need some help

Alright, so i want a turbocharger, just like anyone else who doesnt have one (mostly). except i keep spending all my money on gas and stupid shit now that i finally got another 240. My original plan was to save up $1900 and buy the stage 1 kit off of boostdesigns.com, thats not gonna happen, so i figure if i spend my money peicing one together, i will have no money to spend because i will be spending it on parts and having something to show for my hard earned cash. Now what i need help with is will this setup work?...
1.)T3 .48 AR Turbine .60 AR Compressor Housing 60 Trim 2 (does this turbocharger have an internal wastegate?)
2.)Boost designs turbo exhaust manifold & downpipe (hopefully their downpipe hooks up to the stock exhaust so i can put it on sooner rather than having to buy their exhaust too. (i emailed them today hopefully they get back soon) )
3.)25MM Recirculating BOV ( where do i recirculate this back too?, im assuming the intake but not sure)
4.)oil feed/return lines w/weld on oil pan bunge
5.) custom routing from the compressor to the intake with their maf sensor adaptor

am i missing something to JUST put the turbo on and make it work?
Yes i know i dont have an intercooler just yet, that will be later.
The only non bolt on thing that i see is their weld on oil pan bunge for the oil lines. should i be expecting having to tune anything at all, running whatever the turbo puts out stock?

thanks

-tim

2) don't leave your stock exhaust on, get a new one. the downpipe is probably 3" and your stock exhaust isn't
3) back to the exhaust

this is just a guess but you'll get more opinions from jspec, nissanfanatic and tat

DUDE!!!!!
ECU? stand alone, how r u going to control the fuel with out it? don't get a piggy back unit , most of them control 50% mixture (+,- 50% not 100% like a stand alone) AND THTATS WHEN $ will come to play a big factor. my ECU, $1015 (HKS f-con)

2nd FUEL??? walbrp 225 is good, get the SR injectors (375 i think ) may pleople get rid of them to get bigger ones.

3rd get a bigger gasket (2 lower the compresion)

ur on the right track dough!

u need a pully mecanizm to alow the supercharger to "not spin" when ur on nutral or idal.

What supercharger?

What supercharger?
Yeah, I'm confused...weren't we just talking about a turbocharger here?!? :)

yeah, awd you must be on liquid meth..

you won't need a new ecu but you'll need the fuel remapped and the safc is a good idea. don't go bare minimum cause that won't last you very long

turns out that the turbo is not wastgated, awd = smokin crack i guess, because there is no way you can get turbo and super charger mixed up... anyway, boostdesigns didnt really answer my question to if the downpipe would hook up to the stock exhaust or not, they didnt really do a good job of answering any of my questions infact, but oh well. i understand you shouldnt do the bare minimum, but i would like to just get everything installed, make it work properly, then tune it. How do you get your fuel remapped?

Get an aftermarket exhaust, don't keep your stock one.

turns out that the turbo is not wastgated, awd = smokin crack i guess, because there is no way you can get turbo and super charger mixed up...

OK OK ... TURBO charger.....i think i got everyone confused...DAMN THE CRACK!!!!!


LOL

anyways did u read the rest of what i said????

yea man i read the rest of what you said, but ive never heard of having a mechanism to stop the spin at idle.....
logik, i know i know, i will get an aftermarket one (WAIT I FORGOT I HAVE A MONEY TREE OUTSIDE DUHHHH!!!11!!) o wait it got cut down, never mind, that sucks. yea i plan on it i just HAVE to have a car to get to work, thats all, its only about 2 miles but its winter, im not walking, and cannot get a ride everyother day... so the only other thing i can think of would be not to beat on it when its installed, plus i dont think it will hurt it that much driving it 4 miles everyother day with the stock exhaust. What does getting your fuel remapped mean, does it mean, letting your ecu know more air than normal will be flowing, so you tell it to poor more fuel in?? :sigh:

yeah, reprogramming your ecu so that it makes the engine work with the new parts. and for your exhaust, if you want to use the stock exhaust then you're gnona have to use a much smaller downpipe, exhaust manifold and the outlets on the turbo will have to be smaller.. and then when you feel the time is right to get a performance exhaust you can sell everything you have and buy new manifold, turbo and downpipe. so basically you're gonna have to buy a real small turbo, exhaust manifold and downpipe to have your stock exhaust work properly. oh but wait thats the DUMBEST THING I'VE EVER CONSIDERED!! the downpipe you want to buy WILL NOT FIT! i can tell you this without even looking at it or knowing anything about it. a downpipe in a turbo kit will be MINIMUM 2.5" and your stock exhaust will be either 2" or 2 1/4". you can't do that. so either get the whole thing done from the exhaust manifold and back or don't do it at all. simple as that

well....what year 240sx is it? maybe buy new exhaust first.

if ANYTHING, i would buy exhaust first. get a 3" cause you can use that size for N/A or turbo.. and for a ka-t a 3" is fine

If you only use it 4 miles a day, why do u need a turbo? If you have no money, don't be in a rush to get a turbo.

See below for what year it is ('92)

i only NEED to drive 4 miles a day.... of course i would drive it more if every thing was right on the car.

I didn't think the stock exhaust would fit, but hey it was worth a shot, i guess i could run an open down pipe AHHHAHA, nah i guess ill just have to save up for an extra month or so and get a good catback exhaust.

well i might be ordering the turbo tommorow to start peiceing the turbo together.

i do have another question though about the oil pan bunge, do you have to drill a hole in the oil pan and weld it on? thats what im assuming, shouldnt be too difficult, thanks for all of your help.

also, noone answered me about the recurcuilating BOV question: where does it recurcuilate to?

back to the air box, or intake pipe im assuming

DUDE!!!!!
ECU? stand alone, how r u going to control the fuel with out it? don't get a piggy back unit , most of them control 50% mixture (+,- 50% not 100% like a stand alone) AND THTATS WHEN $ will come to play a big factor. my ECU, $1015 (HKS f-con)

False. He doesn't have a couple grand to dump into engine management and tuning. Piggybacks work just fine. He's only going to be making aobut 200whp which only really requires about 5-10% more fuel than the stockers can offer. Most piggybacks can support technically 540cc injectors, but people run 550cc on SAFCs. Get a FMU temporarily for the fuel control. The T3 at about 5-6psi would probably actually be safe on the factory fuel system, but don't go there. Get a Walbro, 300zx TT fuel filter, and a 6:1 or 8:1 FMU. Yea everyone says "Don't get one. It'll blow your engine!" but I use one and haven't hear too many complaints from people who know what they're doing. When you do get a SAFC, get a wideband as well.

The BOV recirculates to the intake between the compressor inlet and the MAFS. This is unless you're doing a blow through setup. Get the recirculation inlet as close to the compressor inlet as possible and angle it toward the compressor.

My oil line kit required that you drill a hole in the pan, but mine was flanged. I used a gaskek, spray sealant, and a couple bolts and lock washers to hold it on. No leaks.

You could run the factory exhaust for a while. Its just a bottleneck. You could be super cool like me and run open downpipe for a couple weeks and at least get a straight pipe made to the back. You'll be suprised how quiet a turbocharged car is. No the BD downpipe does not connect to the factory exhaust.

http://ka-t.org/ipw-web/bulletin/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1500 (this is why)

Your stock headgasket will be fine. People run 15psi on stock everything.

Compression test the engine before you buy anything. Don't wind up with a complete kit but a shitty engine.

Timing.... Probably the second most common KA-Boom maker. Go http://ka-t.org/tech/ (here) and set it for about 18*BTDC when you get the kit on your car.

Is your clutch old? If it is, you'll hate it when you only get like 40-50hp to the ground and the rest goes to melting metal and creating heat. An that nasty smell.... If it has some miles on it, you may wanna consider upgrading it. At least get a new stocker.

Get a nice cone filter too.

Have a couple hundred on hand to run to the hardware for fittings, hoses, bolts, tape, ect.

Do a complete tune-up before you turbo. Include NGK plugs, good oil, and the rest of that stuff. Clean everything as well. Throw an aftermarket coil in the mix. Your stocker will give out soon after the turbo. Gap the plugs down to about .035" when you put them in too. Pick up exhaust manifold gaskets, a couple exhaust gaskets(the ones with two small holes on each side of the big hole), some RTV sealant, a case of oil, and an oil filter.

Get a boost gauge too. You definately need a boost gauge.

Have a trusted friend on hand to take you to the hardware a couple times a day.

Set aside about five days to do everything. Three days to install. Two days to nitpick and tune everything.

Thats all I can think of for now. I'll think of more later.

damn man, that clears up a shit load of stuff, thanks

whats the difference between 6:1 and an 8:1 fmu? im still not sure how to set the timing to 18, is it a must to do?

lol good thread...i was just going to ask what exactly the fmu means my self. Isn't there a 12:1 also. Looks like me and you are in the same boat tims_240 as i am too learning this shit as much as possible before i start buying.

Another question i have. I have a extra ka24de head sitting in my garage...so i thought i might as well do some head work and replace old shit with some aftermarket. Is there anything special i should know about valves/ springs or what not?? Whats good and whats not as far as strenght wise. I dont care if my engine is overly built while im only pushing 6-7 psi....i just dont wanna blow out!!! Im more of a defensive person lol. Dont like to just go balls out right away. Lastly, pistons, lower compression? or should i keep stock ratio? Sorry for some what of a thread steal...but it goes with the thread. Thanx for the info fanatic, im sure ill have some more Q's in the future.

By the way tims_240 check out that ka-t.org forum...its very very very very helpful.

THREAD JACKERRRRRRRRR OMGOGMOMGOGMGMOGMGG











j/p.

8:1=+8psi of fuel pressure for every +1 boost

So if you run 5psi, you add 40psi of fuel pressure.

Weakest part of the KA is the pistons. They are good to about 375-400whp in good condition and with very good tuning. With a pistons swap and shotpeened rods, you could lay down serious power. A lower compression ratio will allow you to run more boost, but out of boost drivability will go down. I would go with 9:1 CR pistons. Remember, 16psi on stock pistons. The stock is 9.5:1. Stock valvetrain is fine unless you want to spin +7500rpm.

Timing, like I said, is probably the second most common reason for people blowing thier engines. Make sure the engine is at oprerating temp(take it for a little drive). Your idle RPM MUST be at 700rpm for the ECU to correctly set the base timing. If not, you could be advancing or retarding way too far. I had pretty bad hesitation issues because of this.