1990 Accord alternator removal help

I bought a 1990 Honda Accord LX 2.2L 4 door last week, and the previous owner said he went through 4 batteries the last 6 months and that the Battery Light has been blinking. It was his daughters, and thats the only info he knows. I got it cheap, and assumed it was the alternator pooping out on her. I charged the battery, and on the way to get the alt tested, the car died with a charged battery! I think it may have a short, causing the battery to discharge rapidly. When I did make it to the shop, they said the alt is bad. Does anyone have ideas on how to get this thing out? And, to install the new one? I hear I have to take out an axle? Any info is helpful! I cant trace any shorts until I know FOR SURE my car is charging properly. Thankx...

A blinking alternator light when the car is running is indicative of worn slip ring brushes. Probably need to replace the alternator. It comes out from the top after you move the steering pump out of the way. The steering pump is pretty straight forward. Do not disconnect the hoses. The alternator is harder because it is lower into the engine compartment. You will need to work from underneath and also from the top. There is a belt adustment bolt on the top and a pivot bolt on the bottorml. Once they are out and the belt is off the pulley, the alternator will come out. It is best to get a rebuilt from Kragens/Autozone as they are cheaper and are guaranteed for the life of the car or as long as you own it. In installing, do not tighten the belts to tight. To tight belts take out bearings. Somehow I remember recent posts regarding this same problem on this web site but not from you.

Kew, thanks man. I got the old one out no prob, got a new one, and GOT VERY PISSED OFF last night trying to get the new one in. I got it in, but can't seem to get the pivot bolt in from underneath. Bastards sold me a reman alt with threaded pivot mount, the old alt had a thru pivot mount. Now I have to get this one PERFECTLY IN LINE to get the threads started. And, I haven't even got to the adjusting/tightening stage! Damn it, looks as if I may have a long night ahead of me...

Take it back if it is not a exact replacement.

You know what, I took it back, and it was identical EXCEPT for the threaded pivot mount. I had them drill out the mount so I can get it thru and voila! It goes in, but I havent gotten in there to tighten it all down yet. New Years came, and I cleaned up to go partay. I plan on tacklin this car ASAP, probably today after work. Thanks guys for the input!

You know, I took that piece of crap replacement alt down, and matched it up with my core, and guess what? THE BRACKETS WERE OFF ALMOST AN INCH ALL AROUND! He sent my OEM alt down, and had that one rebiult. When I got it back, it almost fell right in! I spent countless HOURS trying to get that replacement in, and spent MINUTES getting my OEM in! MPUMAS you were right on my friend...
Now my next dilemma...After replacing the alt, charging the battery, and having the system checked out OK, my stupid Battery Light remains on. I have noticed that the door pin switch dos not engage when opening the door, causing the dome light to not work properly, and the cruise control does not work (light does not come on on dash), so it makes me think maybe I have a short somewhere? the front end has repair damage, perhaps I have apinched wire causing the Battery Light to remain on? Any ideas?? Thanks!

The first thing to do is put a meter on the battery. Check the voltage and then start the engine.
Speeding up the engine should cause the voltage to increase across the battery terminals to the mid 14 volt range. If it does, the alternator is putting out and we need to look further. The light is connected to the 12v bus after the ignition switch on one side and the voltage regulator on the other side. It will come on if the voltage on the bus side is higher then the voltage at the voltage regulator. The wire that connects at the voltage regulator also goes to the integrated control unit and anti-lock brake control unit. If the voltage regulator side is grounded either by a wire short or through one of the above units, the light will be lit. Disconnect the alternator plug and connect a meter from the wht/blu to ground. With the key on and the car not running, you should see battery voltage. If not, there is an open or short. Keep us advised.

OK, i took the car on the freeway, and although the light will not come on when pushing the cruise control button on the dash, cruise light comes on in the instrument cluster and works just fine. Rule that out. I put a meter on the battery, and am getting 14+ volts out of the alt. so that works great. Battery tested good also. Charging system was checked and works great. Matter of fact, the guy at the station said ignore the light because its charging properly. But come on, the light is on for a reason!
Anyways, Ill "disconnect the alternator plug and connect a meter from the wht/blu to ground. With the key on and the car not running, you should see battery voltage. If not, there is an open or short."
Ill keep you advised...