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Drum


BaldieC
12-29-2004, 07:04 PM
I had trouble removing the drum so I decided to adjust the adjusting wheel through that peep hole in the backing plate. Initially I tightened it such that I could not move anything so I tried to turn the adjusting wheel in the opposite direction so the shoes would be released from the drum. Even when backing the adjustment lever off the adjusting wheel, I can't turn it for the life of me. Now the rear wheels are stuck.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!

NJPagan
12-29-2004, 07:19 PM
The star wheel you turned has some sort of mechanical device against it that only permits it to turn in one direction. (The direction it needs to go to keep your drum brakes adjusted up and functioning) Look through the hole you turned the star wheel with, using a flashlight, and look to see where there is a dog or a sear (sometimes it's even a spring integral to internal brake shoe tension) in there preventing the starwheel from going the direction you need it to go. Hold the sear out of the way with one screwdriver, and turn the star wheel with another screwdriver. Yeah, the operation can get a little crowded and frustrating, but getting that mechanical device out of the way so you can do what you have to do is a must...
Good Luck...;)

Stephen

JDPascal
12-29-2004, 09:06 PM
NJPagan is right on.

I use a wire coat hanger that is cut to about a 10 inch length. Bend an L hook on one end about 3/4 inch long and an L handle on the other end so you can manouver it around.

Insert the small L end sideways into the adjuster hole and to the rear of the adjuster wheel - over top of the link body. Once over the link body, turn the wire so the L is pointed down and push in slightly.

You will feel the resistance of the spring pulling toward you on the selfadjuster lever. Hold the lever away from the star wheel and turn the side of the adjuster star wheel down ward on the side facing you to back off the brakes.

If you take the brakes apart, do not mix up the adjuster links. That will cause the automatic adjustment to back off the brakes every time you apply the brakes in reverse - just the opposite of what you want to happen. The non thread end of the adjusters are marked with an "R" and an "L" for the side they are installed on. Just put a little antisieze compound on that end when you reassembe the brakes.

JD

brainyass
12-30-2004, 03:30 AM
My drums were the same way. Instead of adjusting through the hole, I whacked it several good times with a rubber mallet. It came off with a little bit of struggling.

BaldieC
12-30-2004, 07:43 AM
Thanks all!

What happens if ultimately I can't turn the adjusting wheel even if I am disengaging the mechanical device that NJPagan mentions. I am almost positive I am disengaging it but the adjusting wheel ins't budging and the drum is not moving.

JDPascal
12-30-2004, 07:57 AM
The adjuster wheel can jam if tightened too much.

Make sure the end of the tool moves down at the end where it pries against the wheel. thats the way it should work anyway.

you should beable to see the notched wheel if you hold a lite to the adjuster hole.

JD

BaldieC
12-30-2004, 08:19 AM
I can definately see the wheel JD. Any recomendations on what to doif its jammed?

scuba4321
12-30-2004, 06:55 PM
disconnect the brake lines, this should allow the wheel cylinders to compress enough to remove the drums, Your parking brake is not on is it? Sorry had to ask, You may still need to smack it! Also some drums have a star washer on 1-2 studs , check that too! if so just pry them of and chuck-em!

BaldieC
12-30-2004, 08:21 PM
Thanks guys. My Uncle came over (mechanic for teh post office) and, with a magic touch, got the adjusting wheel to turn. Rear brakes all done! The other wheel was no problem.

JDPascal
12-31-2004, 12:11 AM
undoing the brake lines will not do anything to release the drum brakes unless there is a total restriction somewhere in the line. Drum brakes retract completely so the shoes contact the anchor when they are not applied. The only pressure in the lines to a drum brake would be due to a residual pressure check valve (if there is one) and that would only be 5 to 15 psi. Far less than the force of the shoe return springs.


The parking brake is a good point though. Sometimes it could be over adjusted or the cables siezed so the adjuster will not back the brakes off enough to clear the drum wear ridge.

JD

JDPascal
12-31-2004, 12:12 AM
BaldieC - Glad you got it free....

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