Another 99 v6 cougar Charging problem

I'm sorta new here and I have seen alot of the same problems with these cars on the Late model cougars. MY Girlfriend has this car and it's been a real pain int eh but the last 6 months.

A few weeks ago I drove her car and noticed the battery light lightly flickered on when I had to full throttle the car out of the way, and then it did it when i started the car in the morning during the Cold start, but went away, So I inspected the main belt and saw it was really old like 79k old so I replaced it. and went on with our like. then Christmas eve the car broke down on her and , it acted like either a dead battery or bad connection, turned out to be a bad connection at the negative post.

then she drove around some more and then it died a few hours later again but this time not a bad connection, We put the keys in the ignition and turn it over and the car ( click, click, click, click, and all the gauges reset etc... ) acts like a dead battery , test the battery the volts are a 10.5 steady, and when the car was running it was only at 12.5 volts were it should be around 14volts correct?

I have the pleasure to fix this car tommorow and would like to track down ALL the problems first ( The sight glass is red on the battery , so I guess I need to replace it , and the Alternator needs replacement , but what about the VOLTAGE SENSOR and VOLTAGE SENSOR FUSE I keep reading about.
Where is the VOLTAGE SENSOR ?
which fuse is the VOLTAGE SENSOR FUSE under the hood next to the battery?

Thanks for All your HELP?

I am not a little confused , but I was just told by some one that this car has an internal voltage regulator ? BEing that I have to have the car towed back to my house , I can't run outside and look for it, does anyone know?

JMR
Welcome to the 99 Cougar world of Electrical woes. It sounds like your battery is bad. And mosty likely your alternator is bad also. Duratec engines are notorious for consuming alternators. Some as fast as 25K -30K. One of the main reasons is the wiring that sends the voltage signal to the Voltage regulator inside the alternator. It runs all the way up to a positive bus inside the car and back to the alternator. This wire is a very common weak link and one of the main reasons the alternators cook themselves I suspect.

When you change your alternator (Big Fun) Splice into the small red wire from the 3 Wire plug on the alternator and run it over to the Positive output post of the alternator. This will solve the flickering battery light problem when the engine is rev'd up, because the true voltage of the alternator is being monitored. And contrary to the way most alternators behave with the voltage being higher than 12V while it is running. If the battery is fully charged it will hover right around 12V -12.5V. If you put a voltmeter on your car right now I would suspect that the voltage starts dropping the longer you hold the revs up. Mine went as low as 10.5V. For some reason the cells in the batteries dont last very long anymore either? If a cell is bad you will wear out another alternator in short order.

You can also replace the alternator without pulling the axle out of the car. I think I posted the instructions a few weeks ago. It is not a quick operation though. You need to set aside 3 - 4 hours. I can probably do it in about 2.5 hours now that I now the sequence.

I'll send you the sequence if you like.

Kris

yes , please send the sequence,

I just trackeed down a battery, Seems that everyone in my area that has the same group size battery needed one cause it was hard to find.
Anyway I replaced the battery a few mins ago, and it's too late to change the alternator now becasue it's 11.30 at night, but I started the car and the just at idle the battery light is flickering very so lightly , almost to the point you don't notice it.
I tested the voltage while running and it's @ 12.1
with lights on.
and after the car warmend up the battery light stoped.
but still reads the same voltage.????
then i was wondering if volt meter was acting up so , check both ,my very sound Toyota, and Honda and 12v off and 14.4 running , so the meter is ok...but the Cougar is not.
I will change the alternator
but i have read something about a fuse in the underthe hood fuse box that is also linked to simlar problems. just for furture refrence I would like to know what fuse they are talking about.

I Found today a Repair Manual for the 99 Cougar
"THANK THE LORD"

OK here is an UPDATE I have just pulled the alternator out, took about 45 mins I would say, but keep in mind that I'm using air tools impact and air ratchet. I would like to say that it doesn't sound like alot of work as discribed in some posts but, I would say that getting to that top mounting bolt is what is going to slow down anyone, unless you have a lot of diff. size hand tools such as a swivel socket and an diff. length extentions , but keep in mind the further out you go the less levearge you have and also you are going to have to cram your hand up in the there to keep pressure on the bolt head so you don't strip it. I'm thinking that there a few diff. tool combos to get to that bolt, and I would have gotten to it quicker , if my friend hadn't lost my 13mm swivel impact socket.

steps I did

Discontect battery

-remove pass wheel

- unbolt lower splash guards 2 of them

-unbolt steering tie rod bolt

-unbolt strut bolt

-pop off brake line from strut so no presure is put on it when pulling the axle out of the way

-unbot sway bar link ( wrench and socket needed)

-remove exhaust y- pipe , also includes unplug o2 sensor

- pull axle out of the way towards the rear of car

- unbolt halfshaft -3 13mm bolts on block
-2 13mm nuts on shield then pull out halfr shaft

- unbolt alternator brace bolts and remove

- unbolt 10mm power lead

- unplug 3pin plug

-unplug single grey wire

- unbolt lower alternator bolt and upper

then pull it out through wheel well

presto , put back in reverse

I took lots of pictures, I also noticed I have to replace oil pan gasket , so I'm gonna do that before I put the y- pipe back on

ok all done and the car runs at 14.4 to 14.3 volts with blower, radio and headlights on

Have complete set of pictures for anyone if they want e-mail me at [email protected]

Just for the record, my daughter's Cougar had an alternater go bad, and after replacing it (what a blast!) the battery light was still on, and it ended up stalling again. After putting in a new battery, the battery light was STILL on, so I checked the fuse box up by the battery, and sure enough the 10A fuse was blown. Replacing it fixed the problem. Without a manual, I don't know the purpose of this fuse. Maybe someone else with more knowledge would know.

Just for the record, my daughter's Cougar had an alternater go bad, and after replacing it (what a blast!) the battery light was still on, and it ended up stalling again. After putting in a new battery, the battery light was STILL on, so I checked the fuse box up by the battery, and sure enough the 10A fuse was blown. Replacing it fixed the problem. Without a manual, I don't know the purpose of this fuse. Maybe someone else with more knowledge would know.

If you grounded your battery to the car, you wouldnt want to start an electrical fire. Im sure the fuse is there to prevent that, if that should occur.

OK here is an UPDATE I have just pulled the alternator out, took about 45 mins I would say, but keep in mind that I'm using air tools impact and air ratchet. I would like to say that it doesn't sound like alot of work as discribed in some posts but, I would say that getting to that top mounting bolt is what is going to slow down anyone, unless you have a lot of diff. size hand tools such as a swivel socket and an diff. length extentions , but keep in mind the further out you go the less levearge you have and also you are going to have to cram your hand up in the there to keep pressure on the bolt head so you don't strip it. I'm thinking that there a few diff. tool combos to get to that bolt, and I would have gotten to it quicker , if my friend hadn't lost my 13mm swivel impact socket.

steps I did

Discontect battery

-remove pass wheel

- unbolt lower splash guards 2 of them

-unbolt steering tie rod bolt

-unbolt strut bolt

-pop off brake line from strut so no presure is put on it when pulling the axle out of the way

-unbot sway bar link ( wrench and socket needed)

-remove exhaust y- pipe , also includes unplug o2 sensor

- pull axle out of the way towards the rear of car

- unbolt halfshaft -3 13mm bolts on block
-2 13mm nuts on shield then pull out halfr shaft

- unbolt alternator brace bolts and remove

- unbolt 10mm power lead

- unplug 3pin plug

-unplug single grey wire

- unbolt lower alternator bolt and upper

then pull it out through wheel well

presto , put back in reverse

I took lots of pictures, I also noticed I have to replace oil pan gasket , so I'm gonna do that before I put the y- pipe back on

i just changed my alt, it can be done (with the right tools) only haveing to remove the wheel ,inner fender, and the tie rod end e-mail me i will give me phone# and will be happy to walk you through it

I've removed my alternator and took it to autozone and they're alternator test machine doesnt support my alternator. so to properly test it the guy told me to put it back on the car and take the car to him to do a load test. I"m not gonna do that because it was too much of a bitch to remove the damn thing. But when it was on i connected a dc voltmeter to the battery when the car was running and it was at 11.81 volts i reved the engine up and it would go up .03v only. so can i be sure its the alternator and go ahead and buy a new one? also is there a way i can test the alternator myself when its out?

I've removed my alternator and took it to autozone and they're alternator test machine doesnt support my alternator. so to properly test it the guy told me to put it back on the car and take the car to him to do a load test. I"m not gonna do that because it was too much of a bitch to remove the damn thing. But when it was on i connected a dc voltmeter to the battery when the car was running and it was at 11.81 volts i reved the engine up and it would go up .03v only. so can i be sure its the alternator and go ahead and buy a new one? also is there a way i can test the alternator myself when its out?
the autozone buy me tested mine maby try napa or pep boys. i would say it is your alt but to be sure remove the pos battery cable use a volt meter and check for continuity (sorry for spelling) between the red output wire at the alt to the pos battery cable at the battery if yes the alt is bad if no you may have a blown maxi fuse. it is located between the alt and the battery behind the engine not easy to get to but i will be happy to help if you need it

So my 1999 cougar stalled out on me. Took the battery to O'Reilly and they said it was good, just needed to be charged. Charged it, and the battery light was still on. Was advised that I needed a new alternator. So I installed a new one (as stated before by other people, it was no fun), and the battery light was nit on. I drive at down the street, and it stalls out AGAIN! So I check the battery voltage sensor fuse (I have the original owners manual) and it was blown, so I replaced it. I jump started the car and drove it home. Battery light is off still. Is there anything else I can do to determine the problem solved?

So my 1999 cougar stalled out on me. Took the battery to O'Reilly and they said it was good, just needed to be charged. Charged it, and the battery light was still on. Was advised that I needed a new alternator. So I installed a new one (as stated before by other people, it was no fun), and the battery light was nit on. I drive at down the street, and it stalls out AGAIN! So I check the battery voltage sensor fuse (I have the original owners manual) and it was blown, so I replaced it. I jump started the car and drove it home. Battery light is off still. Is there anything else I can do to determine the problem solved?

Make sure you read my post on alternator not charging.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1076153