Cleaning EGR on 95 4.3L 4x4

First off, let me say this forum has been a blessing. I have a 95 S-10, 4x4 with the 4.3L. Not sure of the engine code...I think Z, but I will have to check.

MY Check Engine light is on and I'm looking at fixing several of the codes it's reading. But I'm not sure this relates to that.

This past week, my idling and fuel consumption have been horrible. In the past this has happen due to carbon buildup in the EGR valve. So I've started the typical trouble shooting steps.

I added some injector cleaner in to my last tank of gas.
Yesterday, I cleaned out my Throttle Body.

My next step is to clean my EGR valve. In the past, this is something I've paid to have done but I'm getting tired of that and want to do it myself. I'm pretty sure I know where the valve is (right above the Throttle body) but I'd like to know if there is anything I should watch out for in cleaning it.

I intend to just remove it and clean with the same STP cleaner I used on the throttle body.

Is there anything else I should be cautious of? Thanks ahead of time for your help.

Search the forum, there's plenty on here for cleaning the EGR. Your LEGR should be BELOW the Throttle Body if you have a 4.3 Vortec. It will be round (like a juice can) with a connector on it. Sounds like you have this covered, Good Luck.

Yeah, I did that. I see it's a very common topic. However, I couldn't find specific pictures of what it looked like or any particular procedure on cleaning it.

I saw posts that mentioned everything from soaking it to just taking it off and cranking the engine to blow out the carbon.

I was under the impression it was above the Throttle Body. Now I'm not so sure I have the correct part identified. Basically I search Ebay for a picture of on and thought I had it narrowed down. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a Chiltons.

Any links to more specific information? Thanks!

Remove, clean and reinstall with a new EGR gasket.

No special technique is needed.

Don't drive it like this, it will foul your plugs.

GET OUT THERE AND FIX IT! :D

OK, got the gasket I needed, and was able to successfully locate the EGR valve right where Mikado said it was. Thanks for the heads up.

One last thing; would the EGR valve cause starting issues? When I attmept the start the motor, it turns over just fine. But it takes me several attempts to get it to catch and when it does, it starts off with what appears to be a very low RPM then comes up to 650RPMS or so.

Thanks again all!

yip

OK guys, I just got done. First of, let me tell you I am NOT automotive technical savy. I'm a computer geek to put it in perspective.

Anyway, long story short, I found 2 bb size pellets of carbon stuck in the EGR valve. Used a boat load of STP Throttle Body cleaner and got all of the junk out. She's still starting a bit hard but once cranked she's running VERY smooth. Thanks for all the feed back BlazerLT and Mikado14. You just saved me $80.

For anyone who's going to try this I have a couple of words of advice.
1) Let you engine cool off! That's probably common sense to some of you, but then you have impatient people like me!
2) When you go to take the EGR Valve off, use an extension for your ratchet and come from the Fan through the serpentine belt to the bolt. It's MUCH easier. I didn't see that until it was time to put the valve back on.
3) Have some Throttle Body spray handy. The valve is going to be very dirty.

Anyway, I'm off to drive her a bit to blow the cob webs out. Thanks again guys!

Hope you used a fresh EGR gasket when you reinstalled it.

Oh yeah. Picked one up at the AutoZone. $4.95

Just checkin ;)

Another update.

After putting about 150 miles on my truck since cleaning the EGR valve, the problem seems to have returned. Since I can now fix this in about 30 minutes, it's not as bad as it sounds but it is annoying to have it return so soon.

I read in one post what sounded like the guy cranked his truck while the valve was off to blow out the carbon. Is this a good idea?

Is there anything I can do to help prevent this from happening so quickly? The only precaution I've taken is to run a bottle of GumOut Injector Cleaner through my tank about once a month.

Lastly, I was wrong in saying my engine was Z, it's a W.

Thanks again!

Another update.

After putting about 150 miles on my truck since cleaning the EGR valve, the problem seems to have returned. Since I can now fix this in about 30 minutes, it's not as bad as it sounds but it is annoying to have it return so soon.

I read in one post what sounded like the guy cranked his truck while the valve was off to blow out the carbon. Is this a good idea?

Is there anything I can do to help prevent this from happening so quickly? The only precaution I've taken is to run a bottle of GumOut Injector Cleaner through my tank about once a month.

Lastly, I was wrong in saying my engine was Z, it's a W.

Thanks again!
It sounds as if you have an unusual carbon buildup. You can do the cleanout you mentioned, just don't have anyone standing in front. You might be running on the rich side, you may want to check for washing inside of your plenum. Remove the cover and the IMTV and look inside with a light. If you see washing, you need parts (CPI and nut kit).

Also, when was the last time a complete tune-up was performed?

Roughly speaking, is there any thing that describes how to perform that task?

Also, about what would those parts run me?

Roughly speaking, is there any thing that describes how to perform that task?

Also, about what would those parts run me?

Nutkit is about $56 from the dealer.

I purchased a CPI unit from our local jobber for $156.

You will also need a new plenum gasket.

How many miles since your last tune-up? How many overall miles?

Total miles are 169500
Last tuneup was at 125K miles.

I could use one, I'm sure. I've also got two P code errors I'm looking at fixing along with a tempermental 4x4 thing. All those appear to be very common based on my searches.

Truth be told, I'm just trying to get her a little better sounding so I can sell/trade her. So I'm not looking to spend much.

It's been a great truck but it's time for me to move on. :)

What codes did you get?

Also, take a look to see if there are golden washed spots in the plenum.

The excessive carbon is from a leaking injector in most cases.

OK, got the codes pulled. They are:
P0134 - O2 circuit Not Active Bank 1 Sensor 1
P1406 - Aux. Emission Control.

I'm also getting a pretty strong smell of gas fumes while it's idling. So the running rich sounds about right.

I'm looking around right now for information on what I would need to do to check the plenum.

I just told you what to do.

Please pay attention.

Your O2 sensor before the cat is defective and needs changing.

P1406 is the EGR problem, pull the EGR valve and check for carbon plugging it. This code is for when the pintle is blocked open by carbon.

I'm listening, but don't forget, I'm not mechanically savy. You didn't tell me what to do, you told me what to look for. I wasn't sure what the Plenum was until I found a reference for it on the web.

I'll check on the O2 sensor.

Now, I didn't reset my codes after I cleaned the EGR valve the first time. Any chance that has something to do with this also?

Yes, reset the codes.

Then drive for a bit and see if it helps.

You need to reset the computer when you do any modifications and work just to clean the slate.

Thanks much. I'll try the next round of ideas and check back.