and top of CLEANED headgasget mating surface of the block for obvious cracks between and around headgasget bolt holes...remove intake and exhaust manifold...clean off old gasgets careful not to scar/scratch deeply the gasget mating surfaces...check warpage corner to corner with a KNOWN precision straight edge...if it is warped more than .003 and less than .006 get it surfaced/shaved flat...if it is warped more than .006 and for sure if over.009 then you will need to get it straightened by bolting to a plate and put in an oven at machineshop,then resurfaced/shaved....head warpage is very very very common on overheated engines with blown headgasgets and no biggy.Just take head off and clean it up and take down to local machineshop and tell them to check it for warpage and let you know how much and make choice of action by amount warped....pull a vacum on intake and exhaust ports and check valve guides for excessive wear...do a valve job if needed....if not I would at least have them install new valve stem seals that comes with head gasget set....re-install head...change timing chain and gears,thermostat(and water pump if you can afford it),check all hoses and belts,oil change and add water(anti-freeze too be added after she runs and is fixed)*do not let block freeze* and start her up.I have done literially thousands of headgasget jobs and these are steps I take and have seen a great recovery rate of old motors on blown headgasget replacement.

P.S. You may opt to replace timing chain and waterpump after you fire it up,but unless you are planning on buying a brand new motor and want to do things right and more hassle free you will need these parts anyways.

The reason for timing jumping may be due to water filling cylinder(s) and trying to rapidly compress it via starting it and pistons rapidly stopping lol

great thanks man

The reason for the "water in the oil" on a 22re is a hole in the timming case cover.
heres what happens, the spring loaded slack adjuster gets crudded up over the years and gets stuck and that allows the timming chain to "slap" against the cover eventually wearing a double trough right through to the oil cavity.
When it compromises it acts just like a head gasket.
Bad news is to do it "right" the head should be pulled and while your there have a valv job and redeck the surface. those blocks hardly wear in the cylinders.
The timming case covers are RARE finds and I just had mine welded and machined the mating surfaces.

A crudded up slack adjuster could also explain the chain jumping teeth.

oh. but could that be caused by overheating the engine??? confused

You overheated engine=blown headgasget=water in oil....water in oil =watered down oil=lower oil pressure due to less density=slack in chain tensioner which is *pushed* against chain by oil pressure=jumped timing chain.

Sorry I missed water in oil part which related to slack in chain answering why did timing jump (most likely and makes most sense as I have seen it before..rarely)

thanks guys. so i shouldn't need to replace the timing chain right? cause i am planning on selling this runner as soon as i get it fixed. so i don't want to spend usless money for it.
thnaks

Most likely not...you should be able to tell as you are putting it back together(check slack),but be sure and stick something down between chain at tensioner or when chain is dropped off top gear it will pop out and you WILL be removing timing cover to put back in place when it pops out as it is spring loaded....you can use an old broomstick with 2 sides grinded down to fit snug with a hole in one end with wire attached to pull back out as the top end needs to fit below camgear...goodluck

Where are you located? Attarco sells used engines from Japan and they claim to be 30-50k miles. And they warranty them for 6 mos. How many miles do you have on that engine? I dont know how much it is for a 22RE but I just bought an engine from them for my 91 MR2 (5SFE) for $650. Basing on my experience on Toyota engines (not a lot), most of the earlier engines if not all were Non-interference engines. Meaning if they jump a tooth or break timing belt or chain, the pistons doesnt hit the valves. Sounds like it already blew the headgasket on your wat home and you still drove it to the shop the ff day. That trip just guaranteed it!!! If indeed you warped the head, it would probably cost you about the same for a used engine and having the head re-built. Decking/pressure testing/re-building or whatever the machine shop has to do to be able to fix it plus parts. Or if you know how to put it together, you can just have them deck it, pressure check it and get the necessary parts from them, then put it together.
The CALIFORNIA Attarco stores that I know are in San Jose, Berkely, Modesto. Or you can just check your yellow pages for engine surplus stores. Other sores like Shinwa, Japan parts, JDIE etc. etc. Depending on State location, most major cities have these stores. I'm pretty sure they ship. And also, you have the option on having them rebuilt you whole engine on some of these shops. E-mail me at Tosport5876@aol.com if you want #s and such.... Goodluck..

Headgasget is blown and head has to be taken off anyways...can check for bent valves and such then.
If head has to be straightened it is usually 90 bucks and 20-30 bucks for head resurfacing....
For just head resurfacing and headset + oil change and anti-freeze should cost less than 200 bucks.
If motor replacement is nessasary there is also ATK which is a company that sells low milage motors from Japan(over there they have to either rebuild or replace motors at 30,000 miles due to emissions...you will have to plug extra holes in head and use your original intake and exhaust manifold most times with these suppliers.

thanks guys but i live in canada and an engine that costs 650 there would come out to well over 1000 here buy the time it is shipped and everthing. i basically want to get it to run decently for it to be sold. thanks

I would like to think most people here would think more before replying such garbage as just "REPLACE THE WHOLE DAMN THING" with another used junk part that you have no idea about the history of rather than fix what you got for half price or less just because they themselves have the mental ability and common sense (or less even) than a brainless parts changer.

If the above fits then please let those with higher skills and much more experience in repairs answer the technical questions when concerning the internal workings and what to look for inside of motors in the way of damage.
If you have never done more than *parts swap* to try and fix a problem rather than actually have to think and diag. a problem before just REPLACING THE WHOLE DAMN THING....then please do not reply and let others more experienced try and help and actually give more creative experienced feedback.I mean after all,if they wanted to just spend all their money and just "REPLACE THE WHOLE DAMN THING" instead of salvaging it cheaper they would be at the dealership or shop already!!!!

The above is no attack on any individual,just a statement to parts changers and over the shoulder onlookers trying to answer questions with just change the whole damn thing BULLSH*T just because they don't know JACKSH*T and confuse others that are looking for more experienced/*KNOWLEDGABLE* input and help.

thanks guys but i live in canada and an engine that costs 650 there would come out to well over 1000 here buy the time it is shipped and everthing. i basically want to get it to run decently for it to be sold. thanks

I would do headgasget job and would not think about motor replacement unless after inspecting your motor as I described you deem it nessasary...maybe others are made of money and not comfortable with actually finding out what is wrong with a motor and fixing it and are just a parts changer after all and replace just the whole motor....but that is not me or what you seem to be after.

As I said before I have salvaged many an overheated motor with blown headgasgets and rarely have to do more than straighten and shave the head as well as an oil and filter change ect.ect.ect.,to put them back on the road as long as cylinders are not scored,blocked not cracked and motor was not knocking....goodluck and let us know if you have other questions bud.

yup i agree with forest_grump thanks alot man. we need more ppl liek you these days. but there are alot more goodies out there when ppl just change everthing. so i don't really complain. well i lloked at the cylinders and they seam ok so i will get the head looked at and i am almost sure it is warped. i will keep you guys posted.
thanks
anthony