Auto Painting Questions

I'm looking to repaint my 88 civic and I'm looking for some tips. Anyone know a good site that gives good info on spraying cars?

Also, as I'm looking for the right equipment, I came across a spray gun from my friend's pawn shop. He gave it to me, but we're not sure if it is for automotive use or otherwise.

It's says 'Thompson Industries Inc.' on it and 'Eletric Sprayit Division' . also says not to exceed 50 psi. Anyone know if this gun is ideal for auto spraying?

Also, since i'm on the subject, I've also got a friend who says she has 8 air compressors and is more than willing to part with one as they were inherited from a relative. What should I look for in a compressor for auto work/painting? Are there electric/propane/gas powered?...and which is most ideal for painting?

Man if you aren't sure about the compressor or the gun you should think about taking it and have a shop paint it.
But if you are set o doing it yourself here is a quick crash coarse.

1. The paint gun is going to run you around $250-$500 some good ones are devillbiss, sata jet and iwata. Personaly I prefer the gravity feed gun.

2. The compressor you choose will need to have at least a 50gal tank. And you will also have to get a dryer and a air pressure regulator.

3. you need to prep the car for paint. Is the current paint in o.k condition? If it is than what you need to do is get some scuff pads and scuff the car until the shine is gone. Then get what they call a 2k primer.
Apply the primer as directed by the store instructions(ask the person you buy it from for instructions). After that you want to get a snding block put some 320 grit sandpaper in it and sand lightly. Then use 500 grit paper until the surface is as smooth as it can get.

4. you are ready to tack the car with a tack cloth and tape it up. Don't for get to clean the surface with some cleaner.

5.then apply your sealer

6. after the sealer you are readly for the base coat of paint you need to apply 3 coats.

7.you are now ready for the clear coat you will need 2 coats of clear. be careful it is very easy to run it.

this is a quick summarized instruction, so you can see it will be more cost efficent to have it painted.

If you live in Ga i can hook you up cheaper than any body shop.
E-mail me if you are interested.

It seems by your instructions, your shop does a thorough job. I can tell you from personal experience with some shops that skip alot of those steps.

I've personally done prep work before and body work, but never really looked at the tools I used, so I don't know too much about the compressor/spray guns, but I've seen the spraying process done before and I know if I had the right tools, I could do the job myself

I know its not the same thing, but I have done furniture finishing which i similar to auto painting in that you have to do multiple coats and prep work to do a proper job of it.

Overall, I'm in over my head a little bit, but I've got 2 cars to paint and I don't make enough money to just pay a shop. I'd rather do it myself just to have the experience too for the future.

If you could though, I'd appreciate it if you could give me some more recommendations on compressors and spray guns as far as what to look for as well as the types that are available or better for auto applications.

I have been practicing painting for about a year now. I have repainted some vehicles and done body jobs also. Personally I think if the car you are talking about means something to you then you shouldnt paint it. If its something you are just going to practice and try to learn on then go right ahead. But It takes ALOT of time and patience. Its fun and rewarding once you learn but if you want to do a good car then I wouldnt without some professional help.

I have gotten acceptable results with some of the "cheap guns". Not show cars by any stretch but even, no runs, or orange peel. Even laid down a good clear coat. One of the guns I got at Walmart for under $50. I orginally got it to use on little jobs like lawn furnature, bicycles, you get the idea. But anyway it worked so well I used it on a couple of auto repairs in the past. I think you can get some good deals at Harbor freight as well. Check their web site. Good Luck.

DON"T FORGET to wear a good respirator.

Resporator? no no no, you want to be seeing the pretty colors while you are painting, keeps mind on something...lol.

oh, ya, pretaining to the question

well i havnet done any body work, but i have parinted fiberglass enclosures with car quality finish.

1. Rough up the fiberglass with 150 grit.
2. Rub down with Tack Cloth, Bondo makes everything...lol
3. Coat of Primer, not just any primer, the color and texture of the primer will affect color coat.
4. Sand with 220grit to get any un-even spots out.
5. Rub with tack cloth
6. Another coat of primer
7. repeat 3-4 untill it gives a primer coat so smooth you almost dont want to ruin it with color.
8. Coat of Color
9. Sand lightly any imperfections
10. Rub with tack cloth
11. Coat of color
12. Refer to 9
13. Last coat of color in your average job, take your time, how this coats determines what your job will look like except for the gloss.
14. very light sanding making it look as good as possible. all clear is going to do is make it glossy. wet sanding with a grit in the 300's is best.
15. Tack cloth
16. First coat of clear, not too heavy, fast, 50/50 spray.
17. sand lightly
18. refer to 15
19. 2nd coat of clear, a little heavyer than the first, but not super heavy, this is your real clear coat.
20. remove imperfections with wet sanding
21. refer to 15
22. Last coat of clear, mainly to remove imperfections, fast and light.
23. wet sand with very high grit. im talking in the 600's or higher. untill you get it smooth as a baby's ass and no runs or cat eyes.
24. buff the shine, ya, you know it, work it...work it.
26. Wax on, wax off, wax on, wax off.

your finished. woohoo.

^^^^Nice Looking box ^^^^

I'm looking to repaint my 88 civic and I'm looking for some tips. Anyone know a good site that gives good info on spraying cars?

Also, as I'm looking for the right equipment, I came across a spray gun from my friend's pawn shop. He gave it to me, but we're not sure if it is for automotive use or otherwise.

It's says 'Thompson Industries Inc.' on it and 'Eletric Sprayit Division' . also says not to exceed 50 psi. Anyone know if this gun is ideal for auto spraying?

Also, since i'm on the subject, I've also got a friend who says she has 8 air compressors and is more than willing to part with one as they were inherited from a relative. What should I look for in a compressor for auto work/painting? Are there electric/propane/gas powered?...and which is most ideal for painting?


Sounds like the gun you've got might be a little more trouble than its worth......you can get a paint gun that’s reasonably priced and that will work just fine, though. Expensive, brand name gravity feed guns are ideal for people who depend on them to perform day- day-out, or who are concerned with productivity- but really, a used siphon feed gun will do the trick. But you HAVE to keep it really clean- particlarly the needle, aircap, and fluid tip. These are pretty much standard components on any traditionally styled paintgun.
When you've found a gun you like- invest in a gun cleaning kit (they’re cheap), and make sure that you have the right wrenches to take the head assy apart for cleaning. Keep an old coffee can or some other metal container around to soak the gun parts in cheap laquer thinner.
Your best bet for a paintgun purchase is a well made used one. No doubt Devilbiss and SATA make top-of-the line stuff, but an old Binks Model 7 will do exactly what you want (these will also spray primer and single stage paint equally well). You can also buy asian made knock-offs of current generation guns. They will also do the job. Ultimately, the outcome of the finish on your car rests with thorough prep work, good spraying conditions, quality paint, and a confident sprayer- and doesn’t depend so much upon using a sophisticated spray gun.
As someone else here also mentioned, you’ll probably need to have a moisture trap or dryer of some kind—you can buy disposable ones at the paint store that thread “inline” where the air hose plugs into the gun body. You can also invest in a remote dryer of some kind- wowo are they expensive. And the cheaper models really don’t work all that effectively. Again, a well made used model could be your best option, if you’re able to find such an item. Your other option is to just go commando- no dryer- and drain the compressor tank OFTEN. There is a petcock at the bottom of the holding tank that will release moisture and other gunk that is being held inside the tank. You will want to open this up while there is pressure in the tank- more frequently if its humid, or when you are working the compressor hard. It either goes on the floor, or it ends up in your paint job.
The type of compressor is up to you. The tank can be as small as 20 gallons, but you will definitely enjoy having a larger tank. It may keep you from having to listen to a hammering compressor motor while you are concentrating on layin’ down some slick coats. I would stick with electric, here (you’ll definitely need a 230V outlet). You can go as small as a 4 hp rating, but as with tank size, this is a matter of bigger is better. Not necessary, but definitely better. It won’t take you long to recognize what I’m talking about- probably in the early seconds after you bring the compressor home and plug it in. The things are LOUD. You may prefer to locate the compressor behind a wall or in its own little structure or shed- just make sure that it gets lots of fresh, cool air. The larger the compressor, the less demanding of a job it has- this will also help contribute to good results. The more frequently a compressor motor runs, the hotter it gets. As the motor gets hotter, so does the air going into the tank rise in temp. As the air becomes hotter, its moisture content will rise accordingly- which can make for annoying little splats in your clearcoat, or weird patches of bumpiness as it tries to evaporate through the drying paint.
When I first started painting at home, I used a 4HP 20 Gallon Craftsman compressor. It ran almost continually while I painted, and barely kept up with a DA sander or airgun, but it did the job. I had some problems with moisture, but nothing that ever ruined a job. It all just depends on how picky you want to be about a first paint job.
Buy what you can afford- you’ll figure a way of working with it, but one thing worth mentioning here; if a compressor is in fact so small that you can’t empty out a full gun cup (or more) at 55-60 PSI without stopping to wait for the compressor- it’s not worth much to you. You will want to be able to make complete, wet coats of paint at a consistent pressure fro good results.

^^^^Nice Looking box ^^^^

thanks, im still ahead by 16 posts.

thanks, im still ahead by 16 posts.


that is cause I fix'em with the first post. LOL

that is cause I fix'em with the first post. LOL

:grinno: :loser: j/k