CV Boot

O supreme wrencheads,

I recently bought a 97 Honda Passport 4WD, 5 spd, 100K mi, with cracked front outer CV boots. The vehicle runs fine with no clicking, popping, or grinding sounds coming from the CV.

Given that I have no idea how long the boots have been cracked, would it be best if I replace the axle shafts or just the boots using the procedure described elsewhere in the forum?

If I need to go the axle shaft replacement route, any idea how much of a PIA they would be to remove and install. I've noticed that Autozone carries reman'd axle shafts for about $95 a piece. Anybody have any opinions on them?

TIA...

You wont hear anything until you try to run it in 4WD. If they have been open for very long at all they will need to be replaced. I am not sure about doing the work though, I have never done it myself.

Is is shift-on-the-fly or a manual shift transfer case? If its manual, the axle shafts do not turn if its not in 4wd. So, if the 4wd wasn't used much by the PO then theres a good chance the joints are just fine. As far as replacing the boots or the whole axle, its just as much work either way. If you're mechanically inclined, you should be able to do the job at home with the proper tools. You'll have to seperate both upper and lower ball joints to get enough clearance to remove the axle shafts and a conventional "pickle fork" won't work. Here's a nice page that explains the procedure: http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots/?

It's a SOTF. The 4WD currently engages properly. Thanks for the quick replies...

What do you guys think about these two piece boots. They can be installed without removing everything. I have never heard of anyone using them but I am curious if they will hold as well as the others. I also know that if your boot is already gone then you should do the whole remove, clean, and grease procedure beacuse of contaminates that might have gotten in there.

Correction: Sorry not two piece, but split boot.

I don't like the split boots. I like to disassemble and sanitize the bearings, race and cages and then thoroughly repack. Hard to do a god job on that with the joint in the car.

There are two kinds of split boots that I know of -- one that has to be glued shut and one that has screws and nuts to hold it closed. I have used both and been disappointed in both.

On the ones that have to be glued, it's practically impossible to repack the bearing and slide the boot back on without getting some grease in the groove where the adhesive goes. It you don't get a perfect seal, the boot will split apart again soon.

On the ones that are held together with screws, the screws pulled through the rubber 'ears' and the boot split again.

Another alternative to consider if you are pretty sure there is no damage to the joints is to buy the next larger size split boot and arrange it so that the split is 180 degrees away from the split in the boot on the truck. This will still afford some protection.

One good thing about the half-shafts they sell at AZ is that if the boot on them splits, you get another one free. I think they are still warranteed for a life-time.

Good luck and let us know what you wind up doing.

JWS
99 Rodeo LSE 4WD

I think you guys have convinced me. I think I would feel better anyway knowing that the they will be cleaned and re greased with a one piece boot that won't fall apart for another 80k. I only have one that needs to be replaced right now anyway. I will probably make it a weekend and do the brakes, bearings and cv boots all at the same time. If I get really spunky I may even do the shocks. Thank for your opinions guys.

after replacing it is a good idea to lube the boots with silicone spray do it every oil change (3000) miles an dyou should not have any problem with it again and yes also lube the old ones
you can just replace the boot if it is the usual outer boot that is torn replace both of them for they both have to come off

so the spray won't harm the rubber? I was always under the impression that stuff like WD40 ate through rubber.

Silicone spray, not WD40.