Oil cooler line replacement

Is it a tough job? Any special tools needed? Has anyone done it before? I have a 99 SLT. If I wait, what are the chances of hose failure and engine sieze? Thanks in advance.

Are you wanting to do the Oil filter relocation lines or trans cooler lines?
The relocation lines you will have to get the motor to rock in their to be able to get it past the diff and the engine oil pan.

Its not a fun job to do

Not a hard job... If you can't pull the relocator with existing space, simply pull the driver's side motor mount bolt (18mm) and jack up the engine on that side to tilt it. Though I've never had to make soom on any truck I've done.

Tools neeeded:
Ratchet
Extentions
13mm socket

Parts needed
New lines
Gasket kit for the relocator if you pull it
Crushable washers

I replaced my lines twice and they leaked again. What I did, is cut off the factory swedged line and then I made some high pressure lines and then I flared the alluminum lines both from the block to the filter then from the filter to the radiator. I know a little excessive but I was tired of changing the whole lines again. Did that about a year ago and no problems since. :grinyes:

I replaced my lines twice and they leaked again. What I did, is cut off the factory swedged line and then I made some high pressure lines and then I flared the alluminum lines both from the block to the filter then from the filter to the radiator. I know a little excessive but I was tired of changing the whole lines again. Did that about a year ago and no problems since. :grinyes:

Great idea Brian. I just had to replace mine. If it happens again I will do what you did. At least to the remote filter lines where you have to jack up the motor.
Bob Shaw

Great idea Brian. I just had to replace mine. If it happens again I will do what you did. At least to the remote filter lines where you have to jack up the motor.
Bob Shaw

Bob,
If you decide to do that, let me know and I will let you know what I used to make the lines. I was able to modify the lines from the motor without jacking it up.

You were able to cut and flare the aluminum lines while they were still attached? What size fittings did you use. Where did you get the male to male flex lines for replacement.
Thanks.
Bob Shaw

You were able to cut and flare the aluminum lines while they were still attached? What size fittings did you use. Where did you get the male to male flex lines for replacement.
Thanks.
Bob Shaw
Bob,
I was able to cut and flare the lines off of the engine. the other end I had off and was able to do the flares on my bench. I used -8(1/2 inch) fittings I bought from an aircraft specialty catalog. I put a "B" nut on the flared tubing then a union to the flex line. I will try to take a picture of them so you can see what I mean. I figured that if the flex lines leak again, I can just replace the hose with a new one. It's been about a year or so, and I havn't had a single drop of oil from them.

So both ends of the metal lines had B nuts and flares. Then you used "flare to hose" fittings that just slip into the hose and clamp in place.
Great idea. You should get a Gold Star for than one. I wish I had kept the old leaking hoses then I could rebuild them for the next go-round.
Bob Shaw

So both ends of the metal lines had B nuts and flares. Then you used "flare to hose" fittings that just slip into the hose and clamp in place.
Great idea. You should get a Gold Star for than one. I wish I had kept the old leaking hoses then I could rebuild them for the next go-round.
Bob Shaw
I used male fittings on the hoses that screwed on to the AN-8 union. I didn't want to use hose clamps.

Now I am confused. I still don't understand the design of the "replacement tubes". Are the tubes not rubber but metal?
Bob Shaw

Thanks for the info. I decided to let a mechanic do it. Cost me $343 parts and labor. I didn't feel comfortable jacking up the engine.

Thanks for the info. I decided to let a mechanic do it. Cost me $343 parts and labor. I didn't feel comfortable jacking up the engine.

Yes I did the same thing. I had not thought about flaring the tubing and replacing just the rubber section.
Bob Shaw

Now I am confused. I still don't understand the design of the "replacement tubes". Are the tubes not rubber but metal?
Bob Shaw
The new lines are made of stainless steel hose with reuseable fittings that screw on to the ends of the hose. I'm an aircraft mechanic and I make up lines like these all the time. I figured if it'll work on a plane, it will work on a Jimmy.

Brian, can you email or fax me a catalog sheet or AN part number on the reusable fitting? Does it take a hose clamp too?
superchief87@adelphia.net
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