Thinking of Getting an X

I've driven Toyotas for about 12 years, and now I'm thinking of trading my 99' TRD 4x4 Tacoma for an Xterra. I haven't fully made up my mind so I'm looking for the pros and cons. I've been VERY happy with my Tacoma and have used it for pretty extensive off road excursions (i.e. Tellico), but I've grown tired of beating up my daily driver off road. The truck is just a little rough for long road trips and I'm looking for something that is still capable off hwy, but with a nicer on road ride. The Tacoma rides "ok" but the Xterra seemed somewhat better, although I was only in it for a 2 mile test drive.

I'm considering trading the Tacoma for a 2002 SE Xterra 4x4 more for it's room and road trip appeal rather than an off road machine. I have read several reviews stating that it's quite capable off road, which is important to me as I'm an avid camper/hiker, but I will not be using this as a "trail" vehicle.

What is maintenance like on this vehicle? I don't trust dealers to even do oil changes.

Is the supercharger a worth while option? It's only $1300 for the SC package locally, but the Toyota blower has had fuel management issues and I don't want to get into that if the X has had similar problems. Does the blower require the use of high octane fuel (i.e. 93) as it does on the Tacoma?

Any other options I should look at or suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks in advance.

That's a lot of questions so I'll answer a few, and let others have at the rest.

For your use the Xterra is great out of the box. Slap some AT tires on it if you want, and you're ready to go.

The SC option is the only "new" part of the powerplant. The Xterra V6 has been around a long time, so no surprises there. The SC only gives you an extra 40 hp, and requires premium gas. The standard V6 hovers around 16-18 mpg average, so premium can get spendy.

The 2002 Xterra has the e-brake on the floor, which is an issue for the 5-spd drivers out there when offroading. Grab a 2001 if this is an issue for you. Otherwise go Auto.

Aftermarket options for the Xterra are just starting to appear. But like I said, some good tires, and (maybe) some Bilstein shocks for a smoother ride and you're ready to go.

Low maintainence, and a lot of fun, you would be joining a lot of satisfied customers who own this truck.

I'll jump in here. The X should do quite well for what you are describing. Room wise, you'll be a lot better off. Ride wise, I think you will be a lot happier. My wife and I have taken our X on numerous long vacation drives, and she has never been anything but comfortable in the truck, so I think you would find the ride good.

I would stay away from the SC option. The base V6 has never been a problem for me, even running up the mountains here in western NC. The X has done quite well on the steep hillclimbs around my house on a daily basis.

Go for the X...I think you would be very happy with it.

Thanks for the quick replies and good info.

From your responses I think I've eliminated the SC as I don't want to have to deal with the cost of premium fuel, nor the maintenance a SC might require.

Finally, where is the oil filter located on the V6 engine? I looked around and never did see it, granted I didn't climb under the vehicle at the dealer.

How long has this V6 powreplant been around?

Thanks in advance,

Toy4x4Guy

Originally posted by Toy4x4Guy


Finally, where is the oil filter located on the V6 engine? I looked around and never did see it, granted I didn't climb under the vehicle at the dealer.

How long has this V6 powerplant been around?

Thanks in advance,

Toy4x4Guy

Again- I'll answer some of the questions- The oil filter is under the engine skid plate. 5 or 6 10mm bolts hold that on, and you can see the filter right as you take it off- look for it above the centerlink, towards the drivers side.

The problem with Nissans in general when it comes to offroading them is the steering. If you are keeping it stock, or close to stock, you should not have problems. When lifting the IFS Nissan, steering components begin to wear.

Aside from this, Toyota normally has better gap tolerances, and generally less fit and finish issues than Nissan, but their engines are just as reliable. The VG33E is antiquated, but proven.

IMHO, the Xterra is the best value in the truck based SUV category, which is why I bought it. The 4runner was a contender but was quickly dismissed in favor of wither the Xterra or Discovery (IMHO, another bargain for what you get, especially compared to a $Runner).

Originally posted by wqbang
The problem with Nissans in general when it comes to offroading them is the steering. If you are keeping it stock, or close to stock, you should not have problems. When lifting the IFS Nissan, steering components begin to wear.

Aside from this, Toyota normally has better gap tolerances, and generally less fit and finish issues than Nissan, but their engines are just as reliable. The VG33E is antiquated, but proven.

IMHO, the Xterra is the best value in the truck based SUV category, which is why I bought it. The 4runner was a contender but was quickly dismissed in favor of wither the Xterra or Discovery (IMHO, another bargain for what you get, especially compared to a $Runner).

Yeah no kidding on the $Runner. I looked at one of those and the base model 4x4 starts off at $29K! Ridiculous. I have been pretty disappointed with Toyota lately. It seems like they're catering more to the "mall going" crowd rather than outdoor enthusiast. The 4Runner is just too expensive for what you get. I think the Xterra is a very good value.

Thanks for the responses. My Tacoma is paid for, so I just gotta get the Nissan dealer to give me a fair trade in allowance.

If its paid for sell it yourself! No dealer is going to give you a "fair" price trust me I've worked at 3 dealerships in 2 different states. This is especially true for newer vehicles you will get 3k to 5k more selling it yourself.

Well, they're already offering $15K (and that's over the phone without seeing my truck). When they say $16K it's traded. The KBB value is $14.5K so if I get 16K I'll be satisfied. A buddy of mine works at Nissan, so I get the nice discount on the new X.

If I don't get the $16K I'll sell it myself.

I'm still flipping a coin as to whether or not I want to have a car note again. It sure has been nice not having to make that payment every month. If anything I'll just finance it for 3 years, which isn't too bad considering Nissan is also offering a 3.9% APR till the end of March. All in all I'll come out pretty good.

One last questions on the X. How is it as far a rattling and squeeking. Rattles and squeeks drive me nuts, especially the interior variety. I know some of you guys take yours off road quite a bit. If ya'lls don't have rattling problems I doubt mine ever will.

Thanks again.

I'm hardly the type to notice or care, but I haven't had any noteworthy problems with any rattles or squeaks or such with my 2000 X, other than the leaf springs squeaking and the exhaust heat shield rattling for less then a minute as the engine warms up. The heat shield can be taken care of by the dealer, and the leafs can be dealt with by blasting them with a pressure washer followed by a good shot of some sort of lubricant.
Others have had problems with various rattles and squeaks, but most have been isolated and taken care of without much hassle as I recall.

Brent

Originally posted by Toy4x4Guy
Well, they're already offering $15K (and that's over the phone without seeing my truck). When they say $16K it's traded. The KBB value is $14.5K so if I get 16K I'll be satisfied. A buddy of mine works at Nissan, so I get the nice discount on the new X.

If I don't get the $16K I'll sell it myself.

I'm still flipping a coin as to whether or not I want to have a car note again. It sure has been nice not having to make that payment every month. If anything I'll just finance it for 3 years, which isn't too bad considering Nissan is also offering a 3.9% APR till the end of March. All in all I'll come out pretty good.

One last questions on the X. How is it as far a rattling and squeeking. Rattles and squeeks drive me nuts, especially the interior variety. I know some of you guys take yours off road quite a bit. If ya'lls don't have rattling problems I doubt mine ever will.

Thanks again.

I dont care if they tell you they are giving you 21k they make up the difference somewhere else. The last dealer I worked at usualy made up the difference with higher interest loans. Just slightly higher telling you that it was all you qualified for. Most dealers just dont cut you the same break on your purchase that they might normaly and your more willing to accept it if you feal your getting good money on your trade. Whatever you chose to do, do it at the end of the month. That alone will save you a couple hundred.

Thanks for the tips.

Originally posted by RticQl8


I dont care if they tell you they are giving you 21k they make up the difference somewhere else. The last dealer I worked at usualy made up the difference with higher interest loans. Just slightly higher telling you that it was all you qualified for. Most dealers just dont cut you the same break on your purchase that they might normaly and your more willing to accept it if you feal your getting good money on your trade. Whatever you chose to do, do it at the end of the month. That alone will save you a couple hundred.

I got alot more on trade then I would have selling my old X. The market in Phoenix is sort of flooded with 4x2 Xterras, so I just made sure I knew my numbers before I went into the dealership. Unless you are going to use the 4.9% financing through Nissan(which is a great deal IMHO), I would recommend seeing what a credit union will offer you first. That will give you an idea if the dealership is full of shit or not, since most dealerships use credit unions for their loans anyway. Also, know your numbers before you walk in the door, and stick to your guns the whole time. The other reason to trade, at least here in PHX, is that you only get taxed on the difference in price. If you sell your ride yourself and pay cash you pay tax on the whole truck. If you spend about $23-25K that adds up fast. I paid $373 in tax total on $23K when I got my new truck, if I would have sold it myself and walked in, I would have paid $1771. Make sure you know all the options they try to put on the car and the real price for those options. I found edmunds to be more helpful then Blue book, IMHO.

Good luck, you sound like a person who would really enjoy the X. It is a pretty smooth city ride, I drive 50 miles a day round trip to work, and it is a capable 4x4 with some A/Ts for tires.

In california the buyer has to pay taxes not the seller. Unless your trying to sell a lease (but thats an entirely different situation). And remember the dealership is buying your ride to sell it. There not going to sell it for less than what they bought it for. If they can get more for it so can you.

Originally posted by RticQl8
In california the buyer has to pay taxes not the seller. Unless your trying to sell a lease (but thats an entirely different situation). And remember the dealership is buying your ride to sell it. There not going to sell it for less than what they bought it for. If they can get more for it so can you.

You have to pay more taxes if you buy your vehicle from a dealership with the cash for the sale of your vehicle instead of trading it in because they only tax the difference. You are right that you can get more money, but it really depends on the market. I had a crap load of surface scratches on my truck, something I would have had to buff out(it would have been a lot of buffing, I had already tried to do a basic wax), but the dealership didn't give a shit, they had detail people on staff. I sold 2 vehicles when I purchased my first X, both person to person deals. What a pain in my ass. IMHO it was much easy to just go in and trade the truck. All finished in about 5 hours. If you like the deal a trade gives you, go for it. If not sell the truck in autotrader and see if you can get that much more. I was just trying to illustrate that it is not always the best idea to just sell your truck outright. It all depends on how much time you have, and what the market in your area will allow you to do.

Thats what they count on. They make it easy and convienent then take you for a ride. If you only new the inside workings, what happens in the back office you would never consider trading in a vehicle thats paid for. Its a HUGE mistake. Your not risking a couple hundred bucks. On a new vehicle you could lose as much at 3 to 10k depending on how much of a sucker you are. Selling a vehicle yourself isn't as hard as you think and the local car wash will be more than happy to detail it for you at a reasonable price. Dealers have a way of making you feal good about your purchase, thats their job but unless your family 99% if the time your getting screwed!

if you know your numbers. I don't see how you can get screwed out of 3K to 10K if you know your numbers. If I know how much my truck is going for in autotrader/the paper, and I find invoice on the internet, then all I am losing is the dealer kick backs from the manf. I have no problem with that as a dealer should make some money. Where is the 3K coming from? If you lose 10K you deserve to get taken, you are just a moron then. Could you explain where the rest of this money is coming from? Advertising fees? If I go to carsdirect.com, edmunds.com and kbb.com, I belive I have a reasonable assumption as to what ballpark I should be looking for. Do you believe a vehicle cost that much less then what everything says? And I have seen the backend of car dealers as I also have friends that own dealerships(not a nissan one though).

I completely disagree with you about selling a car. It is easy if you have a desirable vehicle. The 2 vehicles I sold to get my first X were a 1994 Honda Accord and a 1994 Chevy S10. The chevy had low miles, but it was manual 4x2, power nothing, POS. What a bitch to sell. I had to jump through hoops to finally sell it to some 19 year kid and his girlfriend. It then took them 5 days to get the money from their credit union. They finally paid, but then I had to sell the accord. Still took time and effort. And I ended up about the same I would have been if I had gone to a dealer and held my ground hard.

I completely disagree with you about selling a car. It is easy if you have a desirable vehicle.

I agree with both points you made, the selling of the vehicle privately, and the not getting hosed by the dealer on a trade-in. You have to accept the fact that you will probably not get as much for a trade-in as you would on a private sale, the dealer can't take your car and sell it at cost -- business is about making money, not friends.

I traded in my Civic to buy my Xterra, and I knew all the numbers very well before going in for the purchase. I knew I would take a small loss on the trade-in, but my time is money and the $500 difference I would have gotten on the street was not worth it. Plus all the registration and insurance paperwork is done in one shot.

Depends on time etc. In my case time is serious money and my wheels need to be there - no issues. I got for a trade-in so that I am in then out but I do go late at night, at the end of the month with a binder with a credit report, consumer reports, dealership reviews and records and research on the proper price of the new car/truck and what my trade-in is worth. I get a feel real quick if the salesman isnt going to play ball. If not I get right up and leave immediately. Theres always one that will.

I do tend to talk to car-salesman friends though. RTQL8 - Ive heard (and seen) the stories and I agree. Most car deals suck even when they look good. I have a VW delaership try "Bush" me awhile back. They didnt know that I would have 7 lawyer buddies on their butts so fast they didnt know what hit them. We got about $6000 off the deal :D

Its a shame what it takes not to get screwed though.

Originally posted by sundevil845
Could you explain where the rest of this money is coming from?

Easy, dealerships have 6 ways to screw you. 1st on the initial sale i.e. selling a 18k car for 19k. 2nd and most popular is Financing this doesn't apply to finance specials but 99% of you don't qualify for finance specials anyway. A normal finance scam looks like this but can get much more complicated i.e. You qualify for 5% at bank B the dealer doesn't tell you about bank B and finances you in house at 8.9% and sells your loan to bank B later. Third. Your trade, also very popular most trades get 20% to 30% below KBB wholesale. They buy below wholesale because most of the time your trades are instanly sent to auction. They only keep and resell the cars they can make a killing on i.e. the ones they get for 10k less than what they can sell them for. 4th Extras Extras Extras you all no about these. 5th Warranty this is pretty huge too and usualy you get the hardest sale pitch right here. The best salesmen are usualy the guys selling the warranties. 6th dealer incentives. Most the time these go to you but if you dont know about them and they sell you without it then guess who gets the money?

So you may have 2 or even 5 of these bases covered and a deal that looks pretty good but the dealer is going to get theirs one way or another and they usualy do it without you ever having a clue.

So back to your question

Originally posted by sundevil845
Could you explain where the rest of this money is coming from?
If the trade is right and the selling price is right that meens they got you with Financing, Extras, Warranty, Incentives. anyone one or all of these options but buy taking the trade out of the equation and selling for market value the cash you carry will get you a good deal

The best way to get a good deal is tuff but fail safe. Sit down and work a deal that puts them in a posistion to screw you with financing always ask about dealer and factory incentives. Go back and forth for a couple hours and keep a close eye on the actual sale price. When it gets as low as humanly possible (ussualy much lower than Invoice) you take financing out of the equation by throwing a wad of cash on the table or showing them a preaproval at another bank. They can't change the price once you agree to it. Its work but a tactic like this could save you thousands and get you a car below dealer cost. Dealers sell below invoice all the time if they think they can make up the cash somewhere else. Its all about the bottom line

Originally posted by sundevil845


I got alot more on trade then I would have selling my old X. The market in Phoenix is sort of flooded with 4x2 Xterras, so I just made sure I knew my numbers before I went into the dealership. Unless you are going to use the 4.9% financing through Nissan(which is a great deal IMHO), I would recommend seeing what a credit union will offer you first. That will give you an idea if the dealership is full of shit or not, since most dealerships use credit unions for their loans anyway. Also, know your numbers before you walk in the door, and stick to your guns the whole time. The other reason to trade, at least here in PHX, is that you only get taxed on the difference in price. If you sell your ride yourself and pay cash you pay tax on the whole truck. If you spend about $23-25K that adds up fast. I paid $373 in tax total on $23K when I got my new truck, if I would have sold it myself and walked in, I would have paid $1771. Make sure you know all the options they try to put on the car and the real price for those options. I found edmunds to be more helpful then Blue book, IMHO.

Good luck, you sound like a person who would really enjoy the X. It is a pretty smooth city ride, I drive 50 miles a day round trip to work, and it is a capable 4x4 with some A/Ts for tires.

Excellent points. I'm planning in using the 3.9% financing Nissan is offering. I found out about it on www.kbb.com and the dealer said it is valid through the end of March.

Trading the vehilce will save me about $1400 in sales tax. Here in TN the sales tax rate is 8.75% (HIGH). If the dealer will give me $16K for my truck that'll be the same as me selling it out right for $17,400. I could probably get $17K for it selling it out right so I come out better trading it.

If they're already offering $15K over the phone, it should be no problem to get $16K in person. I doubt they'll want to lose a sale over $1000, but I could be wrong.

What about the squeeks and creeks? Have any of you guys that have year or two old Xterras had any problems with rattling dashes, doors, speakers, etc??

Thanks again for all the advice.

The Xterra is suprisingly solid and rattle free. Like Brent said, there are some minor squeaks and rattles that can be isolated. I will tell you that it squeaks alot less now than a new GM does right off the lot :) .

ditto here. No squeeks or rattles to speak of and mine has been beet up pretty good. Its as quiet as most cars too road noise was minimal with stock tires

Just to add my 2 cents; here in Ontario the tax rate on a new vehicle is 15%.

Consider yourself lucky if you are paying 8.75%.

SarnX.

As for squeaks and such, I would say my first X was great, almost no squeaks and I beat it up a decent amount.

RticQl8,

I see where you are getting at with the 3K and i think you have some great points, but I still believe if you know you numbers and you don't mind haggling you can trade it to a dealer without getting ripped.

I've got a few squeeks but I know what and where most of them are. Someday I'll get around to tracking them down and fixing them.

The speakers on the other hand aren't very great. Mine are starting to have problems but I do crank the volume high. :)
Upgrade from stock paper to something else when you can.

I got about 50,000 miles on my 2000. It runs great. The leaf springs creak like an old bed but I think it is from trailering and off road. The windows rattle a bit as they arent too solid on the Xterra but all in all it is most satisfactory. My XTerra does regular work duties including towing and carrying a full load often. It is holding together very well. Better than any of the new GM trucks I have owned and leaps and bounds ahead of Fords.
I gotta go with RTIQL8 about dealerships. You can get a decent deal but not a good one even if you are ready. They get you somewhere. But it all comes down to how much your time is worth.........

Im not a hundred percent sure on this but I think in california you have to pay sales tax on the full purchase price with ot without a trade.

Originally posted by RticQl8

The best way to get a good deal is tuff but fail safe. Sit down and work a deal that puts them in a posistion to screw you with financing always ask about dealer and factory incentives. Go back and forth for a couple hours and keep a close eye on the actual sale price. When it gets as low as humanly possible (ussualy much lower than Invoice) you take financing out of the equation by throwing a wad of cash on the table or showing them a preaproval at another bank. They can't change the price once you agree to it.

thats the way i try to do a sale. ask for the best "cash" price. you will probably hear "are you trading in" or "what payments can you afford" before he even says the price. he is trying to feel out the situation. tell him to shut his hole and give you his best price or negotiate that price, then slam him with your ammunition that you got ie: down payment, cu financing, etc. try that, also i love my x and looked at alot of other suv type trucks and found that you get alot for your money with nissan. they were cheaper than everyone else. good luck... :D