87 Prelude SI - 2 problems
87ludedude
01-07-2005, 05:38 PM
Hello all - new to the forum.
I have 2 problems with my stock Prelude SI <just shy of 100k miles> and would appreciate any and all input.
1) I had the clutch replaced (actually twice) a short time ago - the clutch cable's adjustment thingy froze up, which resulted in the clutch needing replacement along with a new cable. Shortly after the new clutch was installed, the pedal 'played out' <engaged at top instead of middle> along with jerkiness during shifting and some bearing noise the shop detected. The shop that did the work <specializes in Hondas, Toyotas, and Nissans> said the flywheel was out of spec (5-one-thousanth play) so they machined it and replaced the clutch at no charge. Now it's doing the same thing - pedal is 'played out' - its done this for as long as I've owned the car (4 years) - I baby this thing - almost mint - and definitely don't hotrod it. Its got to be something that hasn't been addressed - any ideas? Like I said, the cable, clutch, and flywheel have been looked at. Could it be something in the transmission that is 'holding back' and causing excess friction on the plate when I get it up to highway speeds?
2) I get front-end vibration at 60-70mph. I have replaced the tires (along with having the new ones balanced) and have moved the stock alloy rims around. Vibration varies day to day. Sometimes there is none when I first get it up to speed - then vibrate - sometimes its there and lessens as I drive. Any ideas?
Thanks for your help.
I have 2 problems with my stock Prelude SI <just shy of 100k miles> and would appreciate any and all input.
1) I had the clutch replaced (actually twice) a short time ago - the clutch cable's adjustment thingy froze up, which resulted in the clutch needing replacement along with a new cable. Shortly after the new clutch was installed, the pedal 'played out' <engaged at top instead of middle> along with jerkiness during shifting and some bearing noise the shop detected. The shop that did the work <specializes in Hondas, Toyotas, and Nissans> said the flywheel was out of spec (5-one-thousanth play) so they machined it and replaced the clutch at no charge. Now it's doing the same thing - pedal is 'played out' - its done this for as long as I've owned the car (4 years) - I baby this thing - almost mint - and definitely don't hotrod it. Its got to be something that hasn't been addressed - any ideas? Like I said, the cable, clutch, and flywheel have been looked at. Could it be something in the transmission that is 'holding back' and causing excess friction on the plate when I get it up to highway speeds?
2) I get front-end vibration at 60-70mph. I have replaced the tires (along with having the new ones balanced) and have moved the stock alloy rims around. Vibration varies day to day. Sometimes there is none when I first get it up to speed - then vibrate - sometimes its there and lessens as I drive. Any ideas?
Thanks for your help.
car_boy_16
01-08-2005, 02:48 AM
1.) All I can think of is for you to check the clutch pedal adjusting nuts for the pedal...
2.) "Vibration" is a very broad word. First question is, what is the frequency of the vibration? Next, where do you notice the vibration? Steering wheel, seat, shift lever? Is it a high frequency teeth rattling vibration, or a lower frequency bone shaker?
If it was a wheel or tire problem, I would expect it to shake between 60-65 MPH, and smooth out to a little less shaking above 70 MPH. That shake would be at wheel speed, about 12 to 14 cycles per second at 60 MPH. For a front wheel it would be very noticeable in the steering wheel. For a rear wheel you would notice it more in the seat of your pants.
Worn and loose wheel bearings can cause wheel wobble type shakes. In the front it might feel like an out of balance wheel. In the back it might feel more through the seat of your pants, but maybe hardly noticeable. Bad wheel bearings commonly make noises, giving off a cyclical rumbling noise that comes and goes at a frequency about 1/3 of the wheel speed.
The tie rod ends could be worn out, causing a vibration in the steering wheel. Poor struts (shocks) can cause this shaking as well...
Worn cv-joints definitely will cause effects from a low humming sound to a harsh vibration through the shifter. Worn/broken motor mounts and/or worn ball joints would be usually both felt through the steering wheel and the shifter.
2.) "Vibration" is a very broad word. First question is, what is the frequency of the vibration? Next, where do you notice the vibration? Steering wheel, seat, shift lever? Is it a high frequency teeth rattling vibration, or a lower frequency bone shaker?
If it was a wheel or tire problem, I would expect it to shake between 60-65 MPH, and smooth out to a little less shaking above 70 MPH. That shake would be at wheel speed, about 12 to 14 cycles per second at 60 MPH. For a front wheel it would be very noticeable in the steering wheel. For a rear wheel you would notice it more in the seat of your pants.
Worn and loose wheel bearings can cause wheel wobble type shakes. In the front it might feel like an out of balance wheel. In the back it might feel more through the seat of your pants, but maybe hardly noticeable. Bad wheel bearings commonly make noises, giving off a cyclical rumbling noise that comes and goes at a frequency about 1/3 of the wheel speed.
The tie rod ends could be worn out, causing a vibration in the steering wheel. Poor struts (shocks) can cause this shaking as well...
Worn cv-joints definitely will cause effects from a low humming sound to a harsh vibration through the shifter. Worn/broken motor mounts and/or worn ball joints would be usually both felt through the steering wheel and the shifter.
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