electrical/guage problems

I know electrical problems are near impossible to diagnose over the net, but I thought ide post my problem and hope someones gone through something similar??

My 2000 Chev Z71 4X4 327ci, has a problem with the gauges.. First off the bezel is melting after long trips..
here is a pic of my gauges after a 2 1/2 hour trip to the lake.. You can see the deformation, especially around the fuel guage and speedo.. the needle is even running over the plastic now

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/146920gauge2.jpg

I could see it getting worse the longer I drove.. It was slightly melted when I bought the truck a couple months ago..

Also, every once and awhile (especially after driving long periods) the gauges will all of the sudden start to bounce around.. and sometimes they will all just quit.. it'l do this for a minute or so, then they'l go back to normal...

ANYONE have any ideas as to where to start troubleshooting???


Also, I know this belongs in another section, But my 96 GMC 1/2 ton (2 wheel drive) 305 Vortec, has the engine light coming on.. The engine light will continue to blink while the truck is idling, but goes away once I start driving.. Anyone got any ideas before I run out and buy a $175 dollar OBD 2 scanner??? (I need one anyway, got no cash right now)

"QUOTE" Also, I know this belongs in another section, But my 96 GMC 1/2 ton (2 wheel drive) 305 Vortec, has the engine light coming on.. The engine light will continue to blink while the truck is idling, but goes away once I start driving.. Anyone got any ideas before I run out and buy a $175 dollar OBD 2 scanner??? (I need one anyway, got no cash right now




A blinking SES is usally emmissions related. Could be something simple like a gas cap was loose, even if you tighten it the light won't go out untill something like 40 starts. But u say it goes out upon a engine load. that is more misfire related. So I guess u really should pull a code. U dont have to buy a scanner. Just have someone scan it (takes about 2 minites).

I've taken my 01 silverado 4x4 on 18 hour long drives and nothing even remotely close has happened like that, don't know why it would be getting so hot, especially enough to melt!

It sounds like there may be a short in the gauge cluster. I don't know for sure, but you may be able to pull the fuse or disconect the gauge cluster, drive it for a while and see if it gets hot. But then you will not have the gauges so you'll have to guess the speed and fill up the tank before you leave.

Have you done any mods that required you to put a hole in the firewall?

U dont have to buy a scanner. Just have someone scan it (takes about 2 minites).

yeah the only shitty part is, they charge you $70 just to scan it.. Why bother when you can buy your own for $170? I'll just have to wait til i got the $$ to buy a scanner

Anyways, back to the original problem, No, I havent done any mods to the truck at all.. as far as I know, she's bone stock.. the bezel was slightly deformed when I bought the truck and ive never known why, until I took it to the lake (first long trip ive taken with it) and I could see the bezel continue to melt.. I put my hand against the gauge window and it was very very hot..

I also think its related to all the needles bouncing around.. They all went nuts for about 30 seconds, then went back to normal..

My dad said the gauges all quit on him one day.. But while checking all the fuses, he wiggled one of the ignition fuses (drivers side dash) and noticed all the gauges started working or twitching..

As far as checking codes for $70.. Autozone and other car parts stores will check codes for free. If I had gauges melting on me I'd get it to a dealer ASAP!!! I have noticed that it is almost painful to touch certain parts of the radio/temp control unit after operating for a while.. but I've certainly never seen anything melting! Longest I've gone without shutting down is 4.5-5 hours...

defenitely an electrical problem. Sounds like you have either a short to ground, or more likely a loose or bad connection on your cluster. A loose connection could work fine for a little while but as the amps keep flowing the connection will get hotter and hotter, enough to melt the cluster even. Then it could fail. If the connection separates then it wont be melting plastic that you will have to worry about, it will be a fire inside your dash. Until you get the cluster replaced you might want to carry a small fire extinguisher with you.

I would buy a new cluster off of ebay. you can get them from 75-250 bucks depending on what style you decide to get.

Canadian tire is like the Canadian equivalant to your autozone.. They'l only scan it for free if they are fixing it.. But their "mechanics" are a bunch of work experience grade 10 students that should be sweeping floors.. No where near a wrench..

Im gonna pull the cluster out again and double check everything.. it looked fine last time but you cant really get inside these clusters..

btw, Nineball, thats a bad ass silverado you got there

I agree with nineball481, be very careful about this you could be looking at a fire pretty soon