Turbo h22a, please take a look.

Ok this will be the last post from me asking any questions about an h22a or a h22a civic swap, i know you've got to be tired of hearing about it, i know i am. I just want to get the swap done and over with. I'll be ordering the engine sunday, along with motor mounts, and axles/shafts. So this is basically my last chance to get it right and get my facts and opinions together. I know i've i asked this before, and believe me thanks for all the knowledgeable information you all have provided me in the past it's been great. My last question i will bore you all with, is other than the reason of the thin cylinder walls and high compression why wouldn't the h22a be a good engine for F/I, assuming i would've have corrected these problems before i went F/I are there any other reasons? (because i would be correcting these problems if i boosted the h22, new sleeves, and rods and pistons) I've also been researching this topic pretty much non-stop since my last post. So please don't think i'm asking questions just to be wasting your time, i've done as much research as google can provide. Also the engine i would be boosting is a 92-95 h22a which i have came to the understanding are closed deck models. (if i am mis-informed please correct me.) The main reasons i have heard about why not to boost a h22a is because it has FRM cylinder walls (fiber rienforced metal, very thin) and high compression. Also everyone tells me why boost it, it has lots of potential being N/A. But the way i see it, the motor has a lot more potential being F/I, i mean am i wrong. I've also heard a closed deck block is better for boost because of the additional strength and support a closed block provides, i wouldn't see why this bit of information would be incorrect, but like i said before, please correct me if i am wrong. But on the downside of having a closed deck, i have heard honda had some overheating issues with the closed deck design, resulting in the open deck design in the newer preludes i believe. Also my goal i am trying to accomplish is a streetable 12 second honda. Also if you don't already know this engine will be in a 96 hatch. I just know that the h22's a supposably a pretty mean motor N/A, i just want to find out how mean of a motor it could be with F/I. Once again, you guys have been a great help and source of knowledge to me, so thanks again.

another reason F/I is not as agreeable with the H22a besides the thin cylinder walls and high compression is the head.. the H22a head does not flow well for a F/I application.. you will see many recommend getting an H23 head and bolting it in place.. adding to the displacement, and also ridding yourself of the vtec w/ F/I discussion.. but you will definitly need the block sleeved, and some lower compression pistons.. the stock h22a block has 10.6: compression in the SiR version, the type S has 11:1 compression.. to be safe I'd bump the compression down to 8-9:1 compression ratio.. with a combination of pistons design, and thicker head gasket.. also not a bad idea to upgrade your cooling system as well. this will reduce overall engine temps.. with a larger radiator, lower temp thermostat, and larger electric fan, also an oil cooler for the engine would not be a bad idea either.. keep the turbo cool, and engine running cooler (just be sure to add enough oil to the system). and yes a closed block is better for boost, because the sleeves cannot "Walk" and warp as easily under high boost.

Ok this will be the last post from me asking any questions about an h22a or a h22a civic swap, i know you've got to be tired of hearing about it, i know i am. I just want to get the swap done and over with. I'll be ordering the engine sunday, along with motor mounts, and axles/shafts. So this is basically my last chance to get it right and get my facts and opinions together. I know i've i asked this before, and believe me thanks for all the knowledgeable information you all have provided me in the past it's been great. My last question i will bore you all with, is other than the reason of the thin cylinder walls and high compression why wouldn't the h22a be a good engine for F/I, assuming i would've have corrected these problems before i went F/I are there any other reasons? (because i would be correcting these problems if i boosted the h22, new sleeves, and rods and pistons) I've also been researching this topic pretty much non-stop since my last post. So please don't think i'm asking questions just to be wasting your time, i've done as much research as google can provide. Also the engine i would be boosting is a 92-95 h22a which i have came to the understanding are closed deck models. (if i am mis-informed please correct me.) The main reasons i have heard about why not to boost a h22a is because it has FRM cylinder walls (fiber rienforced metal, very thin) and high compression. Also everyone tells me why boost it, it has lots of potential being N/A. But the way i see it, the motor has a lot more potential being F/I, i mean am i wrong. I've also heard a closed deck block is better for boost because of the additional strength and support a closed block provides, i wouldn't see why this bit of information would be incorrect, but like i said before, please correct me if i am wrong. But on the downside of having a closed deck, i have heard honda had some overheating issues with the closed deck design, resulting in the open deck design in the newer preludes i believe. Also my goal i am trying to accomplish is a streetable 12 second honda. Also if you don't already know this engine will be in a 96 hatch. I just know that the h22's a supposably a pretty mean motor N/A, i just want to find out how mean of a motor it could be with F/I. Once again, you guys have been a great help and source of knowledge to me, so thanks again.
Thin cylinder wall thing is BS, they are perfectly fine. And yes the H22a has a closed deck. My friend has this setup (95 Civic) and it has never overheated once. Although he did resleeve the motor, but that was just his personal preference. He's had his car turbo'd for a year now, sleeves and lower compression pistons, not even new rods. and has had no problems with the internals at all. But if you have the $ I'd say resleeve the motor anyways, never hurts to be safe. And also definently get rods, because with my friend; this is his weak link if he ever has one. So with these 3 internals, the H22a is a great motor for FI, you will make some serious freaking power out of this monster.

Now on to my opinion on this. I am basing this following opinion both on what I have experienced seeing my friends car as well as what he has told me. First off, he's been using a dinky little T25 turbo on his setup (one of the, if not the, smallest turbos out there). He's pushing 16psi when he goes to the track. Yet he's not getting a whole lot of power out of it. With such a small turbo he ends up dropping off boost somewhere around 6,500 RPMs, and is also making far more torque than horsepower. This also effects his launching ability. With such a small turbo, the turbo spools like crazy right off the bat so his tires just spin like crazy. But anyone who has seen his car at the track both before and after the turbo swap, will tell you that his car was a lot faster before the turbo. Now when he gets a bigger turbo (he'll be doing this this winter), his problems will probably be fixed. And I might change my opinion on things, but from what I've seen now the H22a is definently better suited as a NA motor.

It really depends on how much hp you're looking to get out of the motor. If you're looking for around 250whp then I'd say go all motor. But if you're looking for 300whp+ then turbo is absolutely the way to go. But just keep in mind that the more hp you've got, the less streetable your Civic will be. Though there are bosst controlers available for you to change between how much you boost everyday and at the track. Personally I'd say do the engine swap and get that out of the way first. Drive it around for 9-12 months and see how much faster you really want to go.