help in here
ledi
01-02-2005, 01:56 AM
hey, can u help me with some tips of how to add horsepower to my 73 351c
gmartinez
01-04-2005, 09:58 AM
hey, can u help me with some tips of how to add horsepower to my 73 351c
Sorry, i can't help you.
but here is an idea for future posts, make the title of you post tell us what do you want, so the people who knows about it will notice.
Good luck!!
Sorry, i can't help you.
but here is an idea for future posts, make the title of you post tell us what do you want, so the people who knows about it will notice.
Good luck!!
Jrod70MachI
01-05-2005, 03:58 AM
im sure i could help if you could give me some kind of a budget your working with
ledi
01-05-2005, 08:27 PM
well, something like 1000 dlls
bigbob
01-05-2005, 08:47 PM
if the car is stock i would skip out a bit on the hp and get some new gears, but if it is just hp you want{assuming its a stock} i suggest a new intake manifold, some headers and an elctric water pump. probly free up about 40 hp maybee more.
CHUCK76
01-14-2005, 02:20 AM
A Good 650 Holley And Good Mid Range Intake ,cam, Headers And A Desent Igniton System For Under 1000.00 But You Would Be Looking At Installing Yourself
mr_ghostdog
04-12-2005, 07:12 PM
The ford 351c can be a fairly tricky motor to extract horsepower from but if you follow some of the basic ideas i lest below it can be done fairly inexpensively and fairly easily
1. OILING, OILING, OILING. the 351c has a poor (at best) stock oilng system. Believe it or not, the oiling system is the primary cooling system in your motor. the solution is to remove the stock oil plug located just next to the stock oil filter. next, use a stainless braid hose or a metal brake line of decent size and run this line from the hole to the rear of the block to the stock oil pressure sender location. use a t-fitting to reconnect the stock sender. this will increase the effiency of the oiling system.
2. the 351c can benefit from boring the cylander walls. WARNING: DO NOT go to .030 overbore unless you absolutely have to.
3. If you want to add a blower make sure you get the compression down and beef up your rotating assembly. you do not have to replace your crank. the stock cast iron crank will work fine for you. older race engine of this platform commonly ran the stock crank up to 10k rpm without incurring damage. i do recommend forged dished piston, and forged rods.
my personal 351 has a 4.021 final bore, ross racing forged dished pistons with 0.650 valve clearance due to the super large cam i run (585/609 lift). Also use the 2 barrel heads (yes 2 barrel, i know the parts are harder to come by with them but the open compression area is optimal for lower compression for a blower). If your going to run a blower your compression should be around 8.5:1.
4. Valves. please dont shoot me for this, im a die hard ford fan, but, you may want to looking chevy valves that have the grind area to help your air/fuel mixture flow better into your heads.
5. Intake: i used a wieand intake alone with a plenum divider to help the airflow. this manifold can be modified easily to accept edelbrocks nitrous system.
these should help you a little, you can email me if you'd like to see examples of the above on my current 351. My motor makes around 800hp and 650ft/lbs of torque. It is installed in a 2000 ford mustang that originally was a v6. good luck with your build up
1. OILING, OILING, OILING. the 351c has a poor (at best) stock oilng system. Believe it or not, the oiling system is the primary cooling system in your motor. the solution is to remove the stock oil plug located just next to the stock oil filter. next, use a stainless braid hose or a metal brake line of decent size and run this line from the hole to the rear of the block to the stock oil pressure sender location. use a t-fitting to reconnect the stock sender. this will increase the effiency of the oiling system.
2. the 351c can benefit from boring the cylander walls. WARNING: DO NOT go to .030 overbore unless you absolutely have to.
3. If you want to add a blower make sure you get the compression down and beef up your rotating assembly. you do not have to replace your crank. the stock cast iron crank will work fine for you. older race engine of this platform commonly ran the stock crank up to 10k rpm without incurring damage. i do recommend forged dished piston, and forged rods.
my personal 351 has a 4.021 final bore, ross racing forged dished pistons with 0.650 valve clearance due to the super large cam i run (585/609 lift). Also use the 2 barrel heads (yes 2 barrel, i know the parts are harder to come by with them but the open compression area is optimal for lower compression for a blower). If your going to run a blower your compression should be around 8.5:1.
4. Valves. please dont shoot me for this, im a die hard ford fan, but, you may want to looking chevy valves that have the grind area to help your air/fuel mixture flow better into your heads.
5. Intake: i used a wieand intake alone with a plenum divider to help the airflow. this manifold can be modified easily to accept edelbrocks nitrous system.
these should help you a little, you can email me if you'd like to see examples of the above on my current 351. My motor makes around 800hp and 650ft/lbs of torque. It is installed in a 2000 ford mustang that originally was a v6. good luck with your build up
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