I just don't know what the problem is?

My 86 Iroc Camero Z-28 V8, TPI, all stock, is bogging when it warms up.
It jerks when I hit the gas pedal. It doesnt back fire, plus it idles and sounds pretty healthy. I just had over $2,000 of work done to it. They installed a new MAS(mass air flow sensor), EGR valve & solenoid, new fuel filter and fuel pump, alternator, plugs & wires, oxygen sensor, coolant temp sensor, all vacuum hoses, intake manifold gasket, temp sensor, catalytic converter, smog pump, new battery, and these guys said they reset the engine light on the dash, but that still comes on. They set the timing and smog it too. The motor has 75,000 miles and its very very clean under the hood. I cant figure out whats wrong? Ive taken it back to the shop twice! Out of all this shop has done to it and the prices he's charged me I dont know if Im gettin screwed and should I disput it from my credit card company? This was his prices and work done .
Diagnostic-Labor:0.83hrs@$90.00/hr=$75.00
Alternator replacement- Labor1.00@$393.36
Spark Plugs/Wires-Labor:1.50=$274.49
Oxygen Sensor-Labor:0.90=$ Incudes Reseting Engine light
Coolent Temp Sensor- Labor:1.20=$135.64
M.A.F. Sensor- Labor:0.70hrs.=$407.66
Vacuum Hoses Replaced-Labor:1.0=118.70
Egr and Solenoid 2.40hrs: $442.00 included Intake Manf. Gasket
Temp Sensor-0.50hrs:$83.68
Thermostat-0.50hrs:$65.95
Catalytic Converter $240.00
Smog $79.95
My bill came out to be $2000.00. My question is? What is your thoughts on the work done to it. Anyways the car still runs rough. Please give me you Professional Advice.

first question - at any point in time did anyone run the car for codes??????

You really should get some tools and learn as you go. Below is a breakdown on what the parts cost locally and how long it takes to do the work. The hardest job they did was change the EGR valve and thats just because you have to remove the plenum.

Diagnostic-Labor:0.83hrs@$90.00/hr=$75.00
This may be justified unless they just pulled the codes.
Alternator replacement- Labor1.00@$393.36
This is expen$ive...A rebuilt alt costs around $100...so almost $300 labor for a 1 hour job.
Spark Plugs/Wires-Labor:1.50=$274.49
Plug wires cost $50 plugs $15..figure 1-2 hours depending on weather you have to terminate the wires yourself.
Oxygen Sensor-Labor:0.90=$ Incudes Reseting Engine light O2 sensor costs $20..O2 sensor socket $10 20 minute change.."resetting engine light" means they unhooked the battery for 30 seconds and reconnected it...5 minutes total time.
Coolant Temp Sensor- Labor:1.20=$135.64 Sensor costs $7 and takes 10 minutes to change.
M.A.F. Sensor- Labor:0.70hrs.=$407.66 Remanufactured MAF $150 15 minutes to change
Vacuum Hoses Replaced-Labor:1.0=118.70 Hoses..maybe $15 for all of them and it may take you an hour to cut and fit them all...TPI's don't have many
Egr and Solenoid 2.40hrs: $442.00 included Intake Manf. Gasket
Temp Sensor-0.50hrs:$83.68 EGR valve from GM $65 gaskets..$15 2 hours time to do..Temp sensor $7 and 10 minutes to change once the plenum was off for the EGR change.
Thermostat-0.50hrs:$65.95 $7 for a good Robert Shaw high flow and 20 minutes to change.
Catalytic Converter $240.00 Converter $99 for a Catco direct fit bolt on 1 hour to change
Smog $79.95 Smog pump $35 and about an hour to change (not too bad on that price)
My bill came out to be $2000.00. My question is? What is your thoughts on the work done to it. Anyways the car still runs rough. Please give me you Professional Advice.

Well, you were charged "shop rate" for the jobs, that is taken from a book that AMSE puts out. Not too much you can do about that, everyone is going to charge the same shop rate...but what was their hourly charge?
Now, after all of that money was given to them, that car had better run damn good, if it doesn't, keep taking it back and get them to do it right.

To get the code out of your computer do this and them post back your findings...

Take a paperclip and straighten it out, then bend it in a U. Remove the cover from the ALDL...Little cover under the edge of the dash by the driver's right knee. Stick the paperclip in the upper right 2 holes in the connector (pins A&&B). Now, turn the key ON but don't start the car. When you do this you'll hear a lot of clicking in the engine bay and the fan will come on..this is normal.
Now, watch your check engine light. It will begin to flash starting with code 12 (normal code) It will flash in long and shorts like this...Flash.....flash..flash That is 12, first flash is 1 the next is 2 (2 fast flashes). It will flash 12 three times then move on to any stored codes and it will flash them 3 times each..example: flash..flash..flash.....flash..flash..flash..flash .....,flash..flash..flash.....flash..flash..flash. .flash.....,flash..flash..flash.....flash..flash.. flash..flash.....

That would be code 34 3 times. Write down all codes..when it has gone through all of the stored codes it will begin all over by flashing code 12 again.. Turn the key off and remove the paperclip.
Come back and post the codes you got.

lol, ive never thought of actually typing out the flashes before, thats pretty funny lol.

lol, ive never thought of actually typing out the flashes before, thats pretty funny lol.
It may sound funny but, I've found that people who have never seen a code flashed out through the check eng light understand it a whole lot better and have a better idea of what they are looking for.

no no, its cool, probly how ill describe it from now on.

I don't know about the bogging down during warm up, but the jerk when you hit the gas sounds like your rear differential fluid needs changed. Limited slip transmissions do that when the fluid is old. It probably takes 80-90 wieght and make sure to add the additive from GM. Part# 1052358

could be the clutches in the tranny slipping