front axle lockup

Someone help please, I have a 94 gc with the 4.0, all time 4wd, it runs well except after i drive it for a long while, or take it on the highway. Then (after the drivetrain heats up I assume) when i try to turn at low speed its like not wanting to move in the turn and i can hear a noise like rubbing (not metal grinding rubbing) and it acts like it doesnt want to be turning like a big 4wd truck in 4 wheel low. Is this bad cv?

Quadra track transfer case I assume.

Probably the Viscous coupler is locking up on you.

Check the fluid level in the transfer case first. The VC is cooled by the ATF in the transfer case.

the VC transmits more power as it heats up like when there is a difference in speed between the front and rear axles.

It is not unusual in the 93-95 JGC's

JD

thanks, i did check and change transfer case fluid,is the viscous something i can replace?, also do you know if the np231 is a direct switch

If you have the Quad trac the transfer case is a np249. A np 242 is the replacement you want if you are going to change over.

The letters could also be NV as well. similar case but new company name.

The 242 is the Select trac system.

If you do a search on this forum, you will find a lot of talk about this swap. There is addresses for suppliers and every thing.

The VC can be changed without removing the transfer case if you wish. A new VC is anywhere from $400 to $900 depending on where you get one.

I think that there are suppliers mentioned for them too.

JD

thanks for the info, i was meaning as far as direct replacement do i just get the t case and bolt it in, or do i need a bunch of other peripherals?

The VC can be changed without removing the transfer case if you wish. A new VC is anywhere from $400 to $900 depending on where you get one.

I think that there are suppliers mentioned for them too.

JD[/QUOTE]

Do you have any info on changing the vc while in the vehicle? I'm having the same issue. The old driving over railroad tracks feeling on a turn. Mine is a 95 Grand with the v-8.

I made this repair recently, I'll try to talk you through it. I asked for instructions earlier form this group, recieved no responses and had to wing it. It was a very easy repair, about 3-4 hours for a rookie. You pull the tail extension off the transfer case and the VC is pretty much right there. This is from memory so I may miss a detail.

First remove the driveshaft and the transmission crossmember (you can leave it bolted to the transmission), this will allow you to carefully lower the engine / trans assembly so you can access the top of the extension housing. Have someone lower it slowly while you look for any interference that would cause damage to the engine, etc. Block the assembly in this postion so it doesn't drop while you are working.

Next remove the speedometer ouput gear, it slides in to the tail extension housing.

Next remove the tail extension, the trick of this job is the snap ring that holds the extension housing to the bearing. It is accessed thru a rectangular plate on the top of the extension housing. The plate is held on with torx head flat head screws, use a mirror to get at the screws. Using the mirror and a pair of right angle snap ring pliers this ring has to be spread and the extension housing will pull right off.

A pair of flat nosed pliers would be ideal but I don't have and could not find any that were not straight. I used a pair of pliers for the snap rings with the holes in the ends, it took patience and luck. I was going to modify a pair of pliers if I could not get the job done.

You need a second pair of hands to hold the output shaft forward as to not pull it back so far as to have the bearing at the front end of the output shaft fall out, I had a helper hold a large screwdriver against the output shaft while I removed the housing. After the housing is off the the mating speedo gear, output support bearing, oil pump and VC are slid off. There are 2 snap rings, involved here and it pretty straight forward.

You may want to look inside the case at this time for any abnormalities with a mirror and light. Put the parts back on the same way they came off (duh) and seal the housing up with rtv.

As for the snap ring that is accessed thru the top hole, I cut a piece of wood to hold the ring spread while I put the housing back on, when in place I pulled the wood out.

I can email you pictures of the output shaft assembly if you would like let me know at [email protected] .

good luck

rick