Suspension recalls

I have a 2000 Blazer (obviously!) and was reading up on safety recalls and defects. I keep finding info on front suspension parts being defective. Do I just need to take it to the dealer and have them check to see if it needs to be replaced if it is defective? If it is, do I have to pay or does the dealer cover it since the NHTSB says it is defective?

Depends on the listing, some are mandatory and some are up to the dealer to decide.

If there is nothing wrong with your truck, don't go looking for something to fix.

Also, grease all 11 grease fittings on your front end.

dude, blazerlt is totaly WRONG! if it is a suspension recall get it done asap. those recalls are there for a reason. suspension will be a saftey recall. get it done.

take it to the dealer and they will check your vin number against the recalls and if its yours there will be no charge at all . if there is a charge they will tell you before any work is done.

a recall is not looking for something wrong . it is something wrong that needs to be fixed.

No, I am not WRONG!

Some are recalls that they will cover completely and some are recalls that they will PARTIALLY cover.

Don't discredit my advice noob.

Well I will take it up when I get the oil changed (free oil changes with the car purchase) andhave them check it and replace whatever is free if it is anything major.

Now I just have to figure out why my radiator looks like someone poured mud into it. I have that extended life stuff and my reservior is always at a good level but my truck smelled like it was over heating, though the temp gauge showed it as normal. I opened the radiator any it was almost dry and the cap had a muddy like substance all over it and was just filhty. So need to flush it this weekend and take care of that first. Kind of odd thouhg. first time I have had a car do that.


Also, about the eleven fittings. I am in no way a mechanic, is there a diagram/picture/faq showing how to do this? I am sure it is something simple but I have just never done it before.

You need to go get your cooling system and heater core flushed and filled ASAP.

Then you need to install a new non AC delco rad cap. The stock cap is flawed and is causing the mud.

The grease fittings are on all of the ball joints, both ends of both tie rods, and the idler and pitman arm.

Also check for grease fittings on your U-Joints.

Go with a "Stant" brand rad cap

Without knowing your full VIN number, I cannot check if there are any open recalls on your vehicle...take it to a GM dealer and they can tell you for sure.
At a general glace, I did not see anything for suspension, but I did find one on brakes.......may not apply to your specific vehicle.
There are 4 or 5 classifications of recalls and for the most part, recalls are done at no expense to the consumer....there are some special policies that are considered under recall rules that may offer limited reimbursement for repairs

Oh yea..if you really want to get technical..they are not recalls, they are campaigns

ahh, well I dont know how to flush a heater core or anything. I just know how to do the radiator. I found a place in town that does the whole system for $70 including refilling with dex cool stuff. Might just carry it up there and have them do it right. Will look for the cap at the local parts places. Will the thermostat need to be replaced?

You can do it yourself for about $30, it's not very hard either.

ahh, well I dont know how to flush a heater core or anything. I just know how to do the radiator. I found a place in town that does the whole system for $70 including refilling with dex cool stuff. Might just carry it up there and have them do it right. Will look for the cap at the local parts places. Will the thermostat need to be replaced?

Yea, that will be money well spent.

They take care of the mess and will really flush it better than anyone can do it at home.

As for the thermostat, if you are having no problems with it now, I can't see you having any problems after.

But do get the new rad cap installed and remember, NOT AC Delco brand and never a falesafe.

Well guys, I appreciate the help. Seems like i have some work to do this weekend!

Ahhh, the beauty of a Blazer -

It means you never have nothing to do on the weekends! ;) Mine keeps me turning wrenches on the weekend too - not that I mind. It is a contest of wills, and thus far, mine is stronger. *Muahahaha!*

I'm gonna have to disagree with BlazerLT.

You said it was a local shop, the small local shops that I have seen don't do anything that you can't do better at home. The Chevy dealer on the other hand will do a far better job than you can do, but this will probably come with a hefty price tag.

If the choice is between a local shop and doing it yourself...do it yourself.

Price list:

2 gallons of DEXCOOL...........$20.00
Prestone Super Rad Cleaner...$ 6.00 (not "flush" get the "Cleaner")
Prestone Flush N Fill Kit.........$ 4.00
Knowing you did it right
and saved 40 bucks.............priceless

The Flush N Fill kit is essential to doing a good flush yourself, it hooks into your heater hose and let's you connect a water hose to your system and push out any trash.

Follow the directions on the packages in this order:
Use the Flush N Fill first, then the Super Cleaner, then use the Flush N Fill again, Drain the system, Then fill with a 50/50 mix....you will have about 1/2 a gallon of DEXCOOL left over fill the jug with water, that will give you 50/50 mix to take with you, in case you need to add some as the air is worked out of the system.

Make sure you replace the radiator cap (perferably with a "Stant") because this is probably what caused all your problems in the first place.

I'm gonna have to disagree with BlazerLT.

You said it was a local shop, the small local shops that I have seen don't do anything that you can't do better at home. The Chevy dealer on the other hand will do a far better job than you can do, but this will probably come with a hefty price tag.

If the choice is between a local shop and doing it yourself...do it yourself.

Price list:

2 gallons of DEXCOOL...........$20.00
Prestone Super Rad Cleaner...$ 6.00 (not "flush" get the "Cleaner")
Prestone Flush N Fill Kit.........$ 4.00
Knowing you did it right
and saved 40 bucks.............priceless

The Flush N Fill kit is essential to doing a good flush yourself, it hooks into your heater hose and let's you connect a water hose to your system and push out any trash.

Follow the directions on the packages in this order:
Use the Flush N Fill first, then the Super Cleaner, then use the Flush N Fill again, Drain the system, Then fill with a 50/50 mix....you will have about 1/2 a gallon of DEXCOOL left over fill the jug with water, that will give you 50/50 mix to take with you, in case you need to add some as the air is worked out of the system.

Make sure you replace the radiator cap (perferably with a "Stant") because this is probably what caused all your problems in the first place.




Wow, thanks for the info. I will check that out tomorrow. Will definitely pick up the radiator cap as well.

You can get one from Advance Auto for about 5 or 6 bucks.

You can get one from Advance Auto for about 5 or 6 bucks.

I understand you disagreeing with me, but I didn't state the alternative just for the sake on money.

The mess for this one time job can be considerable and I don't mind having someone take care of that for me instead of having my driveway covered with dumped coolant and kitty litter everywhere soaking it up.

And the cleaners they use at the shop are a little stronger and more effective than the glorified soap they use for the prestone kits. They are known to be really weak and our cooling system with defective and gunked up heater cores and passageways require the stronger cleaners to get the job done right the first time.

Mine required a tripple reverse flush to clean the system properly. Try to do a triple reverse flush with one of those kits, I guarantee you won't be able to do it.

To each there own I guess, I like getting dirty like the next guy, but for cooling and tranny servicing, I like to have them handle the mess.

I understand you disagreeing with me, but I didn't state the alternative just for the sake on money.

The mess for this one time job can be considerable and I don't mind having someone take care of that for me instead of having my driveway covered with dumped coolant and kitty litter everywhere soaking it up.

And the cleaners they use at the shop are a little stronger and more effective than the glorified soap they use for the prestone kits. They are known to be really weak and our cooling system with defective and gunked up heater cores and passageways require the stronger cleaners to get the job done right the first time.

Mine required a tripple reverse flush to clean the system properly. Try to do a triple reverse flush with one of those kits, I guarantee you won't be able to do it.

To each there own I guess, I like getting dirty like the next guy, but for cooling and tranny servicing, I like to have them handle the mess.

The Chevy dealer uses the same Prestone cleaner I told him to get theirs is in powder form and a little stronger though. They also use the Prestone Flush N Fill kit told him about.

I stated if the choice is between a small local shop and doing it yourself, to do it yourself. The chevy dealer is the best, but not good enough to justify the price. Small local shops use the same stuff we can, but they usually don't have a step by step procedure laid out. They just say "we'll clean it" and leave it up to the 17 year old tire changer to figure out how.I had one try to charge me $50 to put a water hose in the radiator and let it run for five minutes, they didn't even use a cleaner.

Yes I agree it does make a mess, but it is worth it because you can definitely do a better job than a local shop.

Thanks to a cut and paste from BOWTIEBANDIT
Here is the GM procedure.

1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models (Blazer, Jimmy, Sonoma, S10 Pickup)

1998-2000 GMC Envoy

1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada

with 4.3L V6 Engine (VINs W, X -- RPOs L35, LF6)

This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-06-02-012C (Section 06 -- Engine).

Condition
Some customers may comment that the heater is inoperative, blows cold air, engine may exhibit an overheat condition or the coolant reservoir has rust in it.

Cause
Vehicles equipped with DEX-COOL® coolant, which may have been operated for extended periods of time with a low coolant level, usually in excess of 32,000 km (20,000 mi), may be susceptible to the formation of a rust-like material in the cooling system.

Correction
Flush the cooling system using the repair procedures that follow.

Parts and equipment required/suggested for this correction are listed below.

1 each *Prestone® Flush and Fill Kit #AF-KITP U.S. (#00050 in Canada). This kit can be obtained from your local parts supplier and can be used on all vehicles repaired under this procedure. Save it after performing the repair, as it is reusable.
1 each *Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500 - 1 per vehicle. This cleaner is in powder form and contains a neutralizer. Do not substitute other cleaners. The diluted cleaners that are available in liquid form are not recommended for this repair.
5.7 L (6 qt) of 100% (non-diluted) DEX-COOL® coolant (GM Spec 6277M).
1 each new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335.
2 each new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565.
1 each *Prestone® yellow funnel. This funnel can also be obtained from your local parts supplier. It fits snugly into the radiator opening for an easy fill and is reusable.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.


Important
Verify the fuel level in the fuel tank. The fuel level should be above ¼ tank before this procedure is started.

As a precaution, verify the oil level in the crankcase. Add the amount required to bring the oil level into the normal range.

It is recommended the vehicle be placed in a position so that the following are available:

A sanitary sewer -- not a storm drain, etc
A monoxivent system (if the outside temperature is less than 10°C (50°F)).
Hot running water


Notice
Due to the complexity of these procedures, the following repair steps must be strictly adhered to in order to achieve the intended results. Any deviation or substitution may result in sub-standard cleaning/flushing results or system damage.


Diagnostic Procedure
Install the Scan Tool. This will allow monitoring of the coolant temperature throughout the procedure.

Caution
As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap. Under some conditions, the engine coolant is combustible.



Important
The installation of a NEW radiator cap at the beginning of this procedure and the second new cap at the end of the repair procedure is necessary in order for the correct pressure to be achieved and for the repair to be completed successfully.
The radiator cap is NOT a good indicator of the general condition of the cooling system. Typically the underside of the radiator cap will exhibit a greater amount of contamination than the rest of the system. It is important to evaluate the condition of the cooling system by checking the following before beginning the repair procedure:

Remove the radiator cap. Install a new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565. A properly operating radiator cap is essential for this procedure to work properly. Be sure to wipe off all radiator cap sealing surfaces prior to installation.
Start the engine.
Using a flashlight or lead light, look into the radiator. From the right side of the vehicle, peer into the radiator toward the left side of the vehicle. Observe the top three rows (or tubes) of the radiator. (It may be necessary to drain off some of the coolant to see the top three rows of the radiator). If it appears the coolant is able to flow through the third row down from the top, the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure A. If it appears the coolant is NOT able to flow through the third row down from the top, then the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure B.
Stop the engine.
Repair Procedure A & B

Important
If available, use coolant exchanger Pro-Fill 42-75100-KM, Power Flush 211-07601/DEX (available through the GM Dealer Equipment program), or equivalent to evacuate the system of coolant. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for exchanging used coolant with new coolant. However, for this procedure, use water in place of new coolant. Be sure to exchange 1½ times the cooling system capacity of the vehicle with water. This will ensure that only water remains within the cooling system. Once the coolant has been displaced with water, drain the water from the radiator.
If you are located within an area which regulates the disposal of used coolant (check with your local water treatment facility), all coolant and coolant/water mixture must be captured until the water runs clear of coolant. Use a clean 208 L (55 gal) drum or similar to contain the waste coolant. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006 for information on coolant recycling and removal services.

Drain and properly dispose of the coolant.

Caution
Any obstructions in the hoses to or from the coolant recovery bottle may cause over-pressurization of the cooling system. This over-pressurization could result in serious personal injury.


Inspect the following hoses in order to assure there are no obstructions and the coolant is able to flow freely:
The hose to the coolant recovery bottle.
The relief hose from the coolant recovery bottle.
Disconnect both coolant hoses to the heater core from the engine.
Back flush the heater core for 5 minutes after clear water is present. Pressurized water not to exceed 345 Kpa (50 psi), may be used.
Reinstall the heater return hose to the engine.
Install the radiator cap and properly tighten.
Install the "T" from the flush and fill kit to a 25.4 cm (10 in) piece of 19 mm (¾ in) heater hose. Tighten the clamp.
Install the hose to the engine. Tighten the clamp.
Install the other end of the "T" in the heater core inlet hose. Tighten the clamp.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Properly position the hose, so the accessory drive belt or any pulley/belt cannot touch the hose.
If you used coolant exchange equipment, disconnect it.
Attach a garden hose to the "T" of the flush and fill kit. Turn on the water and back flush the cooling system for at least two minutes after the water runs clear.
Start the engine and continue back flushing the cooling system for five additional minutes.
Turn the engine "OFF".
Turn the water "OFF".
Re-attach the upper radiator hose to the radiator.
Open the radiator drain and drain all water from the radiator.
Remove the lower left water pump crossover bolt. This allows lowering the water level in the left side of the engine.
After the water stops running from the water pump bolt hole, reinstall the bolt.
Close the radiator drain.
Mix the Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, in approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm water. Pour the mixture into the radiator. Top off the system with plain water and reinstall the radiator cap.
Run the engine at 1600 to 1800 RPM with the air conditioning in the maximum cool position. To achieve the 1600 to 1800 RPM, place a dime between the closed throttle stop and the screw. This screw should never be adjusted, under any circumstance. Its only purpose is to keep the throttle plate from sticking in the bore when the throttle is slammed shut. It is not a minimum idle (RPM) control adjustment screw.

Important
It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed from the cooling system in order for the cleaning procedure to be effective.

Service Procedure A
For Service Procedure A, the cleaner should be left in the system for three hours (after normal operating temperature of the cooling system has been achieved). Normal operating temperature is when the coolant temperature stabilizes around 98°C (200°F). The best results are obtained when the coolant temperature is between 98°C (200°F) and 110°C (230°F). DO NOT EXCEED 113°C (235°F). Use the Scan Tool to determine when this point has been reached. When this temperature has been reached, start the clock. Periodically (every twenty minutes or so), monitor the coolant temperature and engine during the three hour run time. A half hour has been built into the actual labor time to cover for the time spent monitoring the engine, etc.

In order to achieve a constant temperature of 98°C (200°F) to 110°C (230°F) during this procedure, maintain the idle speed, turn on the A/C or partially close the hood.

Service Procedure B
For Service Procedure B, the cleaner should be left in the system for two and a half hours (after normal operating temperature of the cooling system has been achieved). Normal operating temperature is when the coolant temperature stabilizes around 98°C (200°F). The best results are obtained when the coolant temperature is between 98°C (200°F) and 110°C (230°F). DO NOT EXCEED 113°C (235°F). Use the Scan Tool to determine when this point has been reached. When this temperature has been reached, start the clock. Periodically (every twenty minutes or so), monitor the coolant temperature and engine during the two and a half hour run time. A half hour has been built into the actual labor time to cover for the time spent monitoring the engine, etc.

In order to achieve a constant temperature of 98°C (200°F) to 110°C (230°F) during this procedure, maintain the idle speed, turn on the A/C or partially close the hood.



Important
The vehicle should not be left idling outdoors when the ambient temperature is below 10°C (50°F). The flushing procedure relies on heat as a catalyst in order to be effective. Ambient temperatures below 10°C (50°F) do not allow sufficient cycling of the thermostat to effectively clean the cooling system.


Turn off the engine.
Remove the dime from the closed throttle stop screw. Do NOT remove the radiator cap. Following the procedure listed below will assist you in draining the cooling system thoroughly.
Place a drain pan under the radiator drain hose.

Caution
The cooling system and coolant are hot and under pressure. Loosen only the radiator drain until the pressure has been released from the cooling system and follow the procedures exactly in this bulletin, using normal safety precautions to avoid being injured by the hot coolant mixture.


Loosen the radiator drain. Drain approximately 1 L (1 qt) of liquid from the system.
After the pressure has been released from the cooling system, slowly loosen the radiator cap to the safety stop. Do not remove the cap (This releases the spring pressure on the secondary seal while retaining the primary seal to the top of the filler neck and will allow the coolant reservoir to be evacuated).
When the coolant reservoir is empty, re-tighten the radiator cap fully.
Remove the cap from the flush and fill "T". This will allow the coolant to be siphoned from the heater core and the engine block.
When the water has stopped coming out of the radiator drain hose, close the radiator drain. Do not place the cap on the "T".
Using Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, mix the neutralizer (from the bottom of the can) with approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm (shower temperature) water.

Notice
Do not put cold water into a hot engine as engine damage may occur.

Under no circumstances should the neutralizer be left in the cooling system for any longer than ten minutes once the vehicle has reached operating temperature (thermostat open). The neutralizer is corrosive to aluminum and will damage system components if it is left in the cooling system for longer than ten minutes.


Pour the mixture from the step above into the radiator.
Completely refill the cooling system with warm to hot water through the "T". When the radiator is full, install the radiator cap to the safety catch. Continue to fill until the overflow reservoir is filled to the hot line on the reservoir.
Remove the fill hose and install the cap on the "T" and the radiator fully.

Important
It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed in order for the procedure to be effective.


Start the engine. After engine speed stabilizes, reinstall the dime between the closed throttle stop and the screw. With the A/C on, bring the cooling system back to normal operating temperature and follow the directions on the can.
Turn off the engine.
Remove the dime from the closed throttle stop and the screw.

Caution
As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap.


Drain the cooling system, following the procedure listed in Step 24 above.
Do not close the radiator drain. Leave it open.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Properly position the hose, so the accessory drive belt or any pulley/belt cannot touch the hose.
Attach a garden hose to the "T" of the flush and fill kit. Turn on the water and back flush the cooling system for at least two minutes after the water runs clear.
Start the engine and continue back flushing the cooling system for five additional minutes.
Turn the engine "OFF".
Turn the water "OFF".
Close the radiator drain.

Important
If the repair is a Procedure A, go to Step 40.

If the repair is a Procedure B, remove the radiator and have it recorded and steam clean the end tanks. After reinstalling the radiator, continue to Step 40.


Remove the air cleaner housing and tube assembly from the throttle body.
Remove the two nuts holding the throttle cable bracket to the throttle body and position the bracket and the cables out of the way.
Remove the thermostat.
Remove the previously installed flush kit "T" and hose. Save for future use on other vehicles.
Install the heater inlet hose to the intake manifold and secure with the original spring clamp.
Inspect the thermostat opening and cover for foreign material. Clean if necessary.
Remove the left lower water pump crossover bolt to drain the left side of the block and the left cylinder head.
Install sealant to the bolt threads, using GM P/N 12346004 (Canada GM P/N 10953480), or equivalent and reinstall the water pump crossover bolt. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 41 N·m (30 lb ft).

If available, use coolant exchanger Pro-Fill, Power Flush, or equivalent to fill the system with 50/50 DEX-COOL® coolant. If a coolant exchanger is not available, proceed to the next step now. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for system fill/coolant exchange. If you are using coolant exchange equipment, you will need to install a new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335 and top off the system with clean drinkable water prior to exchanging. After exchanging, install the upper radiator hose and clean out the coolant recovery bottle. Proceed to Step 56.
Pour 5.6784 L (6 qts) of 100% (not pre-mixed) DEX-COOL® coolant into a clean container.
Using a clean funnel, pour as much of the 100% DEX-COOL® coolant that you can into the engine through the thermostat opening.
Install a new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to the specified torque of 19 N·m (14 lb ft).

Hold the upper radiator hose in the straight up position and pour 0.473 L (1 pint) of the 100% DEX-COOL® coolant into the hose.
Install the upper radiator hose to the radiator and properly position the clamp.
Flush the coolant recovery bottle thoroughly.
Complete the fill of the cooling system with the balance of the 5.7 L (6 qt) of 100% DEX-COOL® coolant and top off with plain water. If the water is not drinkable, do not use. Water must be clean and fresh.

Important
The second new radiator cap must be installed at this point of the procedure. It is possible that small contaminants may have become lodged in portions of the first cap during the cleaning procedure.


Clean the radiator cap sealing surfaces on the radiator. Install the radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565.

Important
It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed in order for the cooling system to function properly.


Run the engine to operating temperature with the air conditioning in the maximum cool position for ten minutes.

Caution
As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap. Under some conditions, the engine coolant is combustible.


Turn the engine "OFF" and let it cool.
Check the coolant concentration for a 50/50 mix, using refractometer J 26568 (Centigrade scale) or J 23688 (Fahrenheit scale). Follow the manufacturer's directions for using the coolant tester. Unless your coolant tester has a provision for temperature correction, it is imperative that the correct coolant temperature is achieved when testing the coolant. If the coolant is warmer or cooler, the reading may be incorrect.
Top off the radiator and fill the coolant recovery bottle to 2.54 cm (1 in) above the full hot mark on the coolant reservoir. Add the appropriate coolant mixture to come to a 50/50 mix of the DEX-COOL® coolant.

Important
To assure intended system performance, inform the customer that the cooling system MUST be maintained in a completely full condition.


Parts Information
Part Number
Description

12346500
Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner

12563335
Thermostat

15075565
Radiator Cap

[QUOTE=blazee]The Chevy dealer uses the same Prestone cleaner I told him to get theirs is in powder form and a little stronger though. They also use the Prestone Flush N Fill kit told him about.

I have a brother that works for a chevy dealer and i wouldn't even let him change my oil, just cuz they work for a dealer don't make the guy doing the repair good, something like a flush they would have a guy in training doing it anyway,
you would probly get the same job as midis



15075565
Radiator Cap????
from i i heard from here you stay away from this part

That post was to explain why it is better to do it yourself. I posted the procedure so he could see that you can do the same thing at home. I never said to use an AC Delco Rad Cap. Yes that Rad Cap is junk, that is why in my other posts I said to use a "Stant" Rad Cap. If you would have read the other posts you would have known this.

I have a brother that works for a chevy dealer and i wouldn't even let him change my oil, just cuz they work for a dealer don't make the guy doing the repair good, something like a flush they would have a guy in training doing it anyway,


Just because your brother is an idiot doesn't mean that all dealer techs are.
An involved flush procedure like the one described in the bulletin is usually given to an experianced tech.
most of the time this procedure will work, others it is necessary to remove the water pump and freeze plugs to get the contamination out of the block..also they may need to replace the heater core.

Also use the Stant cap

Just a couple of comments. I like changing my own anti freeze, however in my area the is NO ONE who will take the old crud. Advance Auto will take old oil / transmission fluids, but not anti freeze. I have even called the local government agencies and they have no clue. Garages use specialty companies who will haul away for a fee, but they don't do this for individuals. Any ideas????? I don't want to comtaminate the soil here.
Appreciate the info on the caps, did not know this. Also, god forbid anyone would do this, but I have seen people make the mistake of adding green fluid to the orange stuff. Not a pretty sight!

Just a couple of comments. I like changing my own anti freeze, however in my area the is NO ONE who will take the old crud. Advance Auto will take old oil / transmission fluids, but not anti freeze. I have even called the local government agencies and they have no clue. Garages use specialty companies who will haul away for a fee, but they don't do this for individuals. Any ideas????? I don't want to comtaminate the soil here.

And now you see why I like to have others handle the mess.

[QUOTE=GMMerlin]I have a brother that works for a chevy dealer and i wouldn't even let him change my oil, just cuz they work for a dealer don't make the guy doing the repair good, something like a flush they would have a guy in training doing it anyway,


Just because your brother is an idiot doesn't mean that all dealer techs are.

first i will say my statement wasn't a flame,
2nd my brother is an idiot.
3rd your right, all dealer techs arn;t all bad, i never said that.
not all private techs are nether, but its a 50/50 shot you can get the idiot tech no matter what garage you take it to.

Ok guys, relax.

Just a couple of comments. I like changing my own anti freeze, however in my area the is NO ONE who will take the old crud. Advance Auto will take old oil / transmission fluids, but not anti freeze. I have even called the local government agencies and they have no clue. Garages use specialty companies who will haul away for a fee, but they don't do this for individuals. Any ideas????? I don't want to comtaminate the soil here.
Appreciate the info on the caps, did not know this. Also, god forbid anyone would do this, but I have seen people make the mistake of adding green fluid to the orange stuff. Not a pretty sight!

I don't think my town has any laws about it. Before I started doing it myself, I would take my Impala to a shop every 6 months to have it flushed (better safe than sorry, DEXCOOL ate out my intake gasket gummed up my system caused it to overheat which busted the heater core, the reserve tank, seals on the water pump and burnt up the tranny.NOT PRETTY), anyways when they would flush the system they just let it run out on the ground and through the parking lot. Rust, antifreeze, flush, everything right out on the ground. I'm not saying I agree with this practice, just telling you what they did.

I have a 1996 Blazer. I had Jiffy Lube power flush my radiator, and tranny & diff fluids + an oil change. The tech saw the "mud stuff" and said he thought the previous owner mixed dex-cool with the old (green) anit-freeze, because the fluid was dark pinkish/muddish color.

A couple weeks after the flush & fill I noticed the reservoir jug was muddy again, after it was cleaned during the flush two weeks ago.

After reading this thread; are you guys/gals suggesting the problem is the AC Delco radiator cap? If so, how can a cap make this problem?

Thanks in advance,

-TuBlaz

This is along debated issue. Everyone sees the problem, well everyone but Chevy.

I will try to make this brief. The AC DELCO radiator cap has design flaws that cause it to lose pressure and allow air into the system. The air and water cause the metal to rust. The rust contaminates the coolant. The contaminates cause the sludge.

The AC delco cap lets in air which is the death of DEXCOOL. Air is not DEXCOOL's friend. Put on a new STANT cap and the mud shouldn't reform. Good Luck

Oh yeah... This can also be caused by not having enough coolant. FYI keep your Coolant level full and replace your radiator cap with a "Stant" brand cap
Even though I personally refuse to use DEXCOOL it does work good keeping the system cool and clean, but you have to keep an eye on it.

Well, if the EPA knew about it, they would slap them with a fine for 1000s of bucks and is in no way the reason anyone should do it. Just because one retard that doesn't care about the environment, doesn't me we follow his dumb example of being destructive.

BTW, your intake gasket was faulty from the factory. The engine assembly guys were given the wrong torgue values for the intake bolts and it caused the internal leak.

"Blazee" be carefull when talking about BlazerLT as he is a valuable resource for me and many of us who frequent this site. He deserves to be treated with respect.

BlazeLT thanks for all the information and time you put in. I appreciate it alot.

Josh Bowerman
Barrie Ontario Canada

Don't tell me to be careful, I know what the hell I'm talking about.

Should the hose coming from the radiator on the drivers side be firm at operating temp? I squeeze it after the engines hot and it's as loose as a goose. The radiator is full to the max but I think there might be air in the higher components.

Should the hose coming from the radiator on the drivers side be firm at operating temp? I squeeze it after the engines hot and it's as loose as a goose. The radiator is full to the max but I think there might be air in the higher components.

Should be hot and squishy which means there is fluid travelling.

Only time it will be hard and stiff is when the engine is not up to operating temperature and the thermostat has not popped open yet.

Don't tell me to be careful, I know what the hell I'm talking about.

Blazee, relax bro.

He never said you didn't know what you were talking about.

No need to get defensive.

Oh, and Josh Bowerman, I live 3 hours north of you in Sudbury.

Should the hose coming from the radiator on the drivers side be firm at operating temp? I squeeze it after the engines hot and it's as loose as a goose. The radiator is full to the max but I think there might be air in the higher components.

Should be hot and squishy which means there is fluid travelling.

Only time it will be hard and stiff is when the engine is not up to operating temperature and the thermostat has not popped open yet.

Yes and if you squeeze it pretty hard you should be able to feel it circulating.

They both have good points but if you have a minimal amount of mechanical knowledge than you can do it yourself and save money. If you dont know, then ask to watch what the "mechanics" do, so you can have the knowledge later on and you still come out on top.

If you dont know, then ask to watch what the "mechanics" do, so you can have the knowledge later on and you still come out on top.

Good tip. I just want to add even if you do know....always watch them work no matter what it is, they will try to do a better job when they know you are watching and will be less likely to take shortcuts.

Depends on the listing, some are mandatory and some are up to the dealer to decide.

If there is nothing wrong with your truck, don't go looking for something to fix.

Also, grease all 11 grease fittings on your front end.

i am not discrediting your advise, all i am saying is anytime there is a suspension recall "saftey" get it done asap.. that is not looking for something to fix.

right on blazee, good tip!

BlazerLT
I was born in Dowling, grew up in Elliot Lake and moving to Sudbury for work this month. Can't wait to get back up north. And once again you accurately states that I indeed did not question Blazee's knowledge.


Later

Ok, went to drain the radiator and I couldnt find the drain plug. From looking over the top of the radiator (facing the vehicle) I see a small white looking plug on the bottom left side but from under the truck I dont see any where to access it. Is the little white plug the correct plug? If so just unscrew and let it drain?

The drain plug is on the lower passenger side of the radiator. If you're facing the front of the vehicle, then it would be on your 'left' side.

It simply unscrews. Unscrew it until the coolant starts to drain. No need to remove the the valve, just unscrew it enough turns to allow coolant to drain.

It's often called a petcock valve.

ahhh, thanks. About to get all this done now so I can have it done before I leave work. Thanks for all the info guys!

It should turn 1/4 to 1/2 a turn then pull out, not all the way out just enough to let it drain out the little hose. When i did mine it was a little stuck so i turned it a little and wiggled it out, also if you are using the flush and fill kit, snap in the deflector and turn it toward the front of the vehicle this way you can put a pipe or something in front of it and drain the waste into a pan. I don't recommend letting it run on the ground but that is up to you, it is easier.:smile:

I'll stay logged on in case you have any more question, but it is pretty straight forward.

even though it says i'm offline i'm still here.

blazee, thanks for the clarification, as you are right. It only turns about 1/4 of a turn before it pulls out. I was thinking of one of the other vehicles of mine.

blazee, thanks for the clarification, as you are right. It only turns about 1/4 of a turn before it pulls out. I was thinking of one of the other vehicles of mine.


Not a problem. I want to compliment you, I have read a lot of your posts and you seem to really know what you're talking about.

Just remeber to reverse flush.

Going to opposite way of normal flow will often clear a lot more of the obstructions.

Do both ways.

I just wanted to add:

If you are using the Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner that I suggested (I hope you are) you probably have a couple more days before you are ready to drain it, and do your final flush. I wanted to let you know that when you fill the radiator with the 50/50 mix, Chevy recommends you use distilled water, it is only about 50 cents a gallon, and it contains less impurities so it will be better for your system.(It also has a higher boiling point than tap water.)

Well I didi flush it and so far have not noticed any more build up. I will probably re do the flush in another 1000 miles or so just to be safe. My heater now works again. I never mentioned it but the heater would run for a few minutes after heating up and then just start blowing cold air. Well it works fine now as well. I really appreciate all the info/advice you guys have given. And yes, I did get a replacement cap from Stant =)

Smart man, also, don't worry about the other flush, you probably got it all this time, no need for the waste. Any other stuff will pop into the overflow resevoir over time if there is any and you can just simply empty that.

Well I didi flush it and so far have not noticed any more build up. I will probably re do the flush in another 1000 miles or so just to be safe. My heater now works again. I never mentioned it but the heater would run for a few minutes after heating up and then just start blowing cold air. Well it works fine now as well. I really appreciate all the info/advice you guys have given. And yes, I did get a replacement cap from Stant =)

I'm glad to hear that. As BlazerLT said the second flush probably isn't neccessary. If you followed the directions I suggested I doubt if you will ever have anymore problems. Mine was nasty and when I did it, it made the radiator all pretty and shiny inside.

Even though they say the DEXCOOL is good for 5 years or 150,000 miles, you are better off replacing it every two years to prevent anymore problems.

Just curious....

1. One day....did you use the "flush" (20 minutes) or the "cleaner" (6 hours)?
2. Did you have any problems doing it? my drain plug was a pain in the ass
3. Are you glad you did it yourself?

(1) Well I just used the flush. I was going to use the cleaner as well but the water was coming out very clean and I could not see any more build up. So I had planned on using the cleaner when I did my second flush but everyone is saying dont do the second flush so I might just use the cleaner this weekend and do it that way.
(2) The plug was kind of hard to get to but it wasnt a major chore.
(3) Yes, saved myself some money and learned something new. Plan on also greasing the fittings this weekend as well which will be a first but with the picture provided in another thread, seems easy enough.

The cleaner is a super flush, you only have to use one or the other. The flush is more for a "routine cleaning", the Cleaner is for fixing neglected or extremely dirty systems.If the flush cleaned your system good enough there is really no reason to use the Cleaner.

Right now you probably have some air in your system, you might even here water sloshing in your dash (this is air in the heater core) this is normal and you new stant cap will take care of it in no time, but you will need to keep an eye on your coolant and keep it topped off.

Yes greasing the fittings is pretty easy, just fill them until the rubber seal is firm, don't overfill them because you will bust the seal.

ahh, ok. I will keep an eye on the fluid levels. Now just need to save up for new set of wheels and a few other things and I will be set!

As for the dexcool, 2 years is too early.

With a proper rad cap install, dexcool life is greatly increased.

3 or 4 now will be fine.

The new dexcool cannot be compared to the dexcool made in 1996, very different formulations and upgrades.

Yeah you can go 3 or 4 years, but you will have to flush all the junk out again.