tie rod replacement

I have to get my tie rods replaced, is it a difficult job to do by my self? and if it is, can you guys give me a ball park figure of what it would cost for a shop to do it? k thanx

Outers are easy. Just have to make sure they are threaded the same number of turns as the old ones when you put them on, and if your toe alignment was acceptable before, it should be the same after. If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls to one side after, you will need an alignment. Inners are more complicated, and require a special tool. I'd have it done at a shop if you aren't familiar with the job.

On the outers that I've done, I measure the the distance from the center of the old tie rod end to a paint mark I make on the tie rod. Then I make sure the new one is the same distance. I've found that on some of the Tie rod ends the body length is different than the OEM part, so the thread counting wouldn't work.

Also, make sure you have all the right size wrenches because some of the ends are pretty stubborn and you'll want to keep the main tie rod from twisting. Sometimes a little heat is in order!

you almost don't even need paint, as the inner tie rod is usually full of crap and corrosion that there is already a definate mark there. Like nymorey said, a 22mm and 13mm wrench will be needed for the nut and inner tie rod, and I think a 19mm socket removes the nut from the knuckle for the tie rod. It's very easy. For some reason, GM never made it possible to grease the factory outers, which is why they fail. W-body cars also go through inners like crazy, too.

you almost don't even need paint, as the inner tie rod is usually full of crap and corrosion that there is already a definate mark there. Like nymorey said, a 22mm and 13mm wrench will be needed for the nut and inner tie rod, and I think a 19mm socket removes the nut from the knuckle for the tie rod. It's very easy. For some reason, GM never made it possible to grease the factory outers, which is why they fail. W-body cars also go through inners like crazy, too.

Although, I did have to grind the stug off because the tie rod end broke free from it's seat before I had the nut off and I just couldn't get enough torque on little bottom center of the stud (it rounded) to allow getting the nut all the way off.

Good point. It's always a good idea to loosen the jamb nut before you try to remove the end of the outer from the knuckle.

how much is the standard price just to have a car shop do it? parts and labor included

2 - 3 hundred if they order the parts. ballpark

recently replaced mine. cost me about $100. They wouldn't guarantee alignment without getting it done.