Oil cooler lines

Appearantly my oil cooler lines are leaking, but not at an alarming rate thankfully. I was wondering if anybody has change them before on their own and if they have any pointers or tips they can give me.

Thanks.

Common problem.
Disconnect at oil filter adaptor first and reconnect last.
Use a long (24 inches or longer) extension and 13mm flex socket (or at least an universal joint) to disconnect lower lines off block adaptor. You'll need to go in between the lines.
Slightly jack up driver's side of engine to remove and reinstall lower lines. No need to unbolt mount.

cool thanks for the help...

Mine have been sweating since new and never leak barely anything.

Most people even have them leak with the new replacements.

Mine have seeped for 50K miles now. I wipe them off every now and then. I figure to cut off the old rubber hose part, cut the metal swage fittings with a Dremel, and replace only the hoses with double clamps. Only looking at 60 lbs pressure but would need oil hose that's used for this. Save some real money as those hose assemblies are somewhat expensive. My Blazer is ten years old with 185K miles, if yours is fairly new you might want to go ahead and buy them though.

Yea, light seeping is nothing to be worried about.

I'm searching the forum for an answer & decided to jump on this thread...

Last week, I noticed a single drop of oil on the bottom of my oil filter. Couldn't see anything dripping from above-couldn't even tell what side of the filter the oil was running down from.
Oil level is fine, survived a 900 mile highway trip with no appreciable loss (going by what the dipstick shows), but every day I check & there's that one drop of oil on the filter; wipe it off, & it's back the next day.

For what it's worth, I last changed my oil & filter in March; the oil on the dipstick is still nice & "honey" colored, though the stuff I see on the bottom of the filter is black (I'm guessing/hoping that it's just picking up grime from under the truck)
Never gets enough built up to hit the garage floor, so it's a slow leak whatever it is.

With 114,000+ miles, do ya think maybe this is the "sweating" from the cooler lines you guys are talking about?

I know that's one of those "needle in a haystack" type questions, but any ideas are appreciated!

As always, thanks!
-Mike

The "weeping" usually comes out where the metal line is crimped onto the rubber hose. A drip of oil at the oil filter could be coming from the filter itself, or the seals on the end of the oil cooler lines where it fastens to the filter adaptor. Just check the filter, make sure it's tight. If the filter is okay, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Thanks Rick;

The filter is good & tight. I'll check the lines at the filter adapter next; is there a seal or gasket at that end, or should I just make sure it's tight?

Thanks again!
-Mike

The original design has one seal on each tube where it connects with the filter adaptor. The newest design has twin seals. There is also a possibilty that there may be a slight flaw in the mating surface of the adaptor.

if the leak is on the bottom of the filter, chances are your oil filter could be over tightened and is squashing the gasket on it.

Remember, only 1 turn MAX after the filter gasket starts to seat.

You don't need to crank them on.

the oil lones from gm a junk bad crimps

the oil lones from gm a junk bad crimps

It isn't leaking from the oil cooler lines, it is leaking from the oil filter assembly.

I had leaking lines; replaced with gm replacement lines (from the dealer) that have a double seal on the end. no leaks. I was warned not to overtighten them on replacement. cost for a full set of hoses was around 72.00.

Common problem.
Disconnect at oil filter adaptor first and reconnect last.
Use a long (24 inches or longer) extension and 13mm flex socket (or at least an universal joint) to disconnect lower lines off block adaptor. You'll need to go in between the lines.
Slightly jack up driver's side of engine to remove and reinstall lower lines. No need to unbolt mount.

How long did it take you to do the oil line change over?

I have just undertaken the changing of my oil lines to the engine as well as the cooler. While not very difficult it is an adventure that will take about 2-3 hours.

Equipment:
socket set
25-30 inch socket extension
Floor jack
Jack stand
Oil pan
Screw driver

Drain the oil first, but leave the filter on.

Input Lines to the engine:
1, Jack up drivers side and remove front tire.
2, Remove skid plate.
3, Place block of wood against engine block and, gently, lift up 1-1.5 inches. This is needed to remove the lines.
4, Remove the 10mm screw to the bracket you will find midway on the lines.
5, Place the extension with socket between the lines to the nut on the engine end. You can guide this from the drivers side wheel well.
*Place the oil pan under the line, oil will come out.
6, Remove the nut.
7, Remove the nut on the filter end, and slide the line out.
*Place the oil pan under the line, oil will come out. Make sure you remove the old gaskets from each end before reassembly
8, Reverse proceedure to install.

Cooler lines:

1, Remove the air filter box. This will allow you to remove the cooler lines without removing the radiator.
2, Remove the top and bottom connections to the radiator.
*Place the oil pan under the line, oil will come out.
3, Place the oil pan under the filter and remove the filter.
4, Now remove the bolt holding the cooler lines to the filter housing.
* Remeber to remove the gasket from the filter end.
5, Remove the spring clips and the connections to the radiator end.
* The replacement part to the cooler only costs $10ea from the dealer. The O ring in this part may be worn and it makes sense to replace it now.
6, Reverse directions for assembly.

Finish your oil change.

Hope this helps.

I have just undertaken the changing of my oil lines to the engine as well as the cooler. While not very difficult it is an adventure that will take about 2-3 hours.

Equipment:
socket set
25-30 inch socket extension
Floor jack
Jack stand
Oil pan
Screw driver

Drain the oil first, but leave the filter on.

Input Lines to the engine:
1, Jack up drivers side and remove front tire.
2, Remove skid plate.
3, Place block of wood against engine block and, gently, lift up 1-1.5 inches. This is needed to remove the lines.
4, Remove the 10mm screw to the bracket you will find midway on the lines.
5, Place the extension with socket between the lines to the nut on the engine end. You can guide this from the drivers side wheel well.
*Place the oil pan under the line, oil will come out.
6, Remove the nut.
7, Remove the nut on the filter end, and slide the line out.
*Place the oil pan under the line, oil will come out. Make sure you remove the old gaskets from each end before reassembly
8, Reverse proceedure to install.

Cooler lines:

1, Remove the air filter box. This will allow you to remove the cooler lines without removing the radiator.
2, Remove the top and bottom connections to the radiator.
*Place the oil pan under the line, oil will come out.
3, Place the oil pan under the filter and remove the filter.
4, Now remove the bolt holding the cooler lines to the filter housing.
* Remeber to remove the gasket from the filter end.
5, Remove the spring clips and the connections to the radiator end.
* The replacement part to the cooler only costs $10ea from the dealer. The O ring in this part may be worn and it makes sense to replace it now.
6, Reverse directions for assembly.

Finish your oil change.

Hope this helps.