1997 blazer wont start

ok i bought a 97 blazer lt 4x4 not running. but i have seen it run. anyways it has spark and tries to fire but wont with starter fluid. so i checked the fuel pressure and it was in the 50's and then i try to start it and it fires right up, so i take the tester off and try to fire it thinking its gonna start and it doesnt. is this a regulator problem or pump? it only starts when the tester is on it

when i turn the key on i can hear the fuel pump kick on so the pump is working

your fuel pressure needs to be around 60. seems like you need a new fuel pump.

Or the regulator is bad. Carefully restrict the return line back to the tank. When you turn on the pump, watch the pressure gage. If it hits 70psi, releive the restriction or chance blowing out some of the fuel system. It is capable of 100psi.

when key is on psi is 55 when crank its 63psi, then goes back to 55 psi

The pressure is a little low (specs call for 60-66psi). Does the fuel pressure hold steady after the key is turned off? How long will it run with the tester on it. Or does it stay running as long as it's held into the crank position? The tester is a regular fuel pressure gage? Is the tester screwed onto the schraider valve on the fuel line? I can't see how the tester changes whether it will run unless the position of the tester is moving a connector or harness.

yea the pressure tester is screwed in the valve. the psi is 63 when cranking and when you quit cranking it drops to 53 psi. it wont start anymore with the tester on, just a one time thing, just cranks. i bought a fuel pump today and im gonna install it tonight

i have a 98 s10 blazer was getting pour gas mileage and hard 2 start would crank over awhile before starting then idled rough i finally took off the upper manifold and seen that it was all black inside i replaced the fuel regulator first now it starts right up and idles smooth 4.3 vortec has around 150k miles this is the best it has run since ive had it .

Also, try squirting some gas into the throttle body and if it will start, you know you have a fuel issue.

If not, it is a 1997, you have a bad ignition module which could be causing other problems.

yea its not the fuel pump, cause i drove it yesterday now it going back to the same old thing

Ignition switch.

why do you say its a switch?, the plugs are wet with gas

Because you have a 1997 which is plagued with the same trouble many other 1997 owners have had and it was fixed with a new switch.

why do say its ignition switch when the key is on and cranking it fouls the plugs out, and why couldnt it be a regulator problem ( diaphram problem?

Because the ignition switch controls the ignition and spark, you aren't getting the spark for the fuel, hence the wet plugs full of fuel.

but im getting a good spark..and the blazer has started twice just not since then. it seems everytime i take the plugs and clean them it will fire up

the blazer is getting spark though, and has started twice. how do i know its not the fuel regulator? ignition switches arnt cheap i dont want to just buy a part and have it still act up

*Sigh*

Do what you want, I could care less now.

if you were to check out this entire forum about 97 blazers if there is a problem and it can't be solved than check the ignition switch. I don't have a 97 but I have been watching this forum ever sicne I joined a couple months ago. Also Blazer LT does know what he talks about. I used to be bullheaded also as to doing soem work on my vehicle but now been finding out that maybe I shoulda done more maintance and check out everything right away that people suggest. I just found out recently that my 4x4 system is not working correctly well it goes back to when I joined this forum. It was due to flooding ym engine and I forgot to drain my 4x4 system now I need to. Found out it is ratehr nasty and it is getting changed. If only I ahd checked out what peopel suggested sooner it wouldn't have caused me as many headaches. But believe what you want to.

i dont know what to do, i jumped in it tonight and it fired right up.. and has a little miss to it but none the less it runs. seems to start up fine. i looked at the switch and it looks like its been replaced already. i seem to be having a problem with turning the key and getting it out the column

If your key isn't coming out properly and giving you trouble like you said maybe it wasn't changed or maybe it needs changed again. I know you said it looks changed but did you in fact have that work done? Don't assume other people did the work for you. Also it may be starting now but you have also said in a previous post
yea its not the fuel pump, cause i drove it yesterday now it going back to the same old thing
How do you know it isn't just happy right now and starting and not gonna cause a problem another day?

well, if your spark plugs get wet with fuel, Blazer LT is right and you dont have the spark to ignite it. It might be your distributor. Check for spark on the wire from the coil to the distributor, if you have spark there, then check each wire from the distributor to the spark plugs 1 by 1 and make sure theyre all getting spark.

Because the ignition switch controls the ignition and spark, you aren't getting the spark for the fuel, hence the wet plugs full of fuel.

Comment/Question: I did some checking on this ignition switch. For clarification, and this is a question for the experts out there, the ignition switch it's not the key/tumbler. (Right?) The ignition switch is the ~foot long wiring harness in the steering column and it costs about $130 for the part alone... And as for the fuel pump relay, that is located in the glove box.

Question: In a previous thread there was talk about wiggling the "pink wire" which presumably goes to the fuel pump. What more can you say about this?

Question: If the ignition switch is such a problem in '97 Blazers (like the one I own) what can you do to correct the problem without buying a new $130 switch? I mean, if the harness is not assembled right or that over time the pink wire ends get corroaded, can it be cleaned or repaired? This might be especially helpful if you are stuck out in the middle of no where.

I'm pretty sure you can buy the black module alone.

But there is no way around the switch replacement.

You gotta pay to get the truck running properly.

I'm pretty sure you can buy the black module alone.

But there is no way around the switch replacement.

You gotta pay to get the truck running properly.


Are you saying you can buy just the back module on the end of the wire-harness? Sorry, I have not taken it apart. I have only seen a drawing of it at the auto parts store. Thanks for your advise. I'm sure I speak for a number of us S-10 owners when I say, "I appreciate your help."

how do you unconnect the wires to the module

I believe from what I have heard that there is a couple of screws holing it in place.

i took the black box out is that what needs replaced?

Yes, small black module.

Check to see if the contacts are corroded. If so clean them and reinstall and it might fix it temporarily.