big horsepower?

Just wanted to see if anybody has beefed up a cavalier yet and gotten some real hp out of it. I have 2003 2 door and i'm thinking about either turbo charging it or supercharging it and doing some major internal work to it plus upgrading the brakes and possibly puttings some 18 or 19 inch wheels on it. My cavalier has about 145hp right now, i was just wondering if anybody was up close to 300 or maybe more.

Just wanted to see if anybody has beefed up a cavalier yet and gotten some real hp out of it. I have 2003 2 door and i'm thinking about either turbo charging it or supercharging it and doing some major internal work to it plus upgrading the brakes and possibly puttings some 18 or 19 inch wheels on it. My cavalier has about 145hp right now, i was just wondering if anybody was up close to 300 or maybe more.

Unfortunately most people are going for looks, spending all of the money on bodykits etc. If you put larger brakes (although they will be needed with that kind of grunt) and 18s or 19s you will lose some of the power. Is this all for the street or are you planning to Autocross it? You haven't said what motor ou have but I would say 300 is possible. It may not be 100% reliable though. If you have a 2.2 then you would probably need to port and polish the head, fit harder valve springs and say Stainless steel Valves, Some Lower compression pystons and forged rods possibly oversized just for a little more displacement. I'm not sure how tha crank would hold out but would probably be worth investing in a Nitrided unit. You would need the exhaust manifold and intake. a mediun sized turbo a boost controller and a good Blow Off Valve and not just for the sound.
Check http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ for their Turbo Kit It can run up to 18 pounds of boost with the Garret T28BB upgrade. A large Turbo which will give a fair amount of 'lag'. Although you will need to run this kind of boost or most probably higher for 300hp Or their Kit with the T25BB, a slightly smaller unit that they claim will give 280hp without further improvements so 300hp should be possible with this kit, Usually the T28 is used by Rally teams but they have sofisticated Anti-lag systems that greatly reduce the life of the turbo. These work by controlling the ignition. When the driver eases off the throttle pedal instead of the throttle butterfly closing completely it remains open meaning that air is still entering and exiting the engine and the ignition cut the spark so that the power output is lowered to simulate lower revs, this keeps the Turbo spooled up and then when you hit the throttle pedal again the boost is there waiting for you and then instant power with no lag. What this does though is cause unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust and this results in flames being spouted from the tailpipe with a bang or pop. You would also need some kind of LSD as this much power through the front wheels without one will just mean that you don't go anywhere and just go through tiresa set a week!!! :2cents:

Good Luck though $$$$$$!!!!!!! Would forecast near $10,000 in engine mods when you're done (tax & hidden costs included)

i have a blown Z24. im close to 200 HP.

Unfortunately most people are going for looks, spending all of the money on bodykits etc. If you put larger brakes (although they will be needed with that kind of grunt) and 18s or 19s you will lose some of the power. Is this all for the street or are you planning to Autocross it? You haven't said what motor ou have but I would say 300 is possible. It may not be 100% reliable though. If you have a 2.2 then you would probably need to port and polish the head, fit harder valve springs and say Stainless steel Valves, Some Lower compression pystons and forged rods possibly oversized just for a little more displacement. I'm not sure how tha crank would hold out but would probably be worth investing in a Nitrided unit. You would need the exhaust manifold and intake. a mediun sized turbo a boost controller and a good Blow Off Valve and not just for the sound.
Check http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ for their Turbo Kit It can run up to 18 pounds of boost with the Garret T28BB upgrade. A large Turbo which will give a fair amount of 'lag'. Although you will need to run this kind of boost or most probably higher for 300hp Or their Kit with the T25BB, a slightly smaller unit that they claim will give 280hp without further improvements so 300hp should be possible with this kit, Usually the T28 is used by Rally teams but they have sofisticated Anti-lag systems that greatly reduce the life of the turbo. These work by controlling the ignition. When the driver eases off the throttle pedal instead of the throttle butterfly closing completely it remains open meaning that air is still entering and exiting the engine and the ignition cut the spark so that the power output is lowered to simulate lower revs, this keeps the Turbo spooled up and then when you hit the throttle pedal again the boost is there waiting for you and then instant power with no lag. What this does though is cause unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust and this results in flames being spouted from the tailpipe with a bang or pop. You would also need some kind of LSD as this much power through the front wheels without one will just mean that you don't go anywhere and just go through tiresa set a week!!! :2cents:

Good Luck though $$$$$$!!!!!!! Would forecast near $10,000 in engine mods when you're done (tax & hidden costs included)

Oh my God where do you get all of your information? man im gonna have to start taking notes every time you post lol or start printing pages because this is stuff a lot of people would probably want to klnow... oh and by the way, whats the max power concieveaby done to a 2001 Z24?

a stock Z24 can handle around 250 HP before you need to start replacing things like transmissions, driveshafts, pistons, and all the other things that go along with big power. As far as how many HP you can get, well that depends on how deep your wallet goes. Speed cost money and thats the bottom line. With enough money im sure you can make your Z24 have 1,000 HP.

Oh my God where do you get all of your information? man im gonna have to start taking notes every time you post lol or start printing pages because this is stuff a lot of people would probably want to klnow... oh and by the way, whats the max power concieveaby done to a 2001 Z24?

I don't really realise what I know until I get started on something. Concieveably you could run over 1000hp out of a 2.4litre engine but for the kind of money that would cost you may as well put your name down for a Lamborghini Gallardo. You see most people want 300hp from 'bolt-on' parts. If you really want High Outputs then you have to go to specialists in order to squezze every last hp out of a motor. If you wanted to see 1000 + hp out of a 2.4 four cylinder it wouln't really be anythin but the block and head casings that would even resmble the original. You would probably have to bore it out and then put a treated sleeve in there to keep you pystons from coming through the block you would have to search high and low for someone to build you a crank to handle it and then you need to consider, clutch, trans and driveshafts. It would be possible but not worth the bother. Not unless you had shares in a transmission company!! Some drag racers can run 1000+hp out of 1.8 Honda units. Nobody say anything about V-Tec. It makes me laugh when Honda drinving dipshits put graphics on the side Saying V-Tec Powered! That's like saying 'My car makes good power but I have a specail system that allows my to save gas when I drive to work at McDonalds' As after-all this is all it does, along with any variable valve lift or timing system. It allows for good power numbers while maintaining good economy!! That's it! VVTi (Toyota) Valvetronic (BMW) etc etc

a stock Z24 can handle around 250 HP before you need to start replacing things like transmissions, driveshafts, pistons, and all the other things that go along with big power. As far as how many HP you can get, well that depends on how deep your wallet goes. Speed cost money and thats the bottom line. With enough money im sure you can make your Z24 have 1,000 HP.

You must have posted that while i was typing as the hotmail flashed up.

Also about the 250hp, it depens on how you drive it!! I'm not talking about Driving miss daiy as opposed to like you stole it but you skill level with feeding power and clutch control!!!

Finnese is the name of the game not just Fast and Furious style rinsing the car for all it's worth!! I f**king hate thoise stupid movies! I'm all for car movies but not when it may as well have been written by the top columnists at cosmopolitan, it's complete bollox!!!!

It makes me laugh when Honda drinving dipshits put graphics on the side Saying V-Tec Powered! That's like saying 'My car makes good power but I have a specail system that allows my to save gas when I drive to work at McDonalds'

OMG... thats one of the best things i've heard in a while

I aim to amuse! you put my typo's in your sig dude. If I weren't do tired I'd be laughing! Thanks for that complement though!

Cool thanks... my wallet aint deep enough to make a 1000 hp and if i DID want that much id go buy something like a viper or a corvette... :) but thanks for the info... :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

Unfortunately most people are going for looks, spending all of the money on bodykits etc. If you put larger brakes (although they will be needed with that kind of grunt) and 18s or 19s you will lose some of the power. Is this all for the street or are you planning to Autocross it? You haven't said what motor ou have but I would say 300 is possible. It may not be 100% reliable though. If you have a 2.2 then you would probably need to port and polish the head, fit harder valve springs and say Stainless steel Valves, Some Lower compression pystons and forged rods possibly oversized just for a little more displacement. I'm not sure how tha crank would hold out but would probably be worth investing in a Nitrided unit. You would need the exhaust manifold and intake. a mediun sized turbo a boost controller and a good Blow Off Valve and not just for the sound.
Check http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ for their Turbo Kit It can run up to 18 pounds of boost with the Garret T28BB upgrade. A large Turbo which will give a fair amount of 'lag'. Although you will need to run this kind of boost or most probably higher for 300hp Or their Kit with the T25BB, a slightly smaller unit that they claim will give 280hp without further improvements so 300hp should be possible with this kit, Usually the T28 is used by Rally teams but they have sofisticated Anti-lag systems that greatly reduce the life of the turbo. These work by controlling the ignition. When the driver eases off the throttle pedal instead of the throttle butterfly closing completely it remains open meaning that air is still entering and exiting the engine and the ignition cut the spark so that the power output is lowered to simulate lower revs, this keeps the Turbo spooled up and then when you hit the throttle pedal again the boost is there waiting for you and then instant power with no lag. What this does though is cause unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust and this results in flames being spouted from the tailpipe with a bang or pop. You would also need some kind of LSD as this much power through the front wheels without one will just mean that you don't go anywhere and just go through tiresa set a week!!! :2cents:

Good Luck though $$$$$$!!!!!!! Would forecast near $10,000 in engine mods when you're done (tax & hidden costs included)Thanks for the info. The 18's or 19's will be part of the look so I guess I'm going to have to sacrafice some speed unless they make some really lightweight rim in those sizes. My cavy is a 2003 with a 2.2 eco, probably going to be all for the streets. So you think I should go with a turbo instead of a supercharger? I've been doing some homework and it seems the turbo kits are going for around $4k and the chargers around $5.4K. What do you think about upgrading the cams? Right now I'm just getting some ideas of where to start, I'm think of going with the turbo or charger first and leaving it set at between 6-8psi until I beef up the internal parts, which I think is safe for the factory parts on my engine. thanks again.

well if your going for big HP numbers id say go with a turbo. Just alot easier to fine tune and get more boost out of.

What do you think about upgrading the cams?

Cams Would mainly benefit a car that it tuned for NA performane. They rarely are worth their money on a Turbo application unless it is a cam that is profiled for Turbo specific applications which are rare to say the least

What kind of wear and tear would a turbo do to an engine not designed to handle one, such as a cavi?

What kind of wear and tear would a turbo do to an engine not designed to handle one, such as a cavi?

It's not so much wear as just damage. You are fine on a low pressure system (around 6 psi) but you wont want it to stay there for too long! Detonation is a pretty big on where the mixture leans out and this car damage just about everything in the combustion chamber. Weaks ring can be damaged causing blow-by and if the oil isn't changed regularly enough then catastropic turbo failure resulting in peaices of compressor turbing and turbo casing entering the combustion chamber. This usally is a junk the whole engine kind of deal! But this is only if you run the boost too high! There isn't a line to say,' You can't run above ***PSI with whatever motor' as it depends on mileage, they way the car has been driven etc! If I was going to boost a motor over 5 years old even low miler I'd do all the pistons rods and rings. Also you could snap a weak crank or lose the big end from a rod! Not good either way!!

the way that sounded superchargind sounds safer

You have almost the same problems with a supercharger under too much boost and you have to check the pulley for any play once in a while to make sure the bearings are ok so it doesn't throw styff into your motor also. It's just something you have to be careful with you can't just glue on a turbo and expect to make 300 horses!

why spent all that money on a cavalier? not worth it. i would say sell the cav. get something else that is more boost friendly. a friend of mine has an '04 cavalier, he has spent some money trying to make it go fast. his best option and the cheapest is to go NOS. just this past week he try to get a z28 and trade in his cavalier which the dealer only offer him 6000. damn only $$$6000.00 for an 2004 cavalier. so in my opinion and experience,save yalls money and get something else. not saying that the cavalier is a bad car but once anybody spents $3000 on a turbo system and gets use to the HP, you always want more and to make more power out of a cavalier its gonna cost alot more $$$$. by than you would almost be done paying for an almost brand new car that makes decent power and esier/cheaper to upgrade

why spent all that money on a cavalier? not worth it. i would say sell the cav. get something else that is more boost friendly. a friend of mine has an '04 cavalier, he has spent some money trying to make it go fast. his best option and the cheapest is to go NOS. just this past week he try to get a z28 and trade in his cavalier which the dealer only offer him 6000. damn only $$$6000.00 for an 2004 cavalier. so in my opinion and experience,save yalls money and get something else. not saying that the cavalier is a bad car but once anybody spents $3000 on a turbo system and gets use to the HP, you always want more and to make more power out of a cavalier its gonna cost alot more $$$$. by than you would almost be done paying for an almost brand new car that makes decent power and esier/cheaper to upgrade

Would you sell you ZEE? Probably not. We love Cavaliers, If you don't that's ok you don't have to drive one! The whole point is to be original. If you go to a show you see whit loads of Civics and the same could be said for them. It's not a hobby it's an obsession!!

oh man who ever says cavaliers dont respond well to boost or mods dont know much about cavys and should just stop talking. My car used to runa 16.1@82MPH 1320, after adding ONLY 4.5 PSI of boost, it now runs a 14.7@91MPH. Do you know of any other car that lose 1.4 seconds off its 1320 with so little PSI? MY 60s went from a 2.3 to a 2.0. But then again this all depends on what engine you have. The baseline 2.2L OHV motor sucks balls when it comes to mods or going fast, that engine i would def say dont mod. But the 2.4L and the ecotec respond very well to mods and boost. Also the reason they offered him so little for the car is because it is the end of the line for the cavalier. They are tring to get rid of them to make room for the Cobalt, the cavaliers replacement. So a cavalier that 3 years ago that would have been sold for 18,000 from the dealer, is now being sold for 8,000. Its a really good time to buy a new cavalier right now.

[QUOTE=-Its a really good time to buy a new cavalier right now.[/QUOTE]

Tue, so long as you don't plan to sell it for a while because the depreciation will suck still, Could be worse depending on the impact the Cobalt has. I forsee A shit load cruising around!!! More than Cavs. Also Why they aren't going to use the 2 liter Ecotec Turbo that they put in the Saab! It's 220 hp. That would be better and more tunable then the S/charged version!

Would you sell you ZEE? Probably not. We love Cavaliers, If you don't that's ok you don't have to drive one! The whole point is to be original. If you go to a show you see whit loads of Civics and the same could be said for them. It's not a hobby it's an obsession!!


No i wouldnt sell my Z but also dont compare a ZTT to a cav. what im trying to say (no disrespect to no one) is that i will be harder to make serious power out of a cav. and i dont think you can also compare civics to cav. the performance market is there for civics and more but not as much for cavs. which it suck for all cav fans. it would be diffrent if you could do an engine swap like civic but thats not the case. its just to hard and expensive.

but if you must have a cav. do alot of research. beef up your internals and play with boost. you may still not be as fast but you will be faster than the average cav.

No i wouldnt sell my Z but also dont compare a ZTT to a cav. what im trying to say (no disrespect to no one) is that i will be harder to make serious power out of a cav. and i dont think you can also compare civics to cav. the performance market is there for civics and more but not as much for cavs. which it suck for all cav fans. it would be diffrent if you could do an engine swap like civic but thats not the case. its just to hard and expensive.

but if you must have a cav. do alot of research. beef up your internals and play with boost. you may still not be as fast but you will be faster than the average cav.

I wasn't comparing any vehicles to any other just using them to make my point that we love our cars and don't want to mod anything else!

JCCR check this http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/526752/19

Raven's 3800 S/C is one of my favs...

that guys pretty cool i had the pleasure of talking bout the car with him at the show.. and yeah thats a beast of an engine fore a cav

thats a nice cav. with plenty of hp. check this web go to 300zx video

http://www.chargen.net/videos.htm

whats a 300zx got to do with cavaliers?

Seems like a turbo/supercharger is more trouble than it's worth. I was planning on saving up for a supercharger/turbocharger and not doing any other mods, but now it seems like doing the smaller things like bolt-ons and engine mounts and wires and such are a better, safer option, even though gains won't be as big.

Of course my current plans aren't to do too much... I'm gonna stick with this car for 2 more years or so, i just wanna make it purty (ignition wires/drilled slotted rotors/painted calipers) and a little faster (already did the intake, will do motor mounts/exhaust). But even with all this AND a turbo, it doesn't seem like I would get out of the low 15's.


Going to save about 10 grand over the next year and a half or so and buy a 03/04 Stang GT outright, seems like a better option than turbo'ing this sucker. :-)

Of course my current plans aren't to do too much... I'm gonna stick with this car for 2 more years or so, i just wanna make it purty (ignition wires/drilled slotted rotors/painted calipers) and a little faster (already did the intake, will do motor mounts/exhaust). But even with all this AND a turbo, it doesn't seem like I would get out of the low 15's.


Going to save about 10 grand over the next year and a half or so and buy a 03/04 Stang GT outright, seems like a better option than turbo'ing this sucker. :-)


That's Heresy!!! Why couldn't you have said a Cobalt SS SC? Then you wouldn't have upset me!! Mustang?!?!?! Not until they finally put independent rear suspension on them without that GAY live rear axle which = plenty of axle hop and no traction and not as good cornering as it could be!!! I'm gonna NA tune my little charmer and make it piss Mustang GT owners off when I wont dissapear from their rear view mirror! That is of course IF they are lucky enough to be in front of me!!!

That's Heresy!!! Why couldn't you have said a Cobalt SS SC? Then you wouldn't have upset me!! Mustang?!?!?! Not until they finally put independent rear suspension on them without that GAY live rear axle which = plenty of axle hop and no traction and not as good cornering as it could be!!! I'm gonna NA tune my little charmer and make it piss Mustang GT owners off when I wont dissapear from their rear view mirror! That is of course IF they are lucky enough to be in front of me!!!

Why does it matter what minor problems it has with the axle... you just said it'll still probably beat you. And I could spend the same amount as a turbo or sc for the cavy as the mustang, and see much, much bigger gains. I'm not hating on cavi's at all... I mean I own one, but I'm realistic. A cavalier is not a race car.

Why does it matter what minor problems it has with the axle... you just said it'll still probably beat you. And I could spend the same amount as a turbo or sc for the cavy as the mustang, and see much, much bigger gains. I'm not hating on cavi's at all... I mean I own one, but I'm realistic. A cavalier is not a race car.

Mine will be, watch this space. I never said it would beat me, matbe at the moment until it came to a bend! the solid rear axle went out with the solid tire!

Mine will be, watch this space. I never said it would beat me, matbe at the moment until it came to a bend! the solid rear axle went out with the solid tire!

Ok, well if/when it is, then I will expect you to talk smack. But until then...

man... u are so getting lippy with the wrong guy....

Why does it matter what minor problems it has with the axle... you just said it'll still probably beat you. And I could spend the same amount as a turbo or sc for the cavy as the mustang, and see much, much bigger gains. I'm not hating on cavi's at all... I mean I own one, but I'm realistic. A cavalier is not a race car.
THE WHOLE POINT IS,THAT PEOPLE EXPECT A DAMN V8 MUSTANG TO BE FAST,BUT NOT TO MANY PEOPLE DRIVING THOSE MUSTANGS EXPECT TO SEE ME IN A (4CYL) Z24 PUSHING THEM UP THE ROAD WHEN THEY LOOK IN THER REARVEIW!!!!

u dont push on a V8 mustang GT with a 15.3. I barely keep even with them at a 14.7.

thats 15.3 in the 1/4, and yeah,yur right i dont beat them in the 1/4,but give me an open interstate and ill push on a stock gt all day...also,i was just making a point that a z24 could make a nice sleeper,plus on yur car you could easaly push up the boost on yur s.c. and hang w/gt's in the 1/4..... and another thing,that 15.3 was last year before my larger t.b.,and fuel mods ;plus ive been building a fresh 2.4 for the last 4-5months (bored,p&p head,balanced rotating assembly,etc.) so im sure ill have quicker e.t.'s this summer. im hoping to get into low-mid 14's n/a.but who knows?!

thats 15.3 in the 1/4, and yeah,yur right i dont beat them in the 1/4,but give me an open interstate and ill push on a stock gt all day...also,i was just making a point that a z24 could make a nice sleeper,plus on yur car you could easaly push up the boost on yur s.c. and hang w/gt's in the 1/4..... and another thing,that 15.3 was last year before my larger t.b.,and fuel mods ;plus ive been building a fresh 2.4 for the last 4-5months (bored,p&p head,balanced rotating assembly,etc.) so im sure ill have quicker e.t.'s this summer. im hoping to get into low-mid 14's n/a.but who knows?!


Have you upped the redline. Or you with stock valve springs?

havent started valvetrain yet,head is still at machine shop

havent started valvetrain yet,head is still at machine shop

ok would be good to run about an 8000 rpm redline and scare people!

8000 is pretty high for the 2.4. from the factory,these engines like to make most of there torque at low-mid rpm's(3000-5000). but yeah that might scare a few people!!!!!

8000 is pretty high for the 2.4. from the factory,these engines like to make most of there torque at low-mid rpm's(3000-5000). but yeah that might scare a few people!!!!!

If you lower the reciprocating mass and balance it all and then put in harder valve springs and s/stell valves with uprated seals/guides you can up your redlime and you torque curve will be greatly altered from that of a stock motor especially if you up the compression. It wont feel like the same motor and you'll want the higher rpm for the track as you'll need to shift probably one less time and will knock you time down loads!
if you do all that I'd expect low 13 if not high 12s! It is possible with the right mods mixed in whoever plans to doubt me!!

haha,yeah,and how would that make these mustang drivers feel!!,haha

haha,yeah,and how would that make these mustang drivers feel!!,haha

Would be funny to give one a ride and have them waiting for you to shift when the engine is wailing!!!

that would be pretty awesome;a 13 second,daily driven 2.4 cavalier.

that would be pretty awesome;a 13 second,daily driven 2.4 cavalier.
y'huh!

i have a couple questions:

1. where can u get stiffer, after market valve springs.

2. Wouldnt you need to get a stronger crank if you were pushing 8000 Rpm?

3. wouldnt you also need stronger connecting rods with that?

4. you would also need an aftermarket tach, and i havent found any that are reliable yet...

5. i think im done now...

i have a couple questions:

1. where can u get stiffer, after market valve springs.

2. Wouldnt you need to get a stronger crank if you were pushing 8000 Rpm?

3. wouldnt you also need stronger connecting rods with that?

4. you would also need an aftermarket tach, and i havent found any that are reliable yet...

5. i think im done now...
im not sure yet where im gonna get any of my valvetrain(valves,cams,etc),i havent gotten that far on the project yet. and yes im using an after market crank,rods,pistons,rings,oil pump....pretty much everything on the bottomend is aftermarket except the balanceshafts. as for the tach,im not one who likes a huge 2foot monster tach on my dash,so i think ill stick w/the factory one

im not sure yet where im gonna get any of my valvetrain(valves,cams,etc),i havent gotten that far on the project yet. and yes im using an after market crank,rods,pistons,rings,oil pump....pretty much everything on the bottomend is aftermarket except the balanceshafts. as for the tach,im not one who likes a huge 2foot monster tach on my dash,so i think ill stick w/the factory one


Ok www.rsmracing.com do cams and s/steel valves and uprated springs but there are other. Eagle have their ESP con rods that weigh 530 grams ea H section stock stroke about $330 / 4- www.nopionline.com. s/steel valves, stock size or 1mm over $200 / 16 - http://www.carcustoms.net/product_info.php?cPath=265_22_32_593&products_id=117 they also do RCE injectors up to 550cc!!!!! Olds Calais and Achieva W-41 cams had 410 lift both intake and exhaust an can be use but need lots of work to, work usually the heads fromthe same motor. 345/345 lift for our 2.4s and the 2.3 from 95 had 375/375 so will work well. Also GM will sell you some 'blanks' a cam with the profiles to be ground to your spec and all you have to do is find a shop that can machine them for you. Some of the later w-41 Achievas and Calais made 190hp stock! The best combination is said to be the 2.4 block which is stronger with the 2.3 head which flows better! Some people say for serious tuning to ditch the balance shafts. Avoid the 2.3 SOHC though! But it's all for you to decide on your own aplication. I personally plan to find a 2.3 and grab myself the head and then get the 2.4 block and build, upping the compression and probably staying with the 375 cam. I was going to go N/A all out but don't want the torque steer it will bring and then will have to fit and LSD of sorts! 180-190 will be enough for me don't really want to pass 200.

Ok www.rsmracing.com do cams and s/steel valves and uprated springs but there are other. Eagle have their ESP con rods that weigh 530 grams ea H section stock stroke about $330 / 4- www.nopionline.com. s/steel valves, stock size or 1mm over $200 / 16 - http://www.carcustoms.net/product_info.php?cPath=265_22_32_593&products_id=117 they also do RCE injectors up to 550cc!!!!! Olds Calais and Achieva W-41 cams had 410 lift both intake and exhaust an can be use but need lots of work to, work usually the heads fromthe same motor. 345/345 lift for our 2.4s and the 2.3 from 95 had 375/375 so will work well. Also GM will sell you some 'blanks' a cam with the profiles to be ground to your spec and all you have to do is find a shop that can machine them for you. Some of the later w-41 Achievas and Calais made 190hp stock! The best combination is said to be the 2.4 block which is stronger with the 2.3 head which flows better! Some people say for serious tuning to ditch the balance shafts. Avoid the 2.3 SOHC though! But it's all for you to decide on your own aplication. I personally plan to find a 2.3 and grab myself the head and then get the 2.4 block and build, upping the compression and probably staying with the 375 cam. I was going to go N/A all out but don't want the torque steer it will bring and then will have to fit and LSD of sorts! 180-190 will be enough for me don't really want to pass 200.
yeah,im using eagle rods. and i have a 2.3h.o. engine (not running) out of a 94 grand am gt,that i am already using the t.b.,injectors,and crank pulley from on the motor i have in my car now. i was thinking of using that head but my friend at the machine shop said he could get my 2.4 head to work for what i am using the motor for,so he's got it now machining it.i could of just rebuilt the 2.3,but i wanted to build a 2.5L (after boring). no one here where i live has a fast cavi w/a 2.4. although a couple people have 2.3 h.o.'s dropped in.... thanks for the info on the valves&springs.

i still say id love to have that 9 second cav

yeah,im using eagle rods. and i have a 2.3h.o. engine (not running) out of a 94 grand am gt,that i am already using the t.b.,injectors,and crank pulley from on the motor i have in my car now. i was thinking of using that head but my friend at the machine shop said he could get my 2.4 head to work for what i am using the motor for,so he's got it now machining it.i could of just rebuilt the 2.3,but i wanted to build a 2.5L (after boring). no one here where i live has a fast cavi w/a 2.4. although a couple people have 2.3 h.o.'s dropped in.... thanks for the info on the valves&springs.

I've looked in to ot and found that most performance cams for the 2.4 have 375 lift on all but the crazy cams that will idle abd which is the same as the 2.3 OE cams. The main place with the best price for perf cams was www.jbodyperformance.com which is a canadian company. I think the duration was like 220 which i would say has to be very close if not the same as the 2.3 oe units so they may be your best bet!!!

thanx,i appreciate the help,ill look into that.ive been thinkin about what cams to use,id like a good set of performance cams,with more lift/duration,but not sure about what the idle would be like. a little lumpy (lopey) idle wouldnt be bad,but i really dont want it to sound like its missing at idle,since ill be driving the car pretty much daily.

thanx,i appreciate the help,ill look into that.ive been thinkin about what cams to use,id like a good set of performance cams,with more lift/duration,but not sure about what the idle would be like. a little lumpy (lopey) idle wouldnt be bad,but i really dont want it to sound like its missing at idle,since ill be driving the car pretty much daily.

Yeh it seems lie the 2.3 cams are a good way to go! I woujldn't be surprised if some perf cams copied the lobe profiles for their cams!

yeah, i thought that too,but i dont want to use an actual 2.3 set,cause of the power steering pump. but like you said,maybe ill find an aftermarket set w/those specs.