Not your regular wiper problem...

The wipers work...intermittent...low...high...all is fine...but I cannot shut them off! When I turn it to the off position on the switch, they go on high! I have to sit there and adjust it until it seems to stop, only to come on when you least expect it...on a bright sunny day.

What is going on?

The wipers work...intermittent...low...high...all is fine...but I cannot shut them off! When I turn it to the off position on the switch, they go on high! I have to sit there and adjust it until it seems to stop, only to come on when you least expect it...on a bright sunny day.

What is going on?


I can't say for sure, but the other day my wipers wouln't work. So I checked the fuse and it appeared okay. I put the fuse back and the wipers started to work again. So now I have a watch on the wiper system and I think the problem may be in my fuse box, because the ends of the 25A fuse seemed a little "arched". My guess is that circuit handles a lot of current and when you switch it on and off so many times, any part in the circuit where dissimiliar metals touch may create a little corrosion, and this may be the case at the fuse box, but I am only guessing. Maybe one of our resident experts can comment on this possibility. Or in my case, why would replacing the fuse make my wipers function properly?

I think you hit the nail right on the head with that one, but it could be frayed wiring or loose contacts...

i have a 98 blazer and recently wipers start off on delay then automatically start going all the time with no delay when this happens they wont shut off , i've heard they have a problem with the pulse or delay circuit board located with the wiper motor can find replacements on e-bay 20 -30 bucks good luck

i have a 98 blazer and recently wipers start off on delay then automatically start going all the time with no delay when this happens they wont shut off , i've heard they have a problem with the pulse or delay circuit board located with the wiper motor can find replacements on e-bay 20 -30 bucks good luck


I'm told that if your wipers work on high then there is no trouble with the wiring to the wiper relay, because on high the current is a not being regulated. So it's a good bet that if your wipers work fine on high and not at other points (mas or menos) then I'd say you need to replace the wiper circuit board which is mounted under your hood, against the back fire wall, directly on the wiper motor.

However, there may be one more culprate: Check to make sure the ignition switch/wiring harness (located above your foot pedals) is tight. This big cluster of wires is actually 3 wiring harness held down by one center bolt, and one the wiring harnesses are the wires from your wiper control arm on the steering wheel. (Check that first to see if there is any change in your wiper system.)

my wipers were doing kinda the same thing so i checked with my dealer and they said it sounded like the wiper control module was bad and that they have been havin alot of problems with that i purchades a new mod and the problem seemed to go away the install was pretty easy just be sure to have some rtv to seal the box

How do I locate the wiper motor to replace the module? I got the new module in the other day. Is it under the cowl?

My "98" Blazers wipers will run fine, then stop straight up in the middle while driving in the rain. I have reached out and pulled on them , then they continue for a bit and would stop again. I have also reached out and pulled on them, and they did nothing. Sometimes when they did work, I would turn them off, and they would run for a minute longer then stop. I also have had them stop and not work, but after I shut the engine off, and came back a bit later, they would work. I was thinking of replacing the wiper motor, or is the the control board I have seen people talk about, or something else?? You don't really appriciate wipers until they stop working in the middle of a heavy downpour in fast moving traffic!!

My "98" Blazers wipers will run fine, then stop straight up in the middle while driving in the rain. I have reached out and pulled on them , then they continue for a bit and would stop again. I have also reached out and pulled on them, and they did nothing. Sometimes when they did work, I would turn them off, and they would run for a minute longer then stop. I also have had them stop and not work, but after I shut the engine off, and came back a bit later, they would work. I was thinking of replacing the wiper motor, or is the the control board I have seen people talk about, or something else?? You don't really appriciate wipers until they stop working in the middle of a heavy downpour in fast moving traffic!!

I'm not sure about the pulse board location for an '89, but on the '98, the pulse board sits on top of the wiper motor. This is your problem on the '98. The board costs between $25.00- $40.00 depending on where you buy it. Under the hood towards the driver's side from the center of the firewall, you'll see the motor/pulse board assembly. Disconnect the wire harness, remove the screws that hold the pulse board cover to the motor box, remove the board, re-install the new board putting RTV on the cover and your set to go.

I'm not sure about the pulse board location for an '89, but on the '98, the pulse board sits on top of the wiper motor. This is your problem on the '98. The board costs between $25.00- $40.00 depending on where you buy it. Under the hood towards the driver's side from the center of the firewall, you'll see the motor/pulse board assembly. Disconnect the wire harness, remove the screws that hold the pulse board cover to the motor box, remove the board, re-install the new board putting RTV on the cover and your set to go.


I have the same problem. Quick question.....what's RTV?
And is this a job that I can do easily or is it a little too much for a non-mechanic?

RTV is "Room temperature Vulcanization" silicone rubber. Standard GM "Black" stuff will do. One does not need to purchase a new pulse regulator board if you're handy with a soldering iron. They succumb over time to vibration and the vibes break the connections between the board and various connectors. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can re-solder the affected connectors and restore operation of the board. I recommend using silver solder, it's a bit harder and lasts longer.

I have the same problem. Quick question.....what's RTV?
And is this a job that I can do easily or is it a little too much for a non-mechanic?

Room Temperature Vulcanization; in other words, rubbery glue that won't distort or weld the mating materials, allowing them to be opened again if required, but will not let moisture in.
(I didn't have a tube handy when I did mine, so I used a tube of bathroom Caulk/sealant)

This is a fairly straightforward replacement, anybody with a little bit of mechanical apptitude should be able to do it, ans enjoy the results.
Good Luck

RTV is "Room temperature Vulcanization" silicone rubber. Standard GM "Black" stuff will do. One does not need to purchase a new pulse regulator board if you're handy with a soldering iron. They succumb over time to vibration and the vibes break the connections between the board and various connectors. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you can re-solder the affected connectors and restore operation of the board. I recommend using silver solder, it's a bit harder and lasts longer.

Ooops, sorry for posting the same thing, I didn't see there was a second page (too early in the morning for me).

Silver solder is pretty difficult to work with (HigH Temp stuff), and probably wouldn't mix well with the current Tin/Lead mixture that's currently on the board. Just my opinion.