IMRC modification

This only applies to 1997+ 2.0L SPI engines, sorry guys.

I've researched and done this, and I can honestly say, it WORKS. My 1st gear goes by twice as fast, literally, and my 2nd gear is noticably faster, not to mention the engine doesn't EVER seem like it's bogged down anymore in a tall gear. Here's a "How To".

1. Locate your Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) between your intake manifold and head. It's the long piece that your injectors are set into.

2 Follow it all the way to the driver side and you will see what appears to be a black motor, this is the actuator.

3. Pull the plug off the actuator. To accomplish this, you may have to remove the intake tube. Look at the plug, that you pulled out, head on, with the clip up.

4. Insert a wire into the top half of the top left hole. Bend this backwards over the plug and it sits into a little groove.

5. SHOVE the plug back into the actuator. Don't worry how tough it is, it wont damage anything.

6. Now you have a wire, of whatever length, hanging there. When grounded, this will completely open your Runner Control instantly, but WILL trigger the CEL to come on.

7. Set this to GROUND however you please. Most people opt for a switch. Or you could use a variable resistor, so you can open it only part-way. I, myself, have set it to a DP3T switch next to my steering wheel on the left hand side. This will soon be changed to a regular on/off switch similar to that on a surge protector.

This whole thing opens your second set of runners into the head of your engine, which typically only open at ~3k rpm, and slowly at that. When you open them yourself, you will get better low end torque. You CAN run the wire straight to a ground, and have it open 24/7, but I opted for a switch so I can turn it off, and it operates normally, for fuel economy. Your application is your decision. This DOES work.

Great! I was wondering how to get this done. Do you know how much gas mileage will be affected if left open all the time? I use my '98 escort to run a paper route and need all the low end torque I can get! Also, do you know if this will work on other Split port inducted ford engines? I have a 96 windstar 3.8 SPI and would love to see people stare as I light up the tires from a red light...of course until the AXOD-E rears it's ugly head...
Michael

This only applies to 1997+ 2.0L SPI engines, sorry guys.

I've researched and done this, and I can honestly say, it WORKS. My 1st gear goes by twice as fast, literally, and my 2nd gear is noticably faster, not to mention the engine doesn't EVER seem like it's bogged down anymore in a tall gear. Here's a "How To".

1. Locate your Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) between your intake manifold and head. It's the long piece that your injectors are set into.

2 Follow it all the way to the driver side and you will see what appears to be a black motor, this is the actuator.

3. Pull the plug off the actuator. To accomplish this, you may have to remove the intake tube. Look at the plug, that you pulled out, head on, with the clip up.

4. Insert a wire into the top half of the top left hole. Bend this backwards over the plug and it sits into a little groove.

5. SHOVE the plug back into the actuator. Don't worry how tough it is, it wont damage anything.

6. Now you have a wire, of whatever length, hanging there. When grounded, this will completely open your Runner Control instantly, but WILL trigger the CEL to come on.

7. Set this to GROUND however you please. Most people opt for a switch. Or you could use a variable resistor, so you can open it only part-way. I, myself, have set it to a DP3T switch next to my steering wheel on the left hand side. This will soon be changed to a regular on/off switch similar to that on a surge protector.

This whole thing opens your second set of runners into the head of your engine, which typically only open at ~3k rpm, and slowly at that. When you open them yourself, you will get better low end torque. You CAN run the wire straight to a ground, and have it open 24/7, but I opted for a switch so I can turn it off, and it operates normally, for fuel economy. Your application is your decision. This DOES work.

you have any other free mod/tips?

I'm workin on figuring out the mileage with it open 24/7 at the moment. A little less than half a tank has gotten me ~125 miles so far, so it really doesn't seem that much different.

Chevy, other free mods? I'm workin on a full induction system. It will be free for me, just cause of my friends with junkyards and shops and what not. ItT will essentially be a bored-out short-ram cold-air intake. It will use that "tornado" deal that is advertised all over to more evenly distribute the air(w/ little bit of NOS in far future) to all cylinders. There will be NO IMRC for this. The actuator will instead be used as nothing more than a relay for a couple of different things.

I expect BIG gains from this as a n/a motor. I will not do anything to my exhaust system so as I do not lose what precious backpressure this little 4-banger has. I'm looking to push my car into the 13-14 second 1/4 mile range with money only being spent on what can't be gotten at a junkyard, basically for under $200. When all parts are gotten together and this project really gets underway, I will start taking pics and make a thread that hopefully gets stickied. I've got about half of the parts needed already, and the rest will come in the next few months (what's left is the harder to find stuff).

I'm workin on a full induction system. It will be free for me, just cause of my friends with junkyards and shops and what not. It will essentially be a bored-out short-ram cold-air intake. It will use that "tornado" deal that is advertised all over to more evenly distribute the air(w/ little bit of NOS in far future) to all cylinders.
I expect BIG gains from this as a n/a motor. I will not do anything to my exhaust system so as I do not lose what precious backpressure this little 4-banger has. I'm looking to push my car into the 13-14 second 1/4 mile range with money only being spent on what can't be gotten at a junkyard, basically for under $200.

To get a 2550lb car to run a 13.96 you would need a minumum of 185whp. A stock 5 speed 3rd gen Escort is about 90whp (15-20% loss). And the average stock weight 5 speed 3rd gen run's about 17 flat in the 1/4.

Even the best intake in the world (with or without a tarnado dohicky) wont gain you 100hp or 3-4 seconds in the 1/4 mile.
I have seen a few 15 second 2nd gens (2200-2300lbs) all motor. But they not only had a ported head, intake maniold, throttle body, cam and header but a shaved head for higher compression. Plus 2G have a 100-200 lb weight advantage over a 3g.

Just how do you plan on getting your 3rd gen to run 13-14's?
With N20 it's very possible, but with out some kind of FI power adder or a really worked over motor, I dont see you being able to reach your goal. I'd like to see you do it, but you'll need some major trick up your sleeve...that trick comes in the form of a bottle. :iceslolan

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/419000-419999/419565_153.jpghttp://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/11/web/419000-419999/419565_154.jpg
Possibly with this kind of intake manifold and a combination of higher compresstion you could come closer to your goal?

Finally ran outta gas. Got about 23mpg for the tank with the IMRC always open. Still not too bad.

Jeff, I'll let ya know what's been done when it's finished. It's really top secret. Not even my closest friends know, they just know what part of it they will help with, if at all. I will say, though, it will get P&P, intake, exhaust header (that's all for exhaust), and some other goodies, NOS will be in the far future after it gets some internal work done (rings, valve seats, seals, springs, etc.). There's still a lot being done that I won't mention. It will turn out surprising numbers, trust me.